No it's not. It's very possible that other posts were made pushing it to the next page and no one (or no one that knew the answer) saw it.

 

Ok. Down to one final nut to remove it and I am at a lost. I cant find an angle head wrench and the crows foot isn't working. There is also this tab that is in the way as well. Help... I this is the final thing to removing the tcase....

 

I'm trying to remember how I got the bolt off before, but I honestly can't remember. The FSM might have some procedure that works listed in it. Here's a link to it: http://www.mediafire.com/?xu9h0gt9bdcn6

 

So update...... I got the cases swapped out but lost alot of fluid in the process. Come to find out the Trans shop never put a seal on the back end. So I need to put more fluid in the case and trans and get it buttoned up as well. One thing I have found is the 4x4 position sensor isn't matching up at all. But all in all so far so good.

 

You had a NV242. Sorry the shop screwed it up. You motor must have been swapped from a 5.9L to a 5.2L or someone swapped the T-case before you.

Actually Dextron can be used in that specific NV242 T-Case, for that matter you could probably use a light gear oil. I would personally not use anything other than ATF+4 in any of the Durango T-cases, but nevertheless, the owners manual and shop manual both state "Dextron can be used" but only in the T-case. Sorry but it's the truth.

NP means New Process and NV means New Venture both built on the same platform however the newer version is the NV. The NV242 is also known as the NV242HD and NP242, blah blah blah. Never use PT unless you are on non-slip surfaces because the drives are locked. You should use only 4X4 FT for all road surfaces using that NV242 T-case as there is slip. Here is some good info: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np242.htm

You need to stay with 1998-2000 transfer cases that have a manual lever, then they "should" bolt up but I would get an exact match. You simply cannot get any "Dodge 44/46re" T-case and have it work.

 

I know it says you can in the book, but it also says you can 7500 miles on an oil change, neither of which are advisable.

 

Hell I wouldn't even run 7500 with full synthetic. My trucks first oil change isn't even due till 10,000 miles though.

 

Still have to add fluids and install the front drive shaft. One thing does the tcase have lil bb size bearings in it?

 

Well I did a test running a Dodge Neon (think it was a 1995) using 7,500 mile intervals 65/35 hwy/city using Mobil One Full Synthetic after Mobil testing perimeters were noted to me personally years ago from a BMW test engine and a family member doing that particular testing for Mobil. After a lot of BS'ing back and forth I finally decided to try it and start reading up on oils.

I purchased the Neon and decided to take the test. Well after 100k the head gasket blew on my Neon as they were known to have bad ones so we mic'ed out the motor. Guess what, the think mic'ed out as brand new!!!! That’s right NOOOOO signs of ware even in the cylinder block.

So the test BMW went 1,000,000 miles without blowing, and my Neon in real conditions went 100k with no signs of ware. All this and running 7,500 mile oil changes using Mobil One FS.

Myself and I, well I sure as hell run it in all my engines period! Besides they use Polly base oil same as Royal and a few others. To each their own is what I say but I have an insiders view and I'm not going back. Now that I'm older I run 5,000 mile changes and once a year for my truck at about 3-5k because of the low anual mileage.

 

Did you change the filter at the same interval as well?