Basic info is 46re with 174k on it and 100k on the torque converter, only 2 owners are uncles so I know the history. Fluid has 14k on it and I have not touched the bands. So I went four wheeling two weeks ago. I drove the truck home saturday no issues. Thursday I drive it to work because a co-worker was selling some aftermarket rims and I wanted to see if they fit. Thursday morning it drove fine. Thursday night after work torque converter will not lock up. With my sct tune it has always locked up when cruising at 42mph or more. This is in O/D or O/D off (3rd or 4th). Also at WOT when the trans gets warm it waits til the rev limiter to shift (found that the governor pressure solenoid is the likely culprit for this one). I'm stumped, I have not dropped the pan yet and everything else seems fine. Thanks in advance.

 

If you end up needing a new torque converter let me know. I just replaced mine and ill hook you up with some info on it... cost me about $140 shipped to my door.

 

Ok thanks old_school, I'm going to pm master tech and have him chime in on this thread. I haven't found any threads with an issue like mine. Also I reset my pcm with my sct tuner and re-flashed the tune into it and there was no change.

 

Did you ever find anyone in the forum who knows the 46 re and can diagnose tricky issues? I ask because I have one that has me baffled.

The convert fluid drains into the pan when it sits.

I went through the transmission and resealed the drums but found no burning. I replaced the converter. It still leaks down when it sits.

I did NOT go through the valve body and I've got a feeling that there's a check ball or valve that is allowing the fluid in the convert to drain back into the pan. So, when I start it cold, I have to put it in neutral for a minute to fill the converter before the truck wants to move.

Anyone got an idea?

 

There is suppost to be a check valve in the transmission lines on the left side towards the front, this prevents the fluid from draining back.. sounds like someone removed it. Your not going to hurt anything by having it removed, in fact many here have removed them as they age and fail.

 

+1 old_school. I have pm master_tech and he want me to have a stall test done with a DRBIII scan tool. I will have to talk with one of the tech at the dealership I work at and set up an appointment. Signs are pointing towards the lockup solenoid has failed. I know I need to do the governor pressure solenoid soon so I may do those two solenoids and a mild shift kit.

 

So this weekend I had a new development. I was down at the local off-road area fishing and all of a sudden my trans temp light came one and it locked itself out of overdrive. I let it cool off and as I'm limping it home it got so hot it popped out of gear Ok so I just got my D back from the dealership I work at and the verdict is...........time for a rebuild. Governor pressures are off (knew that one) so I'm gonna replace it with a borg-warner HD one. Also the tech was telling me he thinks that the overheating is from excessive torque converter slip with a possibility that the cooler lines are plugged or the check valve failed. So I can get the full rebuild kit from mopar for $198 after my employee discount. Also I'm gonna do this mild shift kit. I'm gonna see if one of the local tranny shops will do heavy duty rebuild on my current torque converter (if it is still good). Also gonna do the lockup solenoid. So lots of work ahead for me. Just a chance to upgrade.

 

I feel your pain.. as you know i have been going though the same thing.. The Borg Warner governor pressures are great, i have them in the current trans and they will be in the new trans. If i where you i would go ahead and just replace the TC since your doing a full overhaul.. you don't want to get it all back together and find that you need one or worst it kills the new trans.

As far as the check valve i have heard good and bad about removing it. When my new trans is swapped in about 2 weeks, i plan to replace the cooling lines so that there one solid metal line from the cooler to the trans and back. I was a little worried about not putting the check valve back in as i have heard that it can do harm. Looking back and doing research i have found that the only ones saying it would do harm not to put it back in were trans techs. As long as i let it sit in neutral for a few sec when i first start up i should be ok so im not gonna worry about it.

 

Well with that shift kit it should circulate in park as well as neutral so I can just get in and not have to put it into neutral. Where did you get that torque converter? Also do they have any heavier duty towing type ones? The only ones I have found, I haven't actively searched yet either, are hughes performance but they are like $500.

 

I'll PM you the contact info since the forum will just block out the website anyways.

Here is a copy of the quote from my email:

***************** HERE IS YOUR QUOTE ****************
*** This quote expires in 7 days from e-mail date ***

Vehicle: 98 Dodge Durango 5.2L 44re

Stock torque converter price is $120 + $20 S&H.
Our Part # 879

Updated Heavy Duty torque converter price is $165 + $20 S&H.
Our Part # 879SP

Most orders shipped within 24 hours (Mon-Sat) after confirmed checkout.
It will be shipped via USPS Priority Mail 2-3 days service or UPS Ground
depend on the size of your converter.
The tracking # will be email to you once shipped. Continental US
delivery time is approx. 2-3 days.

- S&H based on domestic US only -