Okay. I wonder if I should just get into the system and clean it out again really thoroughly first and see what happens then. Cheaper than buying a compressor. The fsm says replace the compressor with those symptoms but you know how that goes. I don't wanna jump to conclusions that quickly

 

So Ive always noticed this weird thing with my ac/heater controls. The cold/hot **** always bottoms out on cold but the cable stops it before it gets all the way to the hot side..Looked in the FSM and sure enough, Its adjustable. On the heater box side....... of course. So I took the cable off the back of the panel and snipped out some of the plastic to get the cable to go about 1/4 inch further in (towards cold). So I drive it around keeping the rpms stable at around 1500. checking the vent temp where it would have normally sat and with the cable pushed further down. 85 deg outside no sun out (8:45pm). Got down to 52 in its normal position. pushing the cable in further than normal and it got down to 41 with the same rpm and speed. I do believe that cable needs adjustment. So there is that.

I know that doesnt fix the problem with the pressures in the ac system and the noise in the rear unit, But if I had looked into this before maybe I could've saved myself the headache of doing anything to the ac system at all this summer and put it off until next.

So now I have to figure out if the kind of colder air is worth digging into the dash to move a stupid cable

 

Now I'm tempted to mess around with the cable in mine to see if that makes it work any better too. I took the Durango to Lowes earlier this morning and it was 81° out and I had 47° from the vents, so not too bad, but I think it could be better. I've been meaning to measure how cold my Charger's ac gets, but it's not even R134a any more, so I have no idea what's normal for it.

 

It might be worth a shot. And yeh the fsm says 55 is maximum allowed temperature in the center vent for 100 out. Checking temps in other people's cars and my other truck, 95 degrees out and I consistently get well under 40 degrees out of the vents. And these are all older cars too. Late 90s early 2000s cars. So I definitely think I should get down to 55 in the durango when it's 100 out I would think

 

Another thing you can try is to wrap the aluminum return lines back to the compressor. The return lines are picking up alot of unwanted heat from engine bay so it puts alot of undue burden on your A/C system.

I found some sticky rubber insulation that is heat resistant and wrap all the exposed aluminum lines all the way to the compressor. Huge improvement on the air temp coming out the vents inside. I get about 40 degrees coming out of the vent in 100+ heat outside after insulating the return lines. about 50+ before insulation.

 

Just picked up some insulation wrap I think will work. Since I ziptied my cable to full cold my vent temps are 40 or below on the highway. City driving it goes to crap. But better than nothing lol

 

I figured I would revive this since I talked about my A/C in this thread. I was blowing my ac fuse. Located a short in the magnetic solenoid wire that goes to the compressor. I dug into the wire and found this (attached picture)



I don't know.... Maybe there was a resistor in this harness that burned up and now it's a direct short? Anyway, I moved those two solid wires away from eachother and the compressor clutch works again and no fuse blowing. So what's the point of these two solid wires and are they important? I'm at a loss on this one

 

I thought it was just 2 wires going to the clutch, no idea what that is.

 

Same here. It's really odd. I don't know what it could be for

 

Your thread seems to have transitioned from an engine overheat issue, to underperforming AC. Did you ever fully resolve the overheat issue? If so, was it when you went back to the stock clutch fan setup that resolved it?