i also found this he didn't say how the belt needs to be ran take the space out between dodge and talk
http://www.dodge talk.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-211002.html

 

Awesome, that's the best clue I've seen on the size I might need. Sounds about right, the stock Dayco belt is 87.6" according to Advance Auto's page.

I noticed in the other thread where WhiteWidow posted a picture of the bypass, that my compressor is on the opposite side of the motor, and Advanced Auto's site says it won't fit the 2003 D/4.7L - of course, I know sometimes you can still 'engineer' a fit. But a shorter belt that works is definitely my preference, least trouble involved and I fully intend on getting a replacement clutch assembly if possible, that way I don't have to mess with the freon lines or that part of the system at all. I don't think it's leaked a drop since I've had it, the A/C's always been top notch in this truck, it will plain freeze me out even on the hottest days.

 

he has a different engine and they make a bypass pulley for the 5.9 and 5.2 i did search for the 4.7 but couldn't find one

 

Same here, I think I'm going to look at the routing diagram (couldn't seem to find one anywhere online) and go with a 82.7" belt and see if I can get it to work.

 

Well, you know it can never be one thing...

Got it towed back and got the belt off, but it won't start - I'm thinking trying to start it seized up might have killed the starter and/or solenoid.

I didn't find a separate solenoid - these are one piece I take it?

It just kind of 'pops' when I hit the ignition, like a low battery would - but I really don't think the battery is anywhere near low, although I might try to jump it in a minute just in case.

Sound like a bad start/solenoid? It seems to be energizing when I crank the key, but the starter's not spinning.

Otherwise, the pulley is *clearly* seized up.

 

Yaay, jump worked

 

Well, tried a shorter belt and for the life of me, I can't figure out how to re-route it to work. If I just skip the compressor, the belt ends up contacting itself on top of the idler pulley, and I'm sure that will burn it up in minutes.

Tried going on the opposite side of the idler, but then the tensioner pulley kinda works in reverse and couldn't hold tension on the belt properly at all.

Kinda stumped on any possible way to re-route it, but maybe I'm just not seeing it. At this point, I might just have to find a way to come up with a bit more $ to get a compressor... that'll be easier I think, lol

 

Isn't there a belt routing label under the hood that shows a re-route with a shorter belt?


*EDIT*-------Just a thought, what if you took the Idler Pulley out, went straight from the crank to the tentioner pulley, around the bottom of the water pump and continue on.

 

Only... for the engines that are NOT 4.7 L - yep, for those it has a dotted 'no-ac' path, but only one route for the 4.7

I thought about routing on the other side of the idler like that Hydra - and tried that, but here's the problem... In order to maintain tension on that belt, the tensioner actually is spring loaded to push in-wards towards the center of the engine - therefore the idler is critical to this concept, since it's the 'counter-balance' in that if you wrap the belt directly around the tensioner it would not be able to keep the belt tension up, but since the idler is there, the inward pull over top of the idler creates the tension... if you follow me there, it makes a bit of a 'S' curve, so the in-ward push from the tension pulls the belt taunt there. It may be possible to route around the A/C somehow - but I couldn't see it... that, of course, doesn't mean it's not possible!!

However; I replaced the Compressor for $214.00 from Kentucky Motors - just did it right. It's purring like a kitten now, hasn't ran this smooth in a while. Now onto my power steering repairs, one of the lines appears to be leaking. It might sound odd, but I think the increased drag from the power steering pump getting low on fluid a few times might have pushed that bearing over the edge.

But I want to thank you all a ton for the help, this forum is one of the best on the web for any subject, and I'm on a *lot* of forums for work, gaming, and hobbies.

I think I might get a new battery too; that little bit of cranking shouldn't have ran that battery down; but I must admit there have been very few times that I've had to crank this D more than once to get it started, it's a great truck.

Only thing that kinda bugs me about it, is every time I work on it, I see a new rust spot - this time it was on the inside of the front driver's side fender right up against a support.

I was thinking about some kind of an under-body coating next year along with some touch-ups on the few rust spots it has. Don't get me wrong, it's not a rusty junker, it's just that they really stand out, even if they are small to me, since it's in such good shape otherwise. Heck, I'd like to do the whole under-body with Por-15, it's something I read a lot of the GM ThirdGen (Camaro/TransAM) enthusiasts use to keep rust at bay.

http://www.por15.com/

Lot of guys on the Third Gen boards swear by for rust stopping. And no, I sold my Trans-Am last year... project cars are just too involved for this old guy with no garage..

BTW: I'd almost recommend having one of those clutch repair kits around if you are going to long-term keep your D up and going guys, considering that - if I would have been able to get one, I could have kept the compressor on and not had to discharge the system, it would have been well worth it. Of course, now I have a new compressor... so, it shouldn't be a problem for 10+ years. But if i ever buy another one that has a similar setup, I might just buy one to have it on-hand. If you notice a 'grinding' or bearing sound coming from around the A/C compressor... order a clutch kit if it's otherwise working well. It would have saved me $200.00, by the time I get done with the shop doing a purge and recharge. Now I just have to find a place that's competent with A/C Service. I worked in a garage long enough to know - they aren't all the same...

 

Glad you got it working OK. JUst a few things to add, most of which you've already figured out.

There appears to be no way to route a belt to bypass the AC compressor on a 4.7. If anybody evere finds a way please post it here! Apparently ALL of the 4.7's have A/C ?

After pulling apart my A/C clutch on the failed unit I don't thing it would be worth the rebuild. I know that there are some of you that'll disagree with me on this, but you need some special tools and a LOT of patience to get it off & then properly setup clearnces on a new one. Besides, you still don't know FOR SURE that your compressor isn't seized also. Spend the extra bucks and replace it.

It appears that compressors for the 4.7 WITHOUT dual cooling are more plentiful in boneyards than ones WITH dual cooling. It also appears that they will bolt up the same, but the line set won't match up to them. Still, if you're stranded somewhere and can't find anything else, it'll get you home! BTW, local boneyard here wanted $165 for dual and $80 for single. I bought new like you did as well.

Venting the coolant while in a parking lot is REAL messy, most likely against EPA regulations, and blows LOT'S of compressor oil all over the front of your motor. Next time I'll bring more rags.....

Bob