Yes it does well it primed as soon as I tapped it and it starts for 30 seconds after I mess with the black connector at pcm so far I've replaced
Battery
TPS
Iac
2-relays
IM guessing crank sensor here since it can cause pcm to not communicate ? Is that correct?
Thanks for the help so far I appreciate it I will post any changes going forward

 

It's possible if the crank sensor is shorted that it could mess with the bus. If unplugging it (won't run obviously) get's rid of the no bus that would point to it being the issue.

 

[QUOTE=that_guy;3225942]It's possible if the crank sensor is shorted that it could mess with the bus. If unplugging it (won't run obviously) get's rid of the no bus that would point to it being the issue.[/QUOTE

I unplugged the crankshaft connector and no bus was still on ,I'm gonna start w the crankshaft next and go from there ,This vehicle is a money pit but when it drives its a monster and we like it we just need to get it right

 

I think you'd be better off trying a junkyard pcm next rather than the crank sensor then.

 

Ok, would those be plug and play providing the part # matches mine ? Or will j have to pay the stealership? I'm going with mopar crankshaft sensor when and if I have to do that

 

It's best if the numbers match, but I was able to put a 98 pcm (same engine and options as my 99) in place of my original 99 pcm while trouble shooting things and it works fine. Not sure how forgiving the newer 01 and up trucks are though about that.

 

i went to the junkyard earlier they had 1 that fit my vehicle,it looked like it was godzillas chew toy and they couldnt tell me if it worked or not so i didnt buy it ,ever since the issue with the no bus yesterday i didnt touch the car well a little while ago i decided to turn the key just to see if the pcm was working(gages turning etc) and it did it started right up 4-5 times it took about 13 minutes to warm up to normal temp and finally shut down on its own after the 5th restart

it now restarts ,fuel primes gages turn like it normally does and dies within seconds 2 things i noticed by watching the gages is that thr rpm is at 600 now when it was usually at 700 and the rpm drops a hair barely noticeable when i turn the wheel left and right on idle and in park,aside from the internet and the research ive done noone that i talked to knows jack about durangos or anything similar to my situation the guy at the junkyard told me to check crankshaft,fuel pump i called the local chrysler dealer and the kid didnt even know what i was asking...i want to thank you for your time and help so far by the way ,the engine sounds quieter now you can barely tell its on

any suggestions now or help?

 

Well it does sound like something is getting hot and then crapping out. Probably the coil if you're getting a no bus, although it could be a crank or cam sensor too as they're both on the bus.

 

Crank sensor in mine was failing when hot, let it cool down and it would run fine again. I didn't get the "no bus" message though.

 

Interesting, I had the same thing happen a couple weeks ago. I replaced the coil, drove fine for a week and acted up again. Replaced the computer and same thing. Replaced crank sensor and it's been fine for 3 weeks. Changed the cam sensor in the distributor too for good measure. I didn't have a no bus either, it just died while I was going down the road a couple times, then a couple times while idling at stop signs.

Intermittent and electrical issues definitely are a bitch to track down.