Please advise on 9.25LD / 3.55 servicing
This is the vehicle my daughter drives through the hood in ATL so I'm sure you can appreciate the concern I had yesterday when she called because the car was making loud clapping sounds when turning. She had only noticed it turning hard left coming out of the parking deck cold and the sound seemed to come from the back end. I arrived on scene and could not duplicate. Since the diff is probably one of the two things left on this car that I have not had to address, I thought it would be good insurance to service it. I've got to get her back on the road today.
I've taken the cover off, PITA as there was no gasket just the tube crap. There were only a couple very small pieces of metal on the magnet, smaller than a McDonalds burger bone shard.
I plan on using conventional 80/90 fluid for fear of the synthetic finding a way to seep out the original seals. I'm not opposed to replacing them, but on a planned schedule not emergently. Is this thought off base?
From what I have read on these forums, I have an open differential as the wheels turn opposite when off the ground. I already have the build sheet, the one from compnine provides nothing further. My owners manual states "Limited slip differentials require the use of a friction control additive. Mopar Hypoid Gear Oil Additive Friction Modifier is a material of this type and is recommended." WTF Dodge! Assuming it is correct that I have an open diff, these questions.
Are there clutch parts inside the carrier, is there any reason to break it down? I would assume not.
What is the gasket I should seek? I really don't want to reproduce the mess I hard to clean up last night
Should I use a small amount of form a gasket with the seal, if so what kind?
Should an open look like the mine? It looks like a LSD from the pics I've seen, haven't seen a pic of an open.
any other advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I've taken the cover off, PITA as there was no gasket just the tube crap. There were only a couple very small pieces of metal on the magnet, smaller than a McDonalds burger bone shard.
I plan on using conventional 80/90 fluid for fear of the synthetic finding a way to seep out the original seals. I'm not opposed to replacing them, but on a planned schedule not emergently. Is this thought off base?
From what I have read on these forums, I have an open differential as the wheels turn opposite when off the ground. I already have the build sheet, the one from compnine provides nothing further. My owners manual states "Limited slip differentials require the use of a friction control additive. Mopar Hypoid Gear Oil Additive Friction Modifier is a material of this type and is recommended." WTF Dodge! Assuming it is correct that I have an open diff, these questions.
Are there clutch parts inside the carrier, is there any reason to break it down? I would assume not.
What is the gasket I should seek? I really don't want to reproduce the mess I hard to clean up last night
Should I use a small amount of form a gasket with the seal, if so what kind?
Should an open look like the mine? It looks like a LSD from the pics I've seen, haven't seen a pic of an open.
any other advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Last edited by robtimm; May 18, 2013 at 10:45 AM. Reason: more info
This is the vehicle my daughter drives through the hood in ATL so I'm sure you can appreciate the concern I had yesterday when she called because the car was making loud clapping sounds when turning. She had only noticed it turning hard left coming out of the parking deck cold and the sound seemed to come from the back end. I arrived on scene and could not duplicate. Since the diff is probably one of the two things left on this car that I have not had to address, I thought it would be good insurance to service it. I've got to get her back on the road today.
I've taken the cover off, PITA as there was no gasket just the tube crap. There were only a couple very small pieces of metal on the magnet, smaller than a McDonalds burger bone shard.
I plan on using conventional 80/90 fluid for fear of the synthetic finding a way to seep out the original seals. I'm not opposed to replacing them, but on a planned schedule not emergently. Is this thought off base?
From what I have read on these forums, I have an open differential as the wheels turn opposite when off the ground. I already have the build sheet, the one from compnine provides nothing further. My owners manual states "Limited slip differentials require the use of a friction control additive. Mopar Hypoid Gear Oil Additive Friction Modifier is a material of this type and is recommended." WTF Dodge! Assuming it is correct that I have an open diff, these questions.
Are there clutch parts inside the carrier, is there any reason to break it down? I would assume not.
What is the gasket I should seek? I really don't want to reproduce the mess I hard to clean up last night
Should I use a small amount of form a gasket with the seal, if so what kind?
Should an open look like the mine? It looks like a LSD from the pics I've seen, haven't seen a pic of an open.
any other advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I've taken the cover off, PITA as there was no gasket just the tube crap. There were only a couple very small pieces of metal on the magnet, smaller than a McDonalds burger bone shard.
I plan on using conventional 80/90 fluid for fear of the synthetic finding a way to seep out the original seals. I'm not opposed to replacing them, but on a planned schedule not emergently. Is this thought off base?
From what I have read on these forums, I have an open differential as the wheels turn opposite when off the ground. I already have the build sheet, the one from compnine provides nothing further. My owners manual states "Limited slip differentials require the use of a friction control additive. Mopar Hypoid Gear Oil Additive Friction Modifier is a material of this type and is recommended." WTF Dodge! Assuming it is correct that I have an open diff, these questions.
Are there clutch parts inside the carrier, is there any reason to break it down? I would assume not.
What is the gasket I should seek? I really don't want to reproduce the mess I hard to clean up last night
Should I use a small amount of form a gasket with the seal, if so what kind?
Should an open look like the mine? It looks like a LSD from the pics I've seen, haven't seen a pic of an open.
any other advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any help.
You can get a gasket for it at any Autozone (or auto parts store) for about $5. If you go to Autozone, in order to get the correct gasket you have to ask for one for a Ram 1500. Don't ask me why but that's how its in there computer. I just threw the gasket on, didn't use any RTV but, if you like for peace of mind it wont hurt to put a small bead on.
When i serviced mine i switched it to synthetic oil and have had no issues for over a year. All that talk about seals leaking after switching is old wise tail BS. It may help accelerate an already failed seal but, wont be the sole reason for failure. When put the synthetic oil in i also put in the friction modifier just for ****s and giggles even tho i don't have limited slip. Its not expensive and it may or may not help any other noises.
IIRC, there are clutches in the carrier but, unless you are seeing chunks in the old oil i would not worry about them, chances are they are fine... looking at your PIC it looks like my open diff from the best i can tell...
Thanks guy, per your advice, I'm buying Permatex Gear Oil RTV to dress the gasket
I believe Advance also has the correct gasket for my 12 bolt Felpro Part No. RDS 55073
And Mobil1 75W 90 pure synthetic
Now my basket is at $48.05, gotta spend another $1.95 to reach $50 to get the $25 gift cert later
I believe Advance also has the correct gasket for my 12 bolt Felpro Part No. RDS 55073
And Mobil1 75W 90 pure synthetic
Now my basket is at $48.05, gotta spend another $1.95 to reach $50 to get the $25 gift cert later
Thanks guy, per your advice, I'm buying Permatex Gear Oil RTV to dress the gasket
I believe Advance also has the correct gasket for my 12 bolt Felpro Part No. RDS 55073
And Mobil1 75W 90 pure synthetic
Now my basket is at $48.05, gotta spend another $1.95 to reach $50 to get the $25 gift cert later
I believe Advance also has the correct gasket for my 12 bolt Felpro Part No. RDS 55073
And Mobil1 75W 90 pure synthetic
Now my basket is at $48.05, gotta spend another $1.95 to reach $50 to get the $25 gift cert later

Just make sure you check the gasket before you leave the store... i ordered mine online as well and when i got to the store that's when i discovered it was wrong...



