I found the thread. Dodge won't fix or acknowledge the problem because it's not a safety issue. But it has become one when your truck starts chugging on the highway! I live in KS and mine didn't get real bad until it started getting real hot here.
It's under 2000 4.7 common 02 problem.

I don't know how to link the thread.

 

Guy 1 says:
It's a $10-$15 switch threaded into a power steering pressure hose just below the power steering fluid reservoir on the driver's side of the engine near the front. Look at the reservoir cap, slightly to the right (facing the front of the engine), and down a few inches. Unplug the 2 wire connector, then hold the boss the switch is screwed into with one wrench and turn the switch with another wrench. When it comes loose, plug the opening with a finger so you don't drain all the fluid and quickly screw in the new switch. 5 minute fix, then have someone clear your trouble codes.

Guy 2 says:
Check to see if you have excess air pressure inside the reservior. I removed my cap and had alot of air blast out the top which made me wonder how air was entering the system. Found fluid had leaked through the sensor and into the connector. If fluid can go out then we know air can enter so had to replace the sensor and went ahead and changed the fluid while I was at it. Disconnected the neg battery terminal to reset the codes and everything is running great!.

 

the power steering pressure switch is known to leak into the harness however just replacing the sensor isnt enough, you also must clean the harness of any fluid in order to stop it from leaking into the O2 sensor plug some more and causing another short.

 

Ok, I looked at the ps/switch and it's not leaking and there's no pressure build up. I haven't driven it today though. But wouldn't it have fluid on the switch if that were the problem? What do I do now?

 

The bag of ice trick is a great way to test & yet return home without a tow truck.
This is what I recently did for a friend as she felt to unsfe to drive her 99 Durango after a few stalls & over a $1000 at the dealer to hear them tell her they could not find a problem.
I drove her Durango on the interstate about 12 miles & thinking it was not going to stall out on me I was going to get off on the next exit. Before I made it the next mile it sure enough stalled out.
I had brought a cooler & a bag of ice. I could not place my hand on the Engine computer as it was to hot, which should not be.
I place the bag of ice on the ECM & in minutes tried & it started just fine. I went another 6 miles & stalled again.
One thing to note is that by driving on the interstate & allowing it to stall & coast to a stop safely, I was able to allow it to cycle & in the odometer I would get the No Buss reading, which indicates the engine computer failing. Once you turn off your key & turn it back on you do not get the reading any longer.
So if stall outs ar ein city traffic going slow speeds, other than being dangerous, the key is typically shut off to soon to get the No Buss reading.
The bag of ice cooling the engine computer worked the 4 or 5 times it stalled allowing me to get back safely.
I have ordered one from a salvage yard. will be in on Tuesday, 8/21/12.
I have used ones form the salvage yard on Chrsylers & a few other autos with success & no need to have it flashed providing you get one with the same P/N, (part number) & this is found on the computer.
Some salvage yards will tell you only the last 2 letters are needed for one to work. This is true if you are going to have it flashed at a dealer which cost another, I have read $400 or more. If going to pay this amount I would buy a re-manufactured one where they flash it for you based on your vin # & milage for less money.
I will post back next week after I have installed the salvage computer & had time to test drive it enough to ensure it works.
Good luck with your's!

 

But mine starts immediately after. And doesn't die until I come to a stop.

 

I hope this thread helps somebody. I am now checking for a vacuum leak. If I find one I will post it. After that if it's still stalling, I am going to replace the MAP sensor. I'll keep posting until I get my truck figured out. I refuse to spend money at the dealership!

 

I am unsure of how to email you thinnenkamp. Could you just post it on here so I can fix it? The last time it quit on me was Monday. Has ran like a top since but I know it will rear its ugly head again soon! Thanks so much....

 

That is mine too...it starts immeadiately after after cranking for a few seconds and will run fine....like it never even happened! It just lasts a few seconds..the rough running after the stall. So crazy! I would think if it was from overheating, it would only get worse the more you drive it because it would seem to get hotter under the hood.

 

I have been told to clean the MAP sensor too....I want to try all the cheapest routes first but like I said, it has ran fine for close to a week!