Oil Pump replacement?
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Oil Pump replacement?
OK, so after hours in front of this screen, i need a straight answer from someone who has actually replaced one(oil pump).
do i need to drop the pan or is removing the front cover, timing assembly and harmonic balancer enough?
i just replaced both heads in my garage and was under the impression that you almost had to pull the motor to get to the oil pump in towards the back of the engine, but now i am to understand its right behind the front cover and and can be accessed from there.
so whats the deal? pan or no pan?
do i need to drop the pan or is removing the front cover, timing assembly and harmonic balancer enough?
i just replaced both heads in my garage and was under the impression that you almost had to pull the motor to get to the oil pump in towards the back of the engine, but now i am to understand its right behind the front cover and and can be accessed from there.
so whats the deal? pan or no pan?
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Buffalo, NY
You need to remove the pan otherwise there's no way to get the pickup tube off the pump. When you replace it make sure you inspect the pickup tube closely, mine had a crack on the top of it that allowed air to enter the pump.
Are you sure the pump is bad? Check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge first. Blockage can also occur near the timing chain tensioners that will prevent the timing chain from getting enough oil, causing noise / wear.
Why did you replace the heads?
Are you sure the pump is bad? Check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge first. Blockage can also occur near the timing chain tensioners that will prevent the timing chain from getting enough oil, causing noise / wear.
Why did you replace the heads?
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You need to remove the pan otherwise there's no way to get the pickup tube off the pump. When you replace it make sure you inspect the pickup tube closely, mine had a crack on the top of it that allowed air to enter the pump.
Are you sure the pump is bad? Check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge first. Blockage can also occur near the timing chain tensioners that will prevent the timing chain from getting enough oil, causing noise / wear.
Why did you replace the heads?
Are you sure the pump is bad? Check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge first. Blockage can also occur near the timing chain tensioners that will prevent the timing chain from getting enough oil, causing noise / wear.
Why did you replace the heads?
At least I know I can get the front cover off in about 1.5 hours. No idea how long the pan will take. I can park it in the garage and have an engine hoist is that my best bet. Or should I cut the cross member. Take Into co sideration im a fabrication shop foreman, so welding it back together would probably be the easiest part of the whole job.
Thanks for sharing your expertise
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 396
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From: Buffalo, NY
cut the crossmember? That's certainly a creative way to do it!
No need to be that drastic. I never asked if it was 4wd or not, but if it is you'll need to drop the front diff to get access. If it's 2wd then you'll need to raise the engine a little bit with a hoist.
Starter, exhaust pipes, tranny cooler lines and engine to tranny support bracket need to come off as well. The pan gasket has a windage tray as part of it so it'll be the most expensive pan gasket you'll ever buy. Also pay attention to the tightening sequence on the pan bolts and bring them up in sequence to prevent leaks.
When you reassembled the timing chains are you sure you got them correct? They are a real PITA. Not sure if you replaced timing components but if not you need to inspect the guides and replace if worn. Ales replace the tensioners at minimum. When the tensioners are off check the oil holes for blockage. These motors got a bad rap for oil problems, but if you keep it clean and changed they really are a good little motor. Overheating it even once will kill them quickly though. Im sitting at 180k on mine now and cracked a head by overheating it (entirely my fault). Did a similar rebuild as yours and it runs like a top.
Good luck!
No need to be that drastic. I never asked if it was 4wd or not, but if it is you'll need to drop the front diff to get access. If it's 2wd then you'll need to raise the engine a little bit with a hoist. Starter, exhaust pipes, tranny cooler lines and engine to tranny support bracket need to come off as well. The pan gasket has a windage tray as part of it so it'll be the most expensive pan gasket you'll ever buy. Also pay attention to the tightening sequence on the pan bolts and bring them up in sequence to prevent leaks.
When you reassembled the timing chains are you sure you got them correct? They are a real PITA. Not sure if you replaced timing components but if not you need to inspect the guides and replace if worn. Ales replace the tensioners at minimum. When the tensioners are off check the oil holes for blockage. These motors got a bad rap for oil problems, but if you keep it clean and changed they really are a good little motor. Overheating it even once will kill them quickly though. Im sitting at 180k on mine now and cracked a head by overheating it (entirely my fault). Did a similar rebuild as yours and it runs like a top.
Good luck!
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Registered User
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cut the crossmember? That's certainly a creative way to do it! No need to be that drastic. I never asked if it was 4wd or not, but if it is you'll need to drop the front diff to get access. If it's 2wd then you'll need to raise the engine a little bit with a hoist.
Starter, exhaust pipes, tranny cooler lines and engine to tranny support bracket need to come off as well. The pan gasket has a windage tray as part of it so it'll be the most expensive pan gasket you'll ever buy. Also pay attention to the tightening sequence on the pan bolts and bring them up in sequence to prevent leaks.
When you reassembled the timing chains are you sure you got them correct? They are a real PITA. Not sure if you replaced timing components but if not you need to inspect the guides and replace if worn. Ales replace the tensioners at minimum. When the tensioners are off check the oil holes for blockage. These motors got a bad rap for oil problems, but if you keep it clean and changed they really are a good little motor. Overheating it even once will kill them quickly though. Im sitting at 180k on mine now and cracked a head by overheating it (entirely my fault). Did a similar rebuild as yours and it runs like a top.
Good luck!
No need to be that drastic. I never asked if it was 4wd or not, but if it is you'll need to drop the front diff to get access. If it's 2wd then you'll need to raise the engine a little bit with a hoist. Starter, exhaust pipes, tranny cooler lines and engine to tranny support bracket need to come off as well. The pan gasket has a windage tray as part of it so it'll be the most expensive pan gasket you'll ever buy. Also pay attention to the tightening sequence on the pan bolts and bring them up in sequence to prevent leaks.
When you reassembled the timing chains are you sure you got them correct? They are a real PITA. Not sure if you replaced timing components but if not you need to inspect the guides and replace if worn. Ales replace the tensioners at minimum. When the tensioners are off check the oil holes for blockage. These motors got a bad rap for oil problems, but if you keep it clean and changed they really are a good little motor. Overheating it even once will kill them quickly though. Im sitting at 180k on mine now and cracked a head by overheating it (entirely my fault). Did a similar rebuild as yours and it runs like a top.
Good luck!