I can give you a rough estimate, I'm doin' valve covers too....

 

Kegger mod takes about 1hr depending on how careful you are. It was worth it too me, nice for towing so far.

 

awesome. thanks. ill probably be doing it next friday then

 

Not looking to start anything but it'll take at least an hour to get the intake cleaned up before you start modding.

You better figure on at least 4 hours start to finish maybe longer if you gasket port the runners and smooth out the injector ports.

 

So in other words you better allow for a total weekend to do everything right and set up times.....LOL

 

Exactly. That's why I always picked up a spare intake manifold and modded it in my spare time and had it ready to install when the old one came off the engine. A big time saver and you can take your time and do the modding right instead of rushing thru it to get your truck back on the road.

 

I did set aside a weekend, I painted the valve covers at the same time. I should have specified that 1hr does not included the tedious cleaning it requires, and I had a parts washer available. I did the fuel ports as well. Now a problem I had it my front 2 intake bolts twisted the head off from corrosion (coolant leak, long story). Penetrating lube and a vise grip took them out, thank god. I would have a new set of intake bolts before you start.

 

Yep!


Classic example of issues that arise because of corrosion of metals around the cooling system and the intake manifold. When you take something out like the intake manifold, there is cooling jackets around those bolts, well if the intake gaskets are slightly leaking then the cooling jackets leak into the bolt holes first, at least from what I have seen.

If the intake manifold is leaking coolant at all, looking at the old intake gaskets and mounting surfaces will show calcium build up around the leaking structure, mainly because of the the mineral content and the heat of the motor boiling the coolant to a point of steam leaving the deposits what ever they maybe.

Seeing these type of structures after removal of said parts should warrant extra precautionary response. Simply meaning there is a weak point here so we better take extra measures that these "special" places have a little extra time in preparation, so to speak.

 

Would you recommend using a thread lock on the plenum pan bolts?
How's the fix holding up ? Do you still have the truck?
I am not getting the aluminum pan, real high import customs fees,
I am about to do the re-seal job on mine due to oil consumption, about 1 quart every 600 miles and have been reading some posts.
The root of the problem seems to be the long OEM plenum pan bolts (torque to yeld) that bottom up without applying the correct torque to the gasket but to the bottom of the holes.
I am keeping the OEM steel plenum pan and plan on checking the lenght of the new bolts that come with the kit I got to make sure the torque will be applied to the plenum gasket. Will be using some ultra-black permatex RTV on both sides of the gasket and some thread lock on the bolts.
I can't get fel pro hope dorman is good...
Any input from people who kept their OEM? Is the aluminum plate really needed?

 

1. No do not use thread lock, just apply a bit of RTV to the end of your threads.
2. Long plenum bots, well I don't know about that. You can check the length when you have it out.
3. Dorman should be fine.
4. No you don't NEED to use a aluminum, I just re-installed my OEM but I use Permatex RTV Copper, it's higher temp and I have had great results from it. http://www.zoro.com/i/G2802633/?utm_...FUVk7Aodo28AOw