1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Synthetic Oil Change Advice

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 04-15-2012, 11:12 AM
that_guy's Avatar
that_guy
that_guy is offline
Champion
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA or Columbia, SC
Posts: 4,098
Received 44 Likes on 43 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mikeismadness
It's more than just a myth, bought a vehicle a few years back, owner had just done a Dino oil change, so I switched it at 3,000 to a Mobil one full synthetic, and gained leaks. Valve covers, rear main, and timing cover. If there were no leaks before, then why all the sudden leaks after I switched? You can't call it 100% yes or no with that, seems like it depends in the motor and how good the seals are

That's why I use high mileage part synthetics (they have chemicals in there that are supposed keep old oil seals from leaking) because I've heard all kinds of stories about oil seals leaking after switching to full synthetics.


BTW: it looks like professor hydra is on a roll today
 
  #22  
Old 04-15-2012, 12:05 PM
samnbensdad's Avatar
samnbensdad
samnbensdad is offline
Captain
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 682
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Such a touchy subject. LOL. Here is something to keep in mind when deciding how often to change... Who is telling us to change every 3k miles? ... It's the oil companies. The frequency of our oil changes directly impacts that division's revenue. The oil industry is a volume business, not straight margins. How do they accomplish this? Fear. It's Marketing 101, folks.
 
  #23  
Old 04-15-2012, 12:14 PM
Ohio Mossy Oak's Avatar
Ohio Mossy Oak
Ohio Mossy Oak is offline
Amateur
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Born,raised and currently reside in eastern Ohio
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Magda7290
Ok, well considering my D does not sit around, since it is used roughly once a day to drive around town, with a rare appearance quickly on the highway, I should probably go with the 1 year interval on my Mobile 1 Extended Mileage Synthetic Oil? Since at the 6 month mark I have only reached 4,000 miles, I will probably hit the 8,000 mileage mark within that 1 year as well.
I took the original post to mean your D does sit around...Either way,if you like a full synthetic an dont mind close to 30$ a jug..I do think the Extended performance Mobil I would be good
 

Last edited by Ohio Mossy Oak; 04-15-2012 at 12:36 PM.
  #24  
Old 04-15-2012, 07:05 PM
mikeismadness's Avatar
mikeismadness
mikeismadness is offline
Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Im sure using full synthetic with this owner once a year oil change will work great for him.
 
  #25  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:10 PM
hydrashocker's Avatar
hydrashocker
hydrashocker is offline
Hall Of Fame
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Riverton, UT
Posts: 14,228
Received 17 Likes on 16 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by DomsDodgeDingo
Using an oil like Mobil 1 Extended Performance, which is rated for 15,000 mile oil changes then changing it every 3000 is pointless, unless you have issues or something. I change mine every 10k with no problems. The new Porsche's say 12k mile oil change interval. And thats in a high performance engine. 3000k miles is WAY outdated. BTW I switched to synthetics with 200k miles on the clock and had no problems. No leaks. Nothing. The "Dont use Synthetic in high mileage vehicles" theory is a myth to. If you already have leaks with regular Dino oil, your gonna have leaks with synthetics.
There ya go thinkin again......

The reason Porsche states to use 12k intervals is because they are using European Fully Synthetic oils, not what you are buying here in the USA. Yes, there are 2 different type blends, and in that I mean Fully Synthetic blends. And it is not a new thing, it's been around for a while.

The other reason that they can go a longer interval is because they use different weights of lubricants then what we use. Different weights have different properties and searing factors.

Further they have a lot closer tolerances in the build of their motors then we do. For instance a main bearing journal, here in the USA on lets say a Ford might be .006 variance, yet their motor is closer to .002 tolerance, with in detail needs the use of lighter oil and less ware accumulated. Then you add in the metal being used, which is different then here.

See there is a heck of a lot of differences in your "simple explanation", but when you actually take a closer look at things, well there is a lot more going on behind the curtains.

