2001 Durango SLT Plus 5.9L

Wow, If I had known this was going to be so much work I might have paid a shop to do it for me. I realized that I had a leak somewhere around the front evaporator unit about 3 months ago. Using my leak detector I got readings of R134A down by the passenger floor-R134A heavier than air. Since that time I have purchased a new evap, receiver drier, refurb compressor with clutch and a complete set of factory service manuals for everything-5 manuals. (I have not bought the expansion valve yet but that is next.) Well silly me decided to take the dash apart to get to the HVAC system and this was 2 months ago. I didnt get very far and got nervous so I decided to put is all back together again---3 hours work..... Well I have been topping up my r134a every two to three weeks and these last few time I decided to get 134a without oil. Well to cut a long story short I ceased my compressor. My bad. I know for sure there is a leak near or on the evap because when I topped up my refrigerant I always noticed some greasy type liquid coming out of the condensate line. Yesterday I decided to take another shot at this project and I have totally stripped her down up front. The HVAC is loose but there is still one bolt in the engine compartment that is still attached and I cant find it. Anyway I have taken everything out of the front and have pictures to prove it and it looks scarey. I am very nervous at this point. I tried to see if anyone else has done this kind of job and cant find anything. Was I supposed to take out the structural support for the dash???? I cant see how I could not but the manuals dont say a thing. They go into great detail about disconnecting the frigging ashtray....with pictures but they (shop manual)also tell you to disconnect two bolts that hold the HVAC in place inside the SUV but forget to tell you its hidden under the structral mild steel support.?! Go figure. They dont show the location of the four mounting bolts inside the engine compartment!!! The third one I found was hidden under a plastic strap. I am taking pictures off all the work I am doing and basically I will send or post this data to anyone that tries to do what I am doing but I dont recommend doing this yourself. I have all the tools to perform ac work but I am no mecahnic or ac guru. I just read alot and have lots of books on the subject. If anyone out there has any pointers I will gladly accept help.
Colin Campbell

 

This job was too easy! Its just alot of work -10 hours from start to cold air coming from the vents. I cant believe how corroded the front evaporator was on a 2001 Durnago. At last, lovely cold air down in Florida is bliss!!! A few pit falls that are worth mentioning here.

1. Use a digital camera and take as many pictures as possible. Take lots of pics of the cabling and where they go. Never force anything. Ofcourse I am not going to mention all the prep work ...like disconnecting the battery and being careful of the air bag etc.
2. Use small plastic poly bags and save all the screws and nuts for a panel and tape the poly bag to the panel that the screws came from. (Very important step) I ended up with 3 extra screws.
3. You need two people to carefully take out the mild steel frame. That is the last thing to come out before you remove the HVAC unit. Try to complete the job as Fast as possible because it starts to oxidize.
4. When you take the HVAC unit apart make sure that you mark the 3 electric motors and also take note of the posisition of the flaps of the air ducts. Take pictures of the position of the plastic gears or mark them- I did both. Now that middle motor needs to come all the way off and a shaft needs to come out before the top of the HVAC will come off- remember, dont force anything. Make sure you take plenty pics of the wiring.
5. Make sure you have a vacuum pump, gauges, R134A, PAG Oil, New Receiver/Dryer, New Expansion Valve, a new reburb compressor.
6. If you need more help please contact me at colin_at_capetronics.com or through this forum. I have met 3 people that own dodges that have had a problem with the evaporator.

Tools..Disclaimer- You can buy everything to do this job yourself from any motor parts store. If something goes wrong I will not be liable for your incompetence or your vehicle or any other cost that may be involved or incurred. This operation is done at your own risk.

 

I'm about to do the same thing... what manuals did you ues and where did you get them?

Thanks

 

I got most of the shop factory manuals from Ebay - there were five of them . I also bought most of the parts from ebay. Alot cheaper than the dealerships prices!!!

Goodluck!

Colin Campbell

 

While you guys are at it, you might as well inspect and possibly change out the heater core! Or else you may need to repeat this process for the heater core!

 

The heater core was in excellent condition. It maybe got used 2 weeks out of the year down in Florida. Thanks for the advice though. I finally let the Durango go and got a new 2006 RAM 1500.

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2006 RAM 1500 Sport Quad Cab 20's HEMI.

 

I'm needing to change my heater core in my 2000 is a 2000 and 2001 the same? I would live to have any pic you might be willing to share and any info you might have on this. I have been looking for someone that has torn down the dash before and cant find anyone so if you could help me out that would be great. Please email me any info that you have or pics you have that might help me out. mscott5@neb.rr.com thanks agin

Mike

 

Hey no problem. I get quiet a number of emails about this job.

Here are some pics. I have over 57 if anyone else needs them. There is one miserable nut in the fire wall (engine side) that you have to search with your hands and its near the top. This is one of of the 3 or 4 nuts that hold the HVAC unit in place. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT your battery before you do anything!!!!!!

Colin

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I will take them all if they will be help full! Thank you so much for all the help

 

That pic of the A/C core look nasty! I wonder if it was a bad core straight from the factory! When I had my heater core replaced, I am soooooo glad that I actually open the box and visibly inspected the core before I left the parts counter! 3 of the 4 cores that the parts guy took off the shelf was crap! First 2 were rusty, and the 3rd one looks like it was installed on a vehicle before. The 4th was the charm, brand new, no rust, in mint condition. So if you get the dealer to perform the work, you may want to make sure and visibly inspect the part and problaby watch them install the part so they won't install a bad part out of the box.