Did you try bleeding the brakes? It could also be worn master cylinder seals.

 

Yea the fluid was changed out when I had the new rotors and pads put in. I had them check the seals in the master cyl and I also don't see any leaks there...I am getting confused on this time and time again.
Today it was fine in the morning, I keep the D in the garage and hook up the block heater at night. Drove it 20 miles all was good. Parked it for the day and when I went to drive home everytime I stepped on the brakes it wouldn't brake right, wouldn't brake right...then when I pressed it about 3/4 the way it all of a sudden kicked on hard and turned the abs on...skipping the front and rear tires for 3 sec or so...Almost got reared because of it.

 

Just a question Roller,when you had the brakes done and master checked...do you know if they did the bleed with a DRB? I might be off track on this but if they did just a base bleed that isn't good enough for your ABS...Kinda sounds like you have air in the system and you're compressing it before you're activating your brakes fully..although it's intermittant

 

Thats a good question...I know they opened the valves and poured fluid in while they were open to push and bad fluid out and hopefully keep air out.
Mabey I will just have the brake fluid done again. Just to see if it helps...

 

Hydra,master tech,sharp..they'll chime in. I do know that the ABS has to be cycled with the DRB(or equiv if there is one) in order to bleed the system correctly,the base bleed won't get air out of the HCU so you could be compressing air in there...but,you mention it's intermittantso I'm not totally sure. It's the way you describe it when it happens,it just sounds like you have air in the system...

 

ok here we go........


1) a standard bleed is PLENTY as long as you dont let any air into the system (keep the reservoir full
2) DRBIII is needed to bleed the ABS module of air because it needs to be cycled in order to move the air out, if no air gets into it, no air needs to be bled out
3) i have always done brake bleeds as a 2-man job, one inside working the pedal one going around to open the bleeder valves to move the fluid,
3a) if you have a vacuum bleed kit you may be able to do it alone, but i have never tried it and the 2 man procedure has always worked great for me)

 

The rubber flex lines can start to deteriorate internally and almost swell shut requiring more pedal to come to a stop and can give unpredictable braking performance.

 

Wait...where are these rubber flex lines and can they be replaced with steel lines?

 

They connect from the frame to the caliper. You can't use a solid steel line because of the movement of the front wheel...up, down, right, left. They have to be flexible.

 

Ah, got it...didn't even think about that...
So I may of found something here...I pulled the cap of the master cyl and pumped the brakes while it was off. I was able to pump the brakes 6 times before it wouldn't pump anymore.
Then I turned the D on, and I pumped them 10 or so times.
I went to put the lid back on I noticed the fluid was a 1/4 the way down. It was full before I did all that.
Any thoughts?
Brakes feel amazing now though, I only need to press them mabey 1/4 the way down and I feel it brakeing smoothly. And no lock ups on the way home!