engine rebuild, mild performance incease, lots of questions?
#11
02-14-2013, 06:33 PM
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#12
02-14-2013, 07:09 PM
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The motor turned 130,000 this week.
So far, the transmission has been rebuilt, oil pan gasket and oil pump replaced, transfer case gaskets replaced, radiator and water pump replaced as well as shocks, front ball joints, upper/lower control arm bushings, power-steering pump, alternator, plugs, rotor, cap, wires, oil-pressure-sending unit and brakes all around.
At this point the motor is one of the only major parts untouched.
To be honest, after all the above work was done, I took it on a 1,600 mile round trip to far North Iowa. Didn't skip a beat, burned so little oil it wasn't worth topping off.
I think the motor is in good shape. I'd rather rebuild now vs. when it's on its' last legs, and spending $1,200+ on headers, intake, reprogramming on a motor with 130,000 miles seems like making a silk purse of a sow's ear.
If I'm gonna pony up 1k+ in modest horsepower gains, I'd like to have a good motor to go with them.
Best,
Heekma
#13
02-14-2013, 07:30 PM
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#14
02-14-2013, 08:34 PM
Record Breaker
Hi Old School. Thanks for chiming in, I always appreciate your posts.
The motor turned 130,000 this week.
So far, the transmission has been rebuilt, oil pan gasket and oil pump replaced, transfer case gaskets replaced, radiator and water pump replaced as well as shocks, front ball joints, upper/lower control arm bushings, power-steering pump, alternator, plugs, rotor, cap, wires, oil-pressure-sending unit and brakes all around.
At this point the motor is one of the only major parts untouched.
To be honest, after all the above work was done, I took it on a 1,600 mile round trip to far North Iowa. Didn't skip a beat, burned so little oil it wasn't worth topping off.
I think the motor is in good shape. I'd rather rebuild now vs. when it's on its' last legs, and spending $1,200+ on headers, intake, reprogramming on a motor with 130,000 miles seems like making a silk purse of a sow's ear.
If I'm gonna pony up 1k+ in modest horsepower gains, I'd like to have a good motor to go with them.
Best,
Heekma
The motor turned 130,000 this week.
So far, the transmission has been rebuilt, oil pan gasket and oil pump replaced, transfer case gaskets replaced, radiator and water pump replaced as well as shocks, front ball joints, upper/lower control arm bushings, power-steering pump, alternator, plugs, rotor, cap, wires, oil-pressure-sending unit and brakes all around.
At this point the motor is one of the only major parts untouched.
To be honest, after all the above work was done, I took it on a 1,600 mile round trip to far North Iowa. Didn't skip a beat, burned so little oil it wasn't worth topping off.
I think the motor is in good shape. I'd rather rebuild now vs. when it's on its' last legs, and spending $1,200+ on headers, intake, reprogramming on a motor with 130,000 miles seems like making a silk purse of a sow's ear.
If I'm gonna pony up 1k+ in modest horsepower gains, I'd like to have a good motor to go with them.
Best,
Heekma
To be honest 130,000 miles on the magnum engine is barely breaking it in... I know of several with over 300,000 miles on them. I have never seen any of them under that mark or really ever fail unless they where severely neglected or abused. Do as you like as in the end it's your coins but i will tell you that unless you are building a 500+ racing motor adding headers are not gonna do anything for you but look cool..
If it where me i would just do any mods desired and take the rebuild money back to the bank... HTH
#15
02-16-2013, 11:15 PM
I agree with old school. I am turning just over 125k on my R/T and look at my sig. I did not have all the upgrades done at once tho. The F1 airgap was my last upgrade for my 5.9 that was bolted on when the engine just turned over at 119k miles.
The engine still idles and runs like a brand new engine. Hardly uses any oil if any. I keep this engine extremely well maintained.
Just recently had a water pump replaced. I couldn't figure out why my temp in the summer was fluctuating alot and everything under the hood was fine. Discovered the bad pump when I had the mechanic change the idler pulley (making screeching noises on and off) but later discovered the screeching noises was coming from the water pump when I had the mechanic permanently remove the clutch. Idler pulley was fine. As soon as he took off the belt, he saw the fan sagged down a bit to know the bearing was shot and the shaft had lots of play.
