1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

does my 01 durango have ABS in front tires too? need hub bearing replace, help

Old Feb 1, 2012 | 04:37 AM
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Exclamation does my 01 durango have ABS in front tires too? need hub bearing replace, help

hey guys, i found out my hub bearing is bad on my 2001 dodge durango sport and a shop wanted $300 to fix it, man these places are getting crazy.

anyway i took my car out called advanced auto and found that the part cost $65 so im going to do it myself.

BUT, there are two different hub bearings for my dodge durago 2001 sport edition. one bearing with ABS for front and one without ABS in front. and i dont know which one to buy.

the bearing that needs to be replaced is on the front driver side, so i need to know which hub bearing to buy at the store because they seem to not know the answer, but im sure someone here will thanks guys.

also i found this video that seems to show my exact vehicle being worked on but im not sure if it will be the same out lay for my 2001 because on the video he replaces the bearing for a 98

here is the video if you would like to see
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8OVqTcgvS0
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 06:42 AM
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I did my front hubs using this video as a guide and it worked well. As far a ABS your hub will have a wire attached if it is ABS. Just did my brothers 99 F150 with front ABS and U will see a wire if it is ABS. My 99D did not have a wire it was rear ABS only.

Pull the wheel off and take a look.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 09:13 AM
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yeah look for the wire. Also it's generally a good idea to replace both bearings if you're replacing one, because chances are if ones going the second one isn't gonna be too far behind
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 10:35 AM
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It's a relatively easy job to do as long as you can break the bolts free. I'd recommend hitting the three bolts on the hub flange with some penetrating oil now, as well as the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket in place. Then make sure you have a GOOD set of sockets, breaker bar, and offset box wrenches to get these off. Assuming that the truck is 4WD, you'll need to get a socket to remove the driveshaft nut. Be warned that I wasn't able to get a rental one around here, AutoZone set had sizes all around it but none that fit. I ended up buying one for like $15 bucks or so. Make sure you break te axle nut free BEFORE jacking up the truck, you'll need a good breaker and a long piece of pipe.

Don't be afraid to beat on the old hub pretty hard to get it removed, I used a short handled sledge to pop mine out. Clean out any of the rust & scale with some emery cloth before you install the new one, it'll seat easier. Also clean up the threads on all of the bolts.

I always use anti-sieze on the bolts when I put these things back together, but that's my preference. Sure makes things easier to get it apart in the future if you need to.

+1 on replacing them both at the same time. If one side is gone then the other side is probably close. Besides, the second one will install much faster!

All in all, it's a couple hours of work with the right tools.

Bob
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 11:50 AM
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Agree just plan on replacing both. I did not pull the drive shaft off the transfer case like in the video. Just turn the wheels to make clearance. I had a hell of a time with a short sledge trying to beat the hub off. Yes lots of WD40 or PB Blaster for 2 or 3 days in a row before U even start. I ended up using a chisel to separate the hub. A DEEP 32 mm socket is what I think is best. A short will will not work.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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First I always brake the large hub nut free slightly before I take the wheel off so that when I do take the wheel off I simply finish removing the hub nut.

You don't need to remove the CV Half Shaft (axle) to get to the 3 - 22mm bolts. You can just remove them, however you might need a wobbly socket. Then have fun knocking off the hub.

Old school trick number (well I don't know) .....!
You can also use the vehicles steering to hydrauliclly remove it buy leaving the 3 - 22mm nuts in a few turns and placing a bar between the frame and nut head and have someone turn the trucks wheels.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by that_guy
yeah look for the wire. Also it's generally a good idea to replace both bearings if you're replacing one, because chances are if ones going the second one isn't gonna be too far behind
maybe in the past the other owner changed the other bearing because they are not going out no where near the same, one is absolutely fine and the other is making a bad noise when turning one way or driving straight, the only time it stops is when i take a right turn.

im not one to repair parts that are not broken either lol, low on money. im sure you no how it is.

