I noticed that my brakes dont always stop on a dime anymore i really have to press them down sometimes when i do i fill something click then my abs and brake light goes on but once i stop the car it goes away util i have to apply the brakes really hard to stop. I have a 2001 durango can any one tell me if they had this problem before and the soution

 

Same thing here in my 2000. At low speeds, such as 25-35 mph, relatively light pressure on the brakes will trigger the ABS to kick in. I don't see the ABS light on the dash come on though. Nor has it happened at freeway speeds.

 

I had a similar problem for a while. Eventually the cause got worse to the point where it presented itself. The problem ended up being that my left rear wheel cylinder had a slow leak in it and was slowly soaking the brake shoes in brake fluid and causing them to get grabby. It eventually got to the point where as soon as you touched the brake the abs would kick in and leave the back with no braking power. I pulled the abs fuse and then tried the brakes and the left rear wheel would lock up as soon as I'd hit the brakes.

More than likely that will be your problem. If it is you will need to replace the wheel cylinders and brake shoes on both sides. I'd also recommend replacing the springs and self adjust mechanisms while your at it. Luckily the rear brake parts are cheap. Pair of shoes is $20, wheel cylinders are $10 each, and the spring kits with self adjuster $10 a side. Those are the prices at autozone, but if you get it from rock auto it will be even cheaper.


Update:

Just remembered something from when that happened to be. Don't buy the brake shoes from autozone. Their shoes were too thick and I had to spend hours filing them down so that they weren't dragging (even with the shoes adjusted in as far as possible.) Get the shoes from napa and save yourself a bit of time there, but everything else you can get at autozone.

 

Thanks for the clue. I'll check for brake fluid in the morning.

I don't buy much from Kragen, Autozone, Pepboys etc. but fluids. Had enough Brazilian and Mexican made starters and alternators that don't work, fit, or fail early.

 

I had a similar situation. Both the brake light and the ABS light would come on. At first, sometimes randomly after driving, and sometimes as soon as I started the car. After a few years it was constant. Dealership told me it was my ABS control module and wanted $325 for a new one so I told them to take a leap.

I drove it that way for a few years because the brakes were good and solid and the ABS still worked.

Finally, one day I read here on this forum to change the RWS sensor in the top of the rear end and bingo, problem solved. There's another sensor in the transmission that can maybe cause the same problem but in my case it was the sensor in the rear end.

It was cheap and easy to get to to change...probably a lot easier than brake work. By the way, you can see if you have a leak easily...if there is fluid dripping into the backs of the wheels and down the tires. Check your fluid level in the master too. If it never changes you don't have a leak and the brake light won't come on if it's a fluid level issue until the fluid level drops to almost empty.

 

The speed sensors would probably be a good place for the op to start.

As for the leaking wheel cylinders, I never noticed brake fluid dripping out of the drum, but that's not to say that it wasn't. I'd still say to take off the drum and check on things.

The brake work wasn't difficult. I would have been done in a hour if it wasn't for autozones ****tacular shoes, but I'm shure changing that sensor probably is easier.

Also make sure you rear brakes are adjusted properly if you're having a lot of pedal travel.

 

Recently fixed the same problem on my 01 4.7L SLT. Tried the rear speed sensor first (kind of worked initially). Ended up taking the ABS module out and sending it to Module Masters for a re-build. They charged $130.00, turned it around in 2 days and it works like new. VERY HAPPY with their service! Beats the cost of a new module by far. The website has specific instructions on what module to look for and how to prep and ship it.

http://modulemaster.com/en/index.php

Dave

 

I am having a similar problem with my 2001 5.9L R/T. My issue though is it sounds like the left rear drum is dragging or scrapping. And when I depress the brakes they seem to lock up and make the tires chirp, mainly at slow speeds. I don't have to depress the brakes very far to make it happen. The brakes are very sensitive to the pedal being pushed. It doesn't take much pedal force to engage the brakes

Yesterday the ABS and Brake lights flashed for a second and then went out.

I have no idea where to begin trouble shooting the brakes. My father-in-law pretty much replaced both rear drum assemblies and the front calipers. Haven't noticed any leaking in the brake system, and the fluid level seems to have remained constant.

Any suggestions?

 

I'm having the same lights come on randomly as well, I'd be shocked if the brakes are leaking, as the brakes were checked and the front pads and rotors replaced by the dealer before I bought it the day after Christmas. But we are bleeding the brakes and checking everything soon, probably replacing the front pads as I just don't like them, or the dust that so quickly collects on my wheels. Mom and dad's had the sensor go bad, did the same thing, I'll probably replace mine too.

 

I have the same problem, the brake light and the ABS light both come on randomly. I have over 110,000 miles on the truck and have replaced the from brakes at least 5 times and the rear brakes look like new shoes. My brakes feel like I don't get much out of the rears. I'll probably try replacing the sensor in the rear differential to get the light to go off. I have adjusted the rear brakes 8 to 10 times over the years and when I replaced the differential pinion bearing and rear bearings I checked to make sure the rear brakes were actuating upon application and all appears to be good. I was wondering if anyone out there has had a similar problem and what the solution was. Master cylinder, diverter valve?