In fact I believe the new BMW's over there are rated up to 12K or 15K, but again, they are 2 TOTALLY different things then what you have here.

But as for a notion that a blend can go longer in change intervals over a true Polly Base is just nonsense, a blend is "blended" with Fully Synthetic and base oils, and this basically creates an oil that should be better then Conventional, yet not as good as Fully Synthetic (Polly). Yet the generic idea is nothing but a sales pitch, and I say this respectfully. See the difference is in the base, one is processed more then the other, so to take a lower processed base and mix it with a high processed base you end up with medium-low base. The reason I say medium low base, instead of medium, is because the process is just sooooo much inferior to make a Polly base (High). Then to actually contaminate the pure Polly base with a conventional, well that is just plain stupid! Not only that, but at which percentage are they "Blending". See it's nothing but a sales pitch.

It's really a no brainer! You are simply wasting money on the 15k High Mileage Extended Performance. The only thing you get with an High Mileage is slightly better viscosity improver, and slightly better seal improver, but I mean slightly. Other then that it's nothing.

Now I use Mobil One Fully Synthetic High Mileage 10W-30. The reason I use the High Mileage version is I have seen less vaporization and better hot end performance because of blow buy from warn rings. I tow with my trucks (severe duty) and that is why I use it, besides it does have a bit better seal revitalize properties. I still change my oil out every 5K, and it is darkened when I do. I know for a fact (because I have done the testing personally) that my engine is covered.

If your manual states 3k intervals, then you can step it up to 5k intervals, but the same contamination warnings apply if contaminated with the use of Mobil One FS 10W-30 or Mobil One FS 5W-30. If your manual states every 5k for your driving style then you can step it up to 7500 mile intervals, again contamination rules still apply. The reson for this is again because of the better and smoother base oil and better blend of improver in the Mobil One Fully Synthetic (FS) over conventional oils.

t's more than just a myth, bought a vehicle a few years back, owner had just done a Dino oil change, so I switched it at 3,000 to a Mobil one full synthetic, and gained leaks. Valve covers, rear main, and timing cover. If there were no leaks before, then why all the sudden leaks after I switched? You can't call it 100% yes or no with that, seems like it depends in the motor and how good the seals are
Mike is right for the most part, it depends on what you have. Also know that seal for older type engines use all sorts of things like certain silicone, cork, and even leather. These gasket materials cannot hold up the the detergents in Fully Synthetics and the lubricate will actually cause the gasket to fail. In the newer cars, well they are built with new gaskets able to withstand the Fully Synthetic lubricants. Now in Mikes case, the motor could have been an older build, or maybe a newer engine with cheap gaskets, basically a rebuild but with skimped on gaskets materials that could not handle the detergents and leaked, whatever the reason is.
 
  #26  
Old 04-18-2012, 12:33 AM
mikeismadness's Avatar
mikeismadness
mikeismadness is offline
Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by hydrashocker
There ya go thinkin again......

The reason Porsche states to use 12k intervals is because they are using European Fully Synthetic oils, not what you are buying here in the USA. Yes, there are 2 different type blends, and in that I mean Fully Synthetic blends. And it is not a new thing, it's been around for a while.

The other reason that they can go a longer interval is because they use different weights of lubricants then what we use. Different weights have different properties and searing factors.

Further they have a lot closer tolerances in the build of their motors then we do. For instance a main bearing journal, here in the USA on lets say a Ford might be .006 variance, yet their motor is closer to .002 tolerance, with in detail needs the use of lighter oil and less ware accumulated. Then you add in the metal being used, which is different then here.

See there is a heck of a lot of differences in your "simple explanation", but when you actually take a closer look at things, well there is a lot more going on behind the curtains.

In fact I believe the new BMW's over there are rated up to 12K or 15K, but again, they are 2 TOTALLY different things then what you have here.