Originally Posted by CtownChris
I did my front hubs using this video as a guide and it worked well. As far a ABS your hub will have a wire attached if it is ABS. Just did my brothers 99 F150 with front ABS and U will see a wire if it is ABS. My 99D did not have a wire it was rear ABS only.

Pull the wheel off and take a look.
thats really my last effort, i dont want to take the tire off until i start to do the job. thats why i was asking here because im sure someone did this exact job and knows if i have ABS in front or not. im surprised no one just has a straight up answer without me having to take the tire off and look. since the video's durango has no ABS in front i am going to assume mine doesnt either and buy the bearing without the ABS wire. if im wrong i am go back and return it.


Originally Posted by Bobman
It's a relatively easy job to do as long as you can break the bolts free. I'd recommend hitting the three bolts on the hub flange with some penetrating oil now, as well as the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket in place. Then make sure you have a GOOD set of sockets, breaker bar, and offset box wrenches to get these off. Assuming that the truck is 4WD, you'll need to get a socket to remove the driveshaft nut. Be warned that I wasn't able to get a rental one around here, AutoZone set had sizes all around it but none that fit. I ended up buying one for like $15 bucks or so. Make sure you break te axle nut free BEFORE jacking up the truck, you'll need a good breaker and a long piece of pipe.

Don't be afraid to beat on the old hub pretty hard to get it removed, I used a short handled sledge to pop mine out. Clean out any of the rust & scale with some emery cloth before you install the new one, it'll seat easier. Also clean up the threads on all of the bolts.

I always use anti-sieze on the bolts when I put these things back together, but that's my preference. Sure makes things easier to get it apart in the future if you need to.

+1 on replacing them both at the same time. If one side is gone then the other side is probably close. Besides, the second one will install much faster!

All in all, it's a couple hours of work with the right tools.

Bob
i do not have four wheel drive 4x4, i have rear wheel drive. does that mean i dont have to do the exact steps thats in that video? because you said if i have 4x4 i have to " get a socket to remove the driveshaft nut" will i need to do this if i dont have 4x4? sorry im not to savy when it comes to what everything is called, but i can follow directions well

Originally Posted by CtownChris
Agree just plan on replacing both. I did not pull the drive shaft off the transfer case like in the video. Just turn the wheels to make clearance. I had a hell of a time with a short sledge trying to beat the hub off. Yes lots of WD40 or PB Blaster for 2 or 3 days in a row before U even start. I ended up using a chisel to separate the hub. A DEEP 32 mm socket is what I think is best. A short will will not work.
wow i hope mine wont be that hard, but with my luck it probably will be, so i use the "DEEP 32 mm socket" while the car is on the ground correct? because in the video the guy uses an impact gun and said if i didnt have one i had to have the car on the ground first.

so what do i do, take the tire off, then take the caughter-pin out of the middle thing "i think called hub" then put the tire back on, put it on the ground, then use the DEEP 32 mm socket to loosen the hub?

PS: i think it is a 33mm socket not 32mm right? thats what they said in the video
 

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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 09:25 PM
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I borrowed one so if the video says 33mm that's it; my memory failed that detail.

and Yes tire off, pull the cotter pin, tire back on. lower vehicle and loosen that 32mm bad boy. then up U go again.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by that_guy
yeah look for the wire. Also it's generally a good idea to replace both bearings if you're replacing one, because chances are if ones going the second one isn't gonna be too far behind
+1. Replace in pairs...pretty easy, only difficult part is gettin the shaft out but it isnt too hard. Replaced mine a year ago and i didnt have the front abs. Bout to change the bearings on a vw next week.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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since these trucks were available with both rear wheel only abs AND 4wheel ABS there are only two ways to figure out which you have.

method one (the simplest IMO) pull the tire off and look for the ABS wire going to the sensor in the hub
method two (takes some time, and a good dealer nearby) visit or call your local dodge dealer with your VIN # and ask for a build sheet, this will list the type of ABS that was on your truck when it was sold.
 
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