99 Durango 5.2L will not start
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
Shrp, I did not move the plunger at all. I remember there being a way to test it but I can't remember. The issue is only happening at idle, its runs and drives perfectly fine, just stubborn to stay on until I put some tape on the throttle adjusting screw to keep the plate opened up a tad, I plugged my reader in and it says the throttle is still at 0% with the tape on there. So it shouldn't be dumping more fuel in, its just without that tape there, all I can smell is gas.
Well 0 volts isn't good, sounds like your TPS is bad.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)
3.9L - 5.2L - 5.9L Engines
The TPS can be tested with a digital voltmeter.
The center electrical terminal of the TPS is
the output terminal.
The center electrical terminal of the TPS is
the output terminal.
With the ignition key in the ON position, check the
TPS output voltage at the center terminal wire of the
connector. Check this at idle (throttle plate closed)
and at wide open throttle (WOT). At idle, TPS output
voltage should be greater than .350 millivolts but
less than 900 millivolts. At wide open throttle, TPS
output voltage must be less than 4.5 volts. The output
voltage should increase gradually as the throttle
plate is slowly opened from idle to WOT.
TPS output voltage at the center terminal wire of the
connector. Check this at idle (throttle plate closed)
and at wide open throttle (WOT). At idle, TPS output
voltage should be greater than .350 millivolts but
less than 900 millivolts. At wide open throttle, TPS
output voltage must be less than 4.5 volts. The output
voltage should increase gradually as the throttle
plate is slowly opened from idle to WOT.
Last edited by hydrashocker; Mar 17, 2014 at 12:00 PM.
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Registered User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 5
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Position %, not volts, hydra..... On a brighter side of things, figured out what it was... I think... Durango was struggling to stay on, rev up, just basically started getting worse and worse. Had off on Monday so I decided to change out the spark plugs for sh*** and giggles.... 2 of the plugs, found out as I was replacing them, were cracked.... Ceramic was completely split in 2, and one of those 2 were completly missing the core inside the ceramic.... All I know, is I have NO idea how it was running before and that it runs MUCH better now and I'm no longer smelling gas at high/low RPM... Still checking a few other things and fixing a few that I broke in the process(pcv valve broke in 2 and can't get it removed now without pulling the cover off and breaking it out) but all in all, much more happy once the plugs were changed...
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
Sorry miss read your statement. I would have never of thought broken spark plugs. Whom ever replaced them last time must have tightened them on the side instead of straight down. Newbee mistake right there, maybe first timer....LOL
I was able to use a large pair of needle nose pliers and a screw driver to get my breather out without loosing it down in the valve cover. I went to the dealer and bought both new grommets, Breather, PVC, and the pre-bent hose that I think was on the breather side.
I'm very intrigued by this statement, do you have any information to actually back this up?
I was able to use a large pair of needle nose pliers and a screw driver to get my breather out without loosing it down in the valve cover. I went to the dealer and bought both new grommets, Breather, PVC, and the pre-bent hose that I think was on the breather side.
EFFECTS OF INCORRECT FLUID LEVEL
A low fluid level allows the pump to take in air
along with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause fluid
pressures to be low and develop slower than normal.
If the transmission is overfilled, the gears churn the
fluid into foam. This aerates the fluid and causing
the same conditions occurring with a low level. In
either case, air bubbles cause fluid overheating, oxidation
and varnish buildup which interferes with
valve, clutch and servo operation. Foaming also
causes fluid expansion which can result in fluid overflow
from the transmission vent or fill tube. Fluid
overflow can easily be mistaken for a leak if inspection
is not careful.
along with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause fluid
pressures to be low and develop slower than normal.
If the transmission is overfilled, the gears churn the
fluid into foam. This aerates the fluid and causing
the same conditions occurring with a low level. In
either case, air bubbles cause fluid overheating, oxidation
and varnish buildup which interferes with
valve, clutch and servo operation. Foaming also
causes fluid expansion which can result in fluid overflow
from the transmission vent or fill tube. Fluid
overflow can easily be mistaken for a leak if inspection
