Oil Pan Gasket.
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Joined: May 2011
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Oil Pan Gasket.
Okay so my oil pan gasket is leaking right where the tranny meets the motor so in the rear of the motor. Called a few places everyone wanted ATLEAST 5 hours worth of labor($500 just for labor?). Now I've looked at it and it doesn't seem that hard except for the fact that the front diff is right under the oil pan. But it looks like ill have enough room to drop the pan just enough to slip a gasket in there. Anyone done this before? Anything helpful is appreciated.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
No you don't have enough room to drop the pan!
You have to remove the front diff or raise the engine. Now I ran into this problem one time on a different ride and this is what I did, back yard mechanics 101!
1. First off I dropped the pan as much as I could and removed the old gasket.
2. Next my friend had already bought a cork gasket (which I don['t even like), and also you have to understand were were in predicament and his car wasn't worth the gas he had in it!
3. I took the gasket and made a cut in it like this W only sideways. I only cut the gasket in 1 place! I left long tangs on the cut and situated the cut very close to a side bolt that I could get great access to.
4. Cleaned all surfaces with brake cleaner on a rag.
5. Put light coat of Ultra Copper RTV on the block sealing surface and on the pan sealing surface.
6. Coated the gasket lightly with Ultra Copper RTV on both sides.
7. I separated the gasket and wrapped it over and on the top of the pan.
8. I placed a nice glob of sealant to the mating areas and bolted up the pan just till it touched with about 3lbs torque.
9. Drank a few more beers while the gasket sealant dried a little, maybe 1.5 hours.
10. Torqued the bolts down to like 6lbs. Drank more beer for about 1 more hour.
11. Finished torquing to spec's, or again close to it / snug at this point....LOL
12. Let it sit till dark, maybe like another 4 hours and filled the crank case with oil.
13. Started it up and checked for leaks, none!......Not too bad for a bunch of drunks!
You have to remove the front diff or raise the engine. Now I ran into this problem one time on a different ride and this is what I did, back yard mechanics 101!
1. First off I dropped the pan as much as I could and removed the old gasket.
2. Next my friend had already bought a cork gasket (which I don['t even like), and also you have to understand were were in predicament and his car wasn't worth the gas he had in it!
3. I took the gasket and made a cut in it like this W only sideways. I only cut the gasket in 1 place! I left long tangs on the cut and situated the cut very close to a side bolt that I could get great access to.
4. Cleaned all surfaces with brake cleaner on a rag.
5. Put light coat of Ultra Copper RTV on the block sealing surface and on the pan sealing surface.
6. Coated the gasket lightly with Ultra Copper RTV on both sides.
7. I separated the gasket and wrapped it over and on the top of the pan.
8. I placed a nice glob of sealant to the mating areas and bolted up the pan just till it touched with about 3lbs torque.
9. Drank a few more beers while the gasket sealant dried a little, maybe 1.5 hours.
10. Torqued the bolts down to like 6lbs. Drank more beer for about 1 more hour.
11. Finished torquing to spec's, or again close to it / snug at this point....LOL
12. Let it sit till dark, maybe like another 4 hours and filled the crank case with oil.
13. Started it up and checked for leaks, none!......Not too bad for a bunch of drunks!
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
Well I agree, however in a bind with a POS car? We took care of the 2 quart a day spillage......LOL
Funny thing was it didn't spill a drop after that, but I lost track of him about 8 months later, so who knows?
Funny thing was it didn't spill a drop after that, but I lost track of him about 8 months later, so who knows?