But as for a notion that a blend can go longer in change intervals over a true Polly Base is just nonsense, a blend is "blended" with Fully Synthetic and base oils, and this basically creates an oil that should be better then Conventional, yet not as good as Fully Synthetic (Polly). Yet the generic idea is nothing but a sales pitch, and I say this respectfully. See the difference is in the base, one is processed more then the other, so to take a lower processed base and mix it with a high processed base you end up with medium-low base. The reason I say medium low base, instead of medium, is because the process is just sooooo much inferior to make a Polly base (High). Then to actually contaminate the pure Polly base with a conventional, well that is just plain stupid! Not only that, but at which percentage are they "Blending". See it's nothing but a sales pitch.

It's really a no brainer! You are simply wasting money on the 15k High Mileage Extended Performance. The only thing you get with an High Mileage is slightly better viscosity improver, and slightly better seal improver, but I mean slightly. Other then that it's nothing.

Now I use Mobil One Fully Synthetic High Mileage 10W-30. The reason I use the High Mileage version is I have seen less vaporization and better hot end performance because of blow buy from warn rings. I tow with my trucks (severe duty) and that is why I use it, besides it does have a bit better seal revitalize properties. I still change my oil out every 5K, and it is darkened when I do. I know for a fact (because I have done the testing personally) that my engine is covered.

If your manual states 3k intervals, then you can step it up to 5k intervals, but the same contamination warnings apply if contaminated with the use of Mobil One FS 10W-30 or Mobil One FS 5W-30. If your manual states every 5k for your driving style then you can step it up to 7500 mile intervals, again contamination rules still apply. The reson for this is again because of the better and smoother base oil and better blend of improver in the Mobil One Fully Synthetic (FS) over conventional oils.



Mike is right for the most part, it depends on what you have. Also know that seal for older type engines use all sorts of things like certain silicone, cork, and even leather. These gasket materials cannot hold up the the detergents in Fully Synthetics and the lubricate will actually cause the gasket to fail. In the newer cars, well they are built with new gaskets able to withstand the Fully Synthetic lubricants. Now in Mikes case, the motor could have been an older build, or maybe a newer engine with cheap gaskets, basically a rebuild but with skimped on gaskets materials that could not handle the detergents and leaked, whatever the reason is.

Just an old motor haha

Hydra is right with this oil talk, and I'm damn glad I have read that explanation of oil a couple times now
 
  #27  
Old 04-18-2012, 06:11 PM
hydrashocker's Avatar
hydrashocker
hydrashocker is offline
Hall Of Fame
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Riverton, UT
Posts: 14,228
Received 17 Likes on 16 Posts
Default

LOL

Throughout the years here I have posted up many threads regarding lubricant issues, however there is still a lot of scepticism and miss information out there, not to mention a lot of biased as well as uneducated guessing. I have posted up MANY things to correct people or just explain issues that arise during everyday talk, nice to see some people pay attention!.....

Opinions are great if backed with solid information.
 
  #28  
Old 04-18-2012, 11:58 PM
megatron96541's Avatar
megatron96541
megatron96541 is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Well I change my oil every 3000 miles and I use Mobil one full synthetic. However, I blow all of you all out of the water when it comes to my driving needs. In the past year I've put roughly 26,400 miles on my rig. So, I'm quite ok with paying what I pay to change my oil that frequently.
 
  #29  
Old 04-19-2012, 12:34 AM
mikeismadness's Avatar
mikeismadness
mikeismadness is offline
Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

26,000 a year is a lot! Haha. And yes hydra, I pay attention to what ya say. I'm on this forum to help and be educated in the things I dont know, do listening to others with information seems to be the right thing to do
 
  #30  
Old 04-19-2012, 09:03 AM
shrpshtr325's Avatar
shrpshtr325
shrpshtr325 is offline
THE ULTI-MOD
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Union NJ
Posts: 19,794
Received 34 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

megatron, you drive the same kind of mileage that my father does (he does 25-26k a year), and we haul with his truck frequently, it still gets oil changes at 5k miles with dino oil its 2 years old and has 53k on it.
 


Quick Reply: Synthetic Oil Change Advice



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:12 AM.