Now my temp is running within norm.
If your engine is still running in tip top shape, I would agree with old school and not bother having it rebuilt until something majorly goes wrong.
Use your $1500 to get a new fastman throttle body, a F1 airgap manifold, a SCT tuner and still come out saving a few bucks.
The engine still idles and runs like a brand new engine. Hardly uses any oil if any. I keep this engine extremely well maintained.
Just recently had a water pump replaced. I couldn't figure out why my temp in the summer was fluctuating alot and everything under the hood was fine. Discovered the bad pump when I had the mechanic change the idler pulley (making screeching noises on and off) but later discovered the screeching noises was coming from the water pump when I had the mechanic permanently remove the clutch. Idler pulley was fine. As soon as he took off the belt, he saw the fan sagged down a bit to know the bearing was shot and the shaft had lots of play.
Now my temp is running within norm.
If your engine is still running in tip top shape, I would agree with old school and not bother having it rebuilt until something majorly goes wrong.
Use your $1500 to get a new fastman throttle body, a F1 airgap manifold, a SCT tuner and still come out saving a few bucks.
#16
02-17-2013, 10:49 AM
Well porting a head is where a machinist take the intake and exhaust ports and dremels them out, larger diameter and taking out all the sharp edges. Shaving the heads is where they take they "shave" the bottom surface of the off a little bit making the combustion chamber smaller thus raising the compression.
#17
02-17-2013, 06:05 PM
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I agree with old school. I am turning just over 125k on my R/T and look at my sig. I did not have all the upgrades done at once tho. The F1 airgap was my last upgrade for my 5.9 that was bolted on when the engine just turned over at 119k miles.
The engine still idles and runs like a brand new engine. Hardly uses any oil if any. I keep this engine extremely well maintained.
Just recently had a water pump replaced. I couldn't figure out why my temp in the summer was fluctuating alot and everything under the hood was fine. Discovered the bad pump when I had the mechanic change the idler pulley (making screeching noises on and off) but later discovered the screeching noises was coming from the water pump when I had the mechanic permanently remove the clutch. Idler pulley was fine. As soon as he took off the belt, he saw the fan sagged down a bit to know the bearing was shot and the shaft had lots of play.
Now my temp is running within norm.
If your engine is still running in tip top shape, I would agree with old school and not bother having it rebuilt until something majorly goes wrong.
Use your $1500 to get a new fastman throttle body, a F1 airgap manifold, a SCT tuner and still come out saving a few bucks.
The engine still idles and runs like a brand new engine. Hardly uses any oil if any. I keep this engine extremely well maintained.
Just recently had a water pump replaced. I couldn't figure out why my temp in the summer was fluctuating alot and everything under the hood was fine. Discovered the bad pump when I had the mechanic change the idler pulley (making screeching noises on and off) but later discovered the screeching noises was coming from the water pump when I had the mechanic permanently remove the clutch. Idler pulley was fine. As soon as he took off the belt, he saw the fan sagged down a bit to know the bearing was shot and the shaft had lots of play.
Now my temp is running within norm.
If your engine is still running in tip top shape, I would agree with old school and not bother having it rebuilt until something majorly goes wrong.
Use your $1500 to get a new fastman throttle body, a F1 airgap manifold, a SCT tuner and still come out saving a few bucks.
I had a compression test done before buying this Durango, came back as all between 160 and 170. Isn't 130 or so minimum for the 5.9?
I recently took a 1,700 mile round trip to IA with this truck and it burned so little oil I didn't top it off (I had it filled to just a hair over "safe" before taking the trip).
I think it's running strong and well, but the last V8 I owned was a tired 72 Nova when I was 20 or so. I have a fair ear though and this 360 doesn't have any rough idle, hesitation, knock under acceleration or knocks while idling.
I had no idea how long-lived these motors were. My last vehicle-96 Cherokee-was spewing oil from every crevice at 130,000 and I purchased it with 50,000, maintained it well, never drove it hard.
Guess I was comparing the 5.9 to the Jeep 4.0 and thinking upgrades would be throwing money away.
With the upgrades you listed, what's a ballpark figure fore HP increase? I'd be damned pleased with 25 extra ponies, anything more and I'd be as happy as a pig in you know what.
Best,
Heekma