hey guys im having trouble trying to pick the right exhaust system for my rig i want it to sound veryy deep like a monster, but yet, not kill the neighbors and my 4 year old in the back seat. I'm not a kid looking for HOLY **** THAT'S LOUD im looking for damn that tuck sounds really good.. And also ne tips on Throttle body whistle sound or what to use.

I cleaned mine completely out total about 4 hrs holding the body and cleaning it sounded like a semi with out the air hood on but whistled for about 3-4 days than stopped i checked it, and its still very clean idk im new guys with the durango so ne tips, help, mods, with sound would be cool and thanks..
I losing my head at 4am i need to be out in the garage haha

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Im Throwing 2 codes at the moment as well
P0545- A/c Clutch <--- is bad what to do with it all
P0138 < --- 02 sensor which is bad? theirs two of them
along with these two codes my (ABS) and E Brake light apper on dash but brakes are fine and don't show a code for them?


sorry for the 4 questions thought i would ask ne ways seeing i read every thing first

1998 Dodge Durango 5.2L V8, 318 SLT

 

I think the Flowmaster Super 40 would be a great muffler for you. It has an excellent sound to it but wont make you neighbors want to kill you. P0138 would be the post-cat O2 sensor which is the 2nd one behind the catalytic convertor. When you replace it DO NOT use Bosch! I would highly recommend Denso. You can get them very cheap at Amazon for $30 and free shipping. That where I bought mine. As for the ABS light...It could just be a bad connection or something. I thought P0545 was the Exhaust gas temperature sensor 1 circuit low voltage.

 

i did magnaflow 3" cat back sounds awesome

 

Manga flow or flow master 40 or 44 would be perfect for ya

 

I'm happy with the fm40. The ABS and brake light being on could be a variety of things, first check out the brake fluid level. A low level indicates pad wear or a hydraulic leak. If the lights are related and it is purely an ABS issue you need to get a meter and test the wheel speed sensors. You do that by lifting the axle off of the ground and unhooking the ABS connector, put one test lead on each terminal and spin the wheel. The faster you spin the wheel the higher the ac voltage should go. also check the sensors resistance while the wheel is still. You will need to look up the spec for the resistance but a good rule of thumb is that the sensors are going to be around the same resistance value. If the resistance is good and there is no ac voltage the sensor may be pushed out? I'm not sure if the ABS sensors are serviceable by themselves or not on the D. If someone could chime in to confirm that would be awesome.
If the a/c clutch is bad you would be better off replacing the compressor rather than attempting to replace the clutch if you don't get the seal installed right you will end up with a leak. Get the system recovered and charged at a shop and do the rest of the labor yourself. you won't be charged for the freon that the shop recovers only what they add on top of that if your charge is low.

 

ABS can be metal particles on sensor in rear. Mine has been the case. Wear and tear. Clean and replace.

 

Stock pipe with 40 is simple and sweet. Not enough, up rear pipe size. Deltas resonates less inside. 50 less noise same tone.

 

Thanks guys will check them out and for the codes n stuff I'll check abs sensors and clean first then go from their and replace compressor ac

One thing at a time haha I'll get their Thanks again will keep you posted

 

Gonna go with fm44's haven't had no time to check on the truck yet

 

most of your stuff has already been answered

but for the abs/brake lights being on the most common cause is the speed sensor in the rear differential having gone bad