2000 durango wont stay running
i put a volt meter and im getting 9 from the battery when cars off and on and im getting 9 from the alternator i spliced all wires and checked there good i checked all grounds and positive connections there all good i checks the 140 fuse under hood it looks good i idk what to do could it possibly be the computer im stuck
sometimes my volt gauge will work on the dash and the check gauge light goes off but it doesnt work for long it will go on for a few seconds to a minute and when the gauge stops workin the check gauge light comes on and im throw a P-1495 code
If you are only getting 9 volts the battery is shot. Then you start it and measure between the battery posts and that should get you the alternator output. But sense this is what you have (I hope you are measuring correctly) you have an alternator issue. 11.4 volts is shot and 12.7 volts is a fully charged battery. Alternator output should be 14.4 volts or slightly below that value.
The only other way around this is if the alternator isn't getting the full 12 volts to enact the rectifier bridge from the PCM. Then the output wouldn't be correct. This would be a very abnormal condition.
P1495 Leak Detection Pump Solenoid Circ
Sounds like a emissions issue. Chech your gas cap and your carbon filter lines.
The only other way around this is if the alternator isn't getting the full 12 volts to enact the rectifier bridge from the PCM. Then the output wouldn't be correct. This would be a very abnormal condition.
P1495 Leak Detection Pump Solenoid Circ
Sounds like a emissions issue. Chech your gas cap and your carbon filter lines.
the battery is brand new and i also but a used battery in aswell that i no works, out of another car i have, i changed the alternator 3 times and went over all connections grounds and positives everything seems good maybe i have the meter set to the wrong setting while im doin the volt test i have it set to 300 ~v
Sounds like you may be using the AC setting on the meter as well? You should have a DC range somewhere under 50 volts, preferably something in the 15-20 volt range. If you can't figure it out snap a picture of the front of your meter and post it here.
Bob
I have a craftsman that has the lowest setting of 200V and it works just fine on batteries. As far as more precise settings for measuring volts on auto batteries, who needs to go further than tenths? LMFAO
Well the thing is you get better readings on closer settings, you'll find that in your manual.
The issue here is most likely he in the wrong settings like AC voltage when he needs to be in DC voltage. For instance, on mine I have 2 settings, but I also share those settings with a push button selector between AC and DC voltage not to mention I have a Data Hold selection feature as well that messes with read outs as well.
What I'm getting to is the point that these things are hard enough to understand with people that know how to use them especially with a new one you've never used, let alone a person that does not know how to use them or only uses them occasionally.
The issue here is most likely he in the wrong settings like AC voltage when he needs to be in DC voltage. For instance, on mine I have 2 settings, but I also share those settings with a push button selector between AC and DC voltage not to mention I have a Data Hold selection feature as well that messes with read outs as well.
What I'm getting to is the point that these things are hard enough to understand with people that know how to use them especially with a new one you've never used, let alone a person that does not know how to use them or only uses them occasionally.









