Gas Pedal Problem...
Ok guys, as you know, I have been working on my D, trying to do what work I can to it. I have done a tune up, changed the TPS, removed and cleaned the Throttle Body, and an oil change. And I still can't figure out what is causing my D to drop RPMs when I hit the gas initially. I have checked the battery cables and terminals as well as the batter ( replaced battery and terminals and cut the wires to get fresh wires on the terminal) I have posted a video down below so you can see what it is doing. It only does it when it first gets warm. Does it in park, and does it when accelerating from a complete stop in Drive. Btw, I am not holding the gas when it gets stuck at 1500 RPMs
http://youtu.be/-pt-EnLNAs8
http://youtu.be/-pt-EnLNAs8
One Last question, There is a line the runs from the Air Hat to the drivers side of the motor to a little cap, looks like an oil cap but obviously it is not. This cap is loose, and can freely spin around.
#1. WTF is this cap called?
#2 Should I replace it since it is loose?
#1. WTF is this cap called?
#2 Should I replace it since it is loose?
Have some one hit the pedal while you watch under the hood to see if the pedal is in fact sticking. If it does stick, move the linkage by hand and see if it sticks to see if it is the gas pedal.
It sounds like you are describing the PCV valve.
Have you done the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires yet?
It sounds like you are describing the PCV valve.
Have you done the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires yet?
Yes, the Plugs, wires, rotor, cap all replaced. Throttle body cleaned new gaskets on the throttle body both underneath and on top for the air hat replaced. Don't think it is the PCV, I will take a picture and post it in here. Not sure if it is the gas pedal sticking (only name I could think of naming the post. Though the other day, god forbid this EVER happens again, I noticed I hit the gas and infact the pedal did stick and keep me driving at 40mph, managed to slow it down enough to pull on to a side street, flip it in nuetral (as soon as I did that it hit 4500rpms), and shut the engine off.
I popped the hood and started messing with the cables attached to the throttle body, seems the throttle body got stuck, I did notice today after I cleaned it and reattached it, I messed with it for a minute before I started it up, and it does seem to stick a little bit when opening, but it doesn't take much force to unstick it. I am more worried about the drop in rpms when I hit the gas, seems like it wants to stall, but doesn't. If I stay hard on the gas when I first accelerate it will drop in RPMs then literally KICK its self and start moving, I have learned to barely put my foot on the pedal and it reacts better and doesn't drop RPMs.
Instead of a Picture, here is a video:
http://youtu.be/r1MXXUixFhs
I popped the hood and started messing with the cables attached to the throttle body, seems the throttle body got stuck, I did notice today after I cleaned it and reattached it, I messed with it for a minute before I started it up, and it does seem to stick a little bit when opening, but it doesn't take much force to unstick it. I am more worried about the drop in rpms when I hit the gas, seems like it wants to stall, but doesn't. If I stay hard on the gas when I first accelerate it will drop in RPMs then literally KICK its self and start moving, I have learned to barely put my foot on the pedal and it reacts better and doesn't drop RPMs.
Instead of a Picture, here is a video:
http://youtu.be/r1MXXUixFhs
Last edited by TurboStixx; Nov 21, 2011 at 08:07 PM.
Nope, wrong year Turbostixx.
I would index the distributor. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...er-please.html
The "cap" you are referring to is called the air breather. It is a simple 90 degree fitting that the hose from behind the air hat (which is a pre-bent hose only available at the dealer) is attached to. What this does is allow filtered air into the drivers side of the valve cover which is later drawn out under vacuum through the PCV valve on the opposite side of the motor. This way it flushes the accumulated blow by from the motor back into the combustion chambers through the intake manifold.
In 1998-1999 the drivers side is the breather and the passenger side is the PCV valve. When the changed over to the new design in 2000-2003 they changed positions of them in reverse, so that the PCV valve is now on the drivers and breather on the passenger.
What I would do is go to the dealer and get a new pre-bent hose, new breather, and new grommet. Also while your there get a new PCV valve for the other side and grommet. Now when you are taking the breather out it will not want to come because the plastic is brittle and the grommet is hardened. Take your time and bust it out and sure you get it all.
It could be a vacuum issue, so this is why I am also telling you to do this. Also check the vacuum lines especially the one about 3" long sleeve coming off the front of the throttle body (it likes to crack there because of the heat).
Lastly it could be the TPS sensor.
I would index the distributor. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...er-please.html
The "cap" you are referring to is called the air breather. It is a simple 90 degree fitting that the hose from behind the air hat (which is a pre-bent hose only available at the dealer) is attached to. What this does is allow filtered air into the drivers side of the valve cover which is later drawn out under vacuum through the PCV valve on the opposite side of the motor. This way it flushes the accumulated blow by from the motor back into the combustion chambers through the intake manifold.
In 1998-1999 the drivers side is the breather and the passenger side is the PCV valve. When the changed over to the new design in 2000-2003 they changed positions of them in reverse, so that the PCV valve is now on the drivers and breather on the passenger.
What I would do is go to the dealer and get a new pre-bent hose, new breather, and new grommet. Also while your there get a new PCV valve for the other side and grommet. Now when you are taking the breather out it will not want to come because the plastic is brittle and the grommet is hardened. Take your time and bust it out and sure you get it all.
It could be a vacuum issue, so this is why I am also telling you to do this. Also check the vacuum lines especially the one about 3" long sleeve coming off the front of the throttle body (it likes to crack there because of the heat).
Lastly it could be the TPS sensor.
It is possible I got a dud TPS, the one on there now is just under a month old, it did fix the original idling problem when I bought the truck which was the RPMs all over the place, but I guess the TPS could not be working absolutely correctly. I will replace the air breather hose, grommet, and see what I can do. Man, you can only get it from the stealership? That actually kind of sucks. I will check the front vacuum hose in the morning before heading to work. PCV valve, I will try to replace that, if I can't figure it out, I will call a buddy who has helped me a lot with my honda (I can't stand the little thing, but the wife loves it). Im sure he could help, but I am finding I am pretty talented, all it takes is some thinking....and google.
Lastly, guessing the air breather cap is not supposed to be loose, moving all around and can move up about a 1/4 inch adn swing around freely or yes that is normal?
Lastly, guessing the air breather cap is not supposed to be loose, moving all around and can move up about a 1/4 inch adn swing around freely or yes that is normal?
Last edited by TurboStixx; Nov 21, 2011 at 10:56 PM.
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Yes you could have a dud TPS. Did you buy one from the dealer? Because the aftermarket sensors, are nt the great and you have to replace two or three before you get a good sensor.
No I did not buy from the dealership, will replace tomorrow, fixed one problem but I guess not working 100% could let the other problems persist, luckily, still under warranty
Last edited by TurboStixx; Nov 22, 2011 at 12:24 AM.
Thanks for all your replies guys, but I had one more thing to say.
So I heard today, that when the TPS is changed on the D, it needs to go to the stealership and be calibrated. Thoughts?
So I heard today, that when the TPS is changed on the D, it needs to go to the stealership and be calibrated. Thoughts?









