Intermitent Stalling Issue
Okay...I have read all your posts about the PCM. If it was damaged during the hot weather, would it cause it to do it now when the weather has been cooler here also? Or if it was just due to it overheating, would it still only do it when it was hot? It has ran fine and not stalled once since that one time on Monday but the scary part is I never know when it is going to do it!!?!?!? It will always start back up (so far at least) but it just cranks and cranks for about 5 seconds until I pump it a little or about 10 seconds if I do not touch the gas at all. Thanks again guys for all your input!
I noticed something in this post of yours.
"It will always start back up (so far at least) but it just cranks and cranks for about 5 seconds until I pump it a little or about 10 seconds if I do not touch the gas at all."
This makes me re-think the issue. It could be that you fuel pump is overheating and this could cause your issues, especially if you are running under 1/4 tank of fuel. Fuel up to about 1/2 to 3/4 tank and see if the issue stops, if so keep that much fuel in the tank.
See, in-tank fuel pumps actually use the fuel around them to keep the pump cooled off. If the pump is starting to show it's age then it is really susceptible to overheating conditions. Also bad fuel or watered gas can cause this. Try a different gas station, one that goes through a lot of fuel and don't get gas while the station is being re-fueled. While it is being re-fueled crap stirs from the bottom of their tanks and into yours.
One thing you can do is if it dies on you again pull over to the side of the road and turn off your ignition. Open your hood and on the drivers side fuel rail is a port with a plastic cap on it, about over top to #2 cylinder. Remove the cap and there is a little valve on it like for your tire pressure. Depress this and see if fuel sprays out or not. Be very careful not to spray your eyes! If fuel sprays out hard then your fuel pump is good, if not then it's your fuel pump.
This port is where a mechanic hooks up a fuel pressure tester to. If you have it tested make sure they test it at idle and at high sustained RPM and stay over 49-50 psi. I like 50 PSI.
Also could be a coil, but PCM or fuel pump sound more feasible.
And MAP sensor is high on my list of things to try next. Good luck to you too!
Hydrashocker....I had a brand new Delphi fuel pump installed after the crank trigger sensor and coil didn't fix it because the fuel pressure gauge my mechanic had hooked up to it was taking dips in the pressure. That was like a month ago. Thanks so much to all of you for taking the time to post possible fixes and advice on here for me!
Hydrashocker....I had a brand new Delphi fuel pump installed after the crank trigger sensor and coil didn't fix it because the fuel pressure gauge my mechanic had hooked up to it was taking dips in the pressure. That was like a month ago. Thanks so much to all of you for taking the time to post possible fixes and advice on here for me!
Okay....I made my Durango stall again on Monday....a week after it stalled last time. I just left it sit and idle for about 45 minutes and it did it. The PCM was so hot I couldn't even touch it. It started up again about 45 minutes later (I didn't have a bag of ice at the time) and it has drove fine since but the hot weather is coming! It did give me a check engine light though this time and I had my mechanic put it on the scanner on it and it came up with an evap code which he said wouldn't make it run like it is.....that a faulty PCM could cause a faulty code though. So...I have ordered a PCM and it should be here Friday. My question is now is it just a simple unhook the battery, unplug the PCM and put the new one in or is there more to it? It's coming already programmed with my VIN and mileage. Thanks again for all the advice!
Okay....I made my Durango stall again on Monday....a week after it stalled last time. I just left it sit and idle for about 45 minutes and it did it. The PCM was so hot I couldn't even touch it. It started up again about 45 minutes later (I didn't have a bag of ice at the time) and it has drove fine since but the hot weather is coming! It did give me a check engine light though this time and I had my mechanic put it on the scanner on it and it came up with an evap code which he said wouldn't make it run like it is.....that a faulty PCM could cause a faulty code though. So...I have ordered a PCM and it should be here Friday. My question is now is it just a simple unhook the battery, unplug the PCM and put the new one in or is there more to it? It's coming already programmed with my VIN and mileage. Thanks again for all the advice!
Thats it... just unplug the battery, unhook the old PCM put the new one in, plug it up and connect the battery.
So after doing that...it should start and run fine from the get go? I have read about it having to "re-learn" stuff about the vehicle somewhere. Also, I have a remote control start system....will that be okay with the new PCM?
the remote start system could be the cause of your PCM failure (they cause all sorts of electrical problems in these trucks), but if not it will be fine.
there is a relearn period for the PCM after being disconnected, but you will likely not notice it and you can start and drive it immediately after reconnecting the batteryl.
there is a relearn period for the PCM after being disconnected, but you will likely not notice it and you can start and drive it immediately after reconnecting the batteryl.
Uh oh....you mean after all this money I have put into it, it could have been the remote start all along!?!?!? Would that cause the pcm to get so hot, after sitting and idling for 45 minutes this last time before it quit, that I couldn't even touch it a second?










