is it running fine now after replacing those parts? did you notice the engine being hotter while it was acting up? i notice mine is hotter than normal and not because of the gauges but from having the hood up and just feeling the heat

 

Its been fine so far. Never ran hotter than normal.

 

here is some new info i got from the parts guy at the chrysler dealership,i explained everything from a-z what i replaced and everything, he told me the coolant temp sensor might have went bad causing a short somehow now going back to what i did when i replaced the t-stat i had a bit of coolant spill when i took off the hose as i didnt drain it out from the bottom anyhow the reason i replaced it in the first place was that one morning i got cel light and code for coolant not warming up within the timeframe only happened once and now all this is happening after replacing t-stat he said the gauge might not be accurate and the engine actually hotter than it is? the t-stat i took out was stuck open btw..

since day one i had a leak somewhere and it was the heater hose under the alternator replaced that about 3 months ago and i havent lost 1 drop of fluid but i do always smell coolant when i turn the truck off not sweet smell but just like a hot coolant smell the reason i mention is it might be related somehow? idk ive never had rough idling or any issues prior to this and im stumped noone knows where to begin

 

You could try disconnecting the temp sensor and see if that gets rid of the no bus message.

 

fyi or anyone who this may help somehow at the time being i connected a odb-2 reader and so far i have no current codes BUT i did get this under DTC status ''ECU-1 MIL off Spark Ignition'' everything else has a reading tps,coolant temp etc....i will try to translate what this means exactly in a bit

 

fyi ...for anyone who may see this i tried to replicate the original scenario after idling for 30-40 minutes truck shut off got no bus,within seconds i unplugged crankshaft sensor and no bus went away....i will replace it within a few days drive it and report back any issues later on...

 

That sounds like a good indication that the crank sensor is the issue then. You should be able to get to it by taking off the wheel well liner and using a ratchet with a long extension and a u joint. It plugs into the harness next to the distributor.

 

UPDATE still not fixed,

dealer ship wants $600 to replace crankshaft sensor
2 shops i asked want $400-500

i have replaced these parts ,(my brother bought them for me)i know throwing parts at it isnt generally a good idea but the truck being 15 years old all original parts on it with a rebuilt engine doesnt sound too bad

tps
map
iac
ignition coil
camshaft sensor
battery,cleaned the terminals very good
duplicated problem twice by idling the car for about 30 minutes and it would shut down and the ''no bus'' would appear

anyhow i replaced camshaft sensor,dist rotor,ignition coil,map sensor today

rpm gauge didnt jump to 1500-2000 now it went to around 1000-1200 at startup and at 600-625 on idle

coolant temp stayed at 192-195 tops and every other time before today 195-210


few days prior to this i replaced
thermostat and speed sensor reconnected the battery and was fine for 2 days

the reason i go back to all that is just to provide more info to whoever can help or will have this problem...

i do not have a multimeter or any probes to check at the moment and the pcm does not seem to get hot at all,warm yes as expected being in the engine compartment

obviously the pcm and crankshafts are the main culprits and i cant afford to pay the dealer $500 + or buy a pcm for $1200 either

im stumped now ....most mechanics ive talked to do not know anything more than i know by searching the internet

the first time it shut off today i heard the fuel pump or line(not sure) twice right when it went off and the gauges were operative and there was no total no bus at that point it wasnt until the next shut off that ,that occured

 

Holy crap thats unreasonable to charge $600 to change the crank sensor. Its tight but you can get at it through the passenger side wheel well after removing the wheel. The sensor can be had from RockAuto for about $50 and you can change it yourself in about an hour or less depending how many beers you need for lubrication. The youtube video below shows a 99 5.2 but they are very similar.

 

[QUOTE=dxloat;3227930]Holy crap thats unreasonable to charge $600 to change the crank sensor. Its tight but you can get at it through the passenger side wheel well after removing the wheel. The sensor can be had from RockAuto for about $50 and you can change it yourself in about an hour or less depending how many beers you need for lubrication. The youtube video below shows a 99 5.2 but they are very similar.

[/QUOTE

according to them its a 5 hour job at $85 an hour plus tax and fees and parts i then told them to go screw themselves,i have the part already im going to borrow or buy a jack and stand this weekend and tackle it myself, thanks for the video ive replayed it a few times doesnt seem too hard to do


i have a question as far as pcm go do you or anyone know if ''A1 cardone '' is any good? there sold by the chain guys (oreillys,autozone etc) as far as computers go they are priced cheaper than the ripoff sites ive found