All you need is a 9/16th wrench for that transfer case bolts and a 3/8th? wrench to drop the drive shaft. You will also need to change the shifter as well and if i remember correctly that was 2 5/8th bolts..

 

Thanks for the info

 

Hey guys, sorry took so long for me to update, but thanks a lot to That_guy thanks to your pics and instructions i was able to find it relatively quickly, it was in an awkward position for me to do by hand but i was able to get it and hasnt had a problem since.

Although now I'm noticing that every once in a while it will stall while im stopped, at a stop sign or light if its for a few minutes, starts right back up fine and cant even tell it cut out until i try to move, no indicators light up, electronics still work fine. Any idea??

 

That's probably the idle air control valve or a bad battery/ battery connections.

 

okay thanks, ill look into those when i get the chance.. how hard would the IACV be to replace myself if thats what i decided to try?

 

It's not difficult. There are instructions with how to remove it here.

 

As for the IAC Valve, they do go bad on very rare occasion. The more likely culprits are either the MAP Sensor or the Crank Position Sensor. I have had experiences with both of them on separate occasions. The MAP sensor will usually cause a sudden low or high idle when coming to a stop, and the CPS will usually cause an occasional miss while driving under load, or a stumble at idle. When the CPS goes bad, it will tend to have a weakened signal as it gets hotter (temps are highest while sitting still idling) As the signal becomes weaker, you may experience stalling with no restart until it cools down some. Hope that helps.

BTW my Rango is a 99 with the 231 case. I am looking to going over to the 242 in the near future as well.