my baby is giving me problems recently, and i need some advice
durango 2001 4.7 2WD

so this started some time ago
at the beginning started stalling when changing from park to drive in the morning, but it was very random

so i started to get worried, and give it some maintenance

started with all common suspects
cleaned throttle body and iac
checked hoses
changed
canister hoses, that were completely destroyed
oil (not that dirty but replace it)
air filter (fairly clean but put a new one)
oil filter (mopar)
plugs (put ngk v-power, old ones had some weird number, i think the cherokee ones, the shop put those)
and service my transmission
mopar atf+4 and the 2 mopar filters, dirty oil (dark red) but no metal pieces
change brake fluid and check hoses, and pads and rotors

then my nightmare, i dont have a way to clean my injectors so took my baby to a shop and ask them to clean my injectors, they used a mopar can of injector cleaner, and i didnt like it the way they did it, cause they leave the fuel pump on, so the fuel went to a deposit until tank was almost empty ....... so i take it to home and like 3 days later
IT STARTED TO STALL WHILE DRIVING, the first time it scared the hell out of me, cause i was like 40mp/h and suddenly no brakes and no steering, from that day more often when i decelerate (stop pushing gas pedal) or make a stop, or make a turn- it stalls , it is randomly but it stalls often, and sometimes when i turn it on, rpm goes ups and down like crazy for a while until it settles normal, so checked codes and
p0108
appeared , ....... it is a code for high voltage on sensor, so i checked voltages
check voltages from pcm and i get 5v from the 2 pins on the sides, and 0v the midle i think thats correct but the moment i connected the plug to the sensor it went down
i think it supposed to have 5v with key on and 1.5v on idle
but i have
3.8v when key on, and
1.0v on idle (this is low right? isn't supposed to be high and no low for a p108 code)

i have read other similar problems with a p0108 and one said it was a oil pressure switch,or broken seals, others the iac valve, others the tps, and so on ,so i checked all, (except iac i dont know how to test that) and my oil is acting funny, on cold its normal, but when hot its high if im accelerating but if i leave the pedal it goes almost all down so i think my sensor is bad too my tps is ok but i think is old too and no consistent readings, im not sure my iac

so, anybody had some advice? with stalls on decelerating

what brand recommend me cause mopar brand at the dealer is crazy expensive
80 bucks for the map, and 80 bucks for the oil sender 120 bucks for a heater hose (almost a heart attack with this one) is a lot and still want to change some others like the tps, iac and camshaft and crankshaft sensors (almost all over 80 bucks each at dealer)
i saw those parts on this brands and way cheaper, which one do you recommend ?
airtex
standard motor products SMP
delphi
ORIGINAL ENGINE MGMT (found almost all on this brand)
Wells


how good is the "autoparts international" brand for suspension parts? or which one do you recommend me, my ball joints have some play,and suspension parts are worn probably i change them too, i know moog are the best but cant find a full kit with all 10 pieces

i have another problem with my power locks going crazy but maybe i open another thread later

thanks in advance

 

Code: P0108 Map Sens Voltage Too Hi
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-durango/81132-engine-code-index-check-engine-light.html

Sounds mainly like a MAP issue as that's the code you’re having. Next time your having codes pop up revert to the engine code index before buying un-needed parts.

Well you do understand you need a copper spark plug in that engine so revert back to the cheap Champion Copper plugs and gap to I think it's .040 off the top of my head.

Could be a fuel pump issue, may need replacement or it could be a bad connection. You must drop the tank and the pump is expensive. Buy the whole unit. You can test the fuel pressure using the port on the fuel rail and a tester. I like to see it hold 50 psi through out the entire RPM range.

On you O2 sensors you have a resistor, so you have an input of 5 Volts the output of the sensor tells the PCM what lean your running by the output it receives. So testing that doesn’t really mean much. The 3rd leg on the sensors is the heat sensor which tells the PCM to be in open or closed loop whilst waiting for the engine to warm.