1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Old School Bewildered

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 10-18-2013, 07:16 PM
mabradds's Avatar
mabradds
mabradds is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Cool Old School Bewildered

Working on 2001 Durango 4.7 OHC Auto 174000 miles. Son driving on highway only about 10 miles from home Durango overheats & shuts down (he said temp gauge never pegged & he knows we need to know all) would not restart even after cool down. I stop on the way home try to start it & ah I've heard that no compression sound & the little puff out the exhaust periodically all to many times. get it home, pull it down crank sprocket @ 6 idler sprocket @ 12 cam sprockets (both banks) V8 @ 12 R L & alignment holes dead nuts across. Now like I said I'm old school self taught shade tree. so I get stumped on some of these newer vehicles on some things. So help me be this boys hero one more time (even though he's 35)...55. Thanks for your time
 
  #2  
Old 10-18-2013, 07:29 PM
that_guy's Avatar
that_guy
that_guy is offline
Champion
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA or Columbia, SC
Posts: 4,098
Received 44 Likes on 43 Posts
Default

I don't really know anything about the 4.7 either, but did you try a compression test? If nothing seems wrong mechanically it might just be some electronic issue, but it's hard to say since it overheated.
 
  #3  
Old 10-18-2013, 10:41 PM
mabradds's Avatar
mabradds
mabradds is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

No I have not, I understand the 4.7 to be an interference engine. so didn't want to crank it to much until I knew if it was out of time or not.
 
  #4  
Old 10-18-2013, 10:48 PM
that_guy's Avatar
that_guy
that_guy is offline
Champion
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA or Columbia, SC
Posts: 4,098
Received 44 Likes on 43 Posts
Default

If I read your post right the timing was still fine? If so I'd go ahead and do a compression test if you said it sounded like there was low/no compression.
 
  #5  
Old 10-18-2013, 10:54 PM
mabradds's Avatar
mabradds
mabradds is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yes U did read it correct & I will run compression test tomorrow. Thnx
 
  #6  
Old 10-18-2013, 11:16 PM
that_guy's Avatar
that_guy
that_guy is offline
Champion
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA or Columbia, SC
Posts: 4,098
Received 44 Likes on 43 Posts
Default

If that all checks out I'd start looking at things like the crankshaft position sensor. I don't remember, was the check engine light on?
 
  #7  
Old 11-20-2013, 03:36 PM
mabradds's Avatar
mabradds
mabradds is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

OK, sorry been out of town working. got it all back together compression test fine, had it running once but it sounded out of time & hard starting. like i said old school if this was happening on a distributor engine i would move the distributor. so is this what the crank or cam sensor replaces? the cam sensor controls spark & injectors correct but works in conjunction with the crank sensor ? oh don't remember if the check engine light was on & battery has been diconnected since then. Thnx
 

Last edited by mabradds; 11-20-2013 at 04:40 PM.
  #8  
Old 11-20-2013, 08:30 PM
that_guy's Avatar
that_guy
that_guy is offline
Champion
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA or Columbia, SC
Posts: 4,098
Received 44 Likes on 43 Posts
Default

As far as I know both of the sensors contribute to the computer controlling the ignition, fuel, etc
 
  #9  
Old 11-20-2013, 08:37 PM
mabradds's Avatar
mabradds
mabradds is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ok thanks fairly inexpensive to replace
 



Quick Reply: Old School Bewildered



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:14 PM.