Howdy folks,

I can do simple stuff like brakes, plugs, sensors-even a water pump-but an engine rebuild is so far away from my limited knowledge I may as well be talking theoretical physics. Hell, I do 3D animation for a living, I'm not a mechanic!

I have a 2000 R/T that I've sunk more money into than I care to admit. At this point, it's beyond driving my money back out of it, it's about being in for a penny, in for a pound.

The motor is fine, but within the next couple months I'd like to have it rebuilt. After that I'll have a 12-year-old truck as good as new.

Here are my questions, I'd be in your debt if you'd help me out.

A local machine shop (Dallas, TX) with a stellar reputation will do a long-block rebuild for @ $1,500.

What I've learned is that includes tearing the motor apart, cleaning, checking clearances, reusing what's still in spec. As long as the pistons, rings and cylinder walls agree with each other, mostly bearings will be replaced as well as gaskets. Have I got that right?

Next, I'd like a modest performance increase. It seems the smart money is spent on a single-plane manifold and headers-let the motor breathe. Heads can help, but at significant cost, and frankly I'm not trying to make a beast, just want to gain a little oomph if I'm rebuilding the motor.

And that's it. I figure if I'm gonna spend $1,500 (at least!) On a rebuild, I'd like to get the most reasonable bang for the buck in terms of modest performance increases while I'm at it.

Any and all help would be very much appreciated. This is uncharted territory for me and I'd prefer to do this once, have a modest boost in performance and drive the wheels off this Durango.

Best,

Heekma

 

Might be a silly question, but why rebuild it if it's not broke?

Just for the simple reason to add modifications on the rebuild?

 

There is a member on this forum, Hemifever, who does tune upgrades for stock engines for $275. It can be configured to give you a healthy performance boost. I think if you add to that a more aggressive cam, a slightly higher compression ratio when the engine is rebuilt, and a custom tune for $375, you'll get plenty more performance for low costs over a basic rebuild.

 

dont for get the ZDDPLUS , on the cam and in the oil. start up keep RPM 1500-2000 for 10-15 min else you loose the cam.

 

I would do a modest cam. Since you have the heads off have them shaved and ported. Wouldn't hurt to see if they would put 2.02" valves in.

 

While I agree a zinc additive is usually a good idea and surely won't hurt anything...the Magnums are roller lifter engines and the zinc is almost wasted. The bearings will break in with a good assembly lube, same for the cam, since the rollers are lubricated by oil and there is not metal to metal contact as you would have in a flat tappet cam engine...like the pre-Magnum engines.

In a pre-Magnum engine...for sure, zinc is a GREAT idea.

 

i first learned about zinc , in 1969 when i built a 1957 chrysler 392 hemi. put it in a 1959 ply wagon. my dad tried to race GTOs but was giving away to much weight.

 

How many miles are on this engine? chances are it still has plenty of life left and would be silly to shell out that kinda money for a rebuild.

 

If it's not broke why fix it? If you want a little more power get a K&N cold air intake. I think it is around a 10-15hp gain and a bit better on your MPG and would only run you about $250 bucks plus there super easy to install.

 

Hi Raw,

In some ways, yes. If I'm going through the trouble and expense of replacing headers, intake manifold, among other things, I hate the idea of spending that money on a motor with 130,000 miles on it. I'd rather do it all at once and be done.

Best,

Heekma