I have searched through multiple posts on the same issue, as well as on other forums, and i wanted to make my own to add some things ive already tried and other details that may help narrow the issue down, so let me start here.

I totaled my first 98 Durango 5.9l, I bought a 2002 with a blown 4.7l and dropped my 5.9l in, and another transmission with the electric transfer case in aswell as the vehicles wiring harness (98-00 used CCD wiring system and 01-03 uses BUS).

Now i know from experience as well as reading that low voltage/bad battery will cause this issue, however the battery is good, i even have it on the charger on the 20a/40a/ even the 200a setting, and the voltage is upwards of 14 when it starts however it still stalls after about 2 seconds.

Even when revving, it still stalls, but if i take starter fluid and spray it in the TB it will just keep on running, so its a fuel problem not ignition, I have tried 2 CTMs, same issue, one of the CTMs the alarm keeps going off and i know that will cause it to not stay running, with the second no alarm, still shuts off.

Fuel Rail shows 45-55 PSI, also the engine ran FINE after i totaled the 98 ( i bent the frame) i actually kicked it in to 4wd to drive it home after i totaled it, runs great.

With the voltage not being an issue, and the fuel pressure at a good place, and knowing i can keep it going if i spray starter fluid in it, where would i go from here im kind of at a loss? Any help is appreciated.

Ive checked all the harness connectors to make sure they are plugged in, as well as grounds. ECU is from the donor durango (another 5.9L 2002 SLT) since mine from the 98 uses CCD and not BUS

PS. There are no 02 sensors currently hooked up, waiting for new ones, that being said it should still run without them im pretty sure, just ****ty, plus the shutoff after 2-3 seconds is pretty consistent so im not sure if the 02 sensors would have anything to do with that or not, assuming they didnt, im trying to troubleshoot past that.

 

I know nobody else has had any information on this post but ill keep my situation updated just to help anyone else that may be having a SKIM related issue.

As an update, i have done more digging aswell as pulled a few codes, The problem seems to be the P1868 code, along with two 02 sensor codes (Hmmmm i wonder why LOL) and an oil sensor code (im sure i cracked the oil sensor when using the chain and engine hoist) but the 02 and oil pressure shouldn't cause the engine to do this, its the P1868, and it means "NO SKIM BUS MESSAGED RECEIVED" Which is why it shuts off after running 2-3 seconds.

I currently have the PCM and CTM from the donor durango that must have been equipped with the SKIM unit, in theory if i took the SKIM unit, the key, and the ignition switch/key cylinder and installed it into mine with that PCM/CTM it should run. The second CTM i have is what came in the durango with the 4.7 with NO SKIM. Since i plugged the PCM with SKIM in with the CTM without, it apparently enabled my CTM for SKIM aswell and from what i read thats not reversible, same if you had a non SKIM PCM and CTM and plugged in the immobilizer from another truck it would enable it, and cause the start/stall condition because the VINs dont match that are in the PCM/CTM with the immobilizer. Also there is a a secret code that the immobilizer is supposed to send to the PCM aswell to allow them to start and that has to match. Im not sure if any of this can be reversed with the CTM at this point, but the PCM can have the SKIM reset, and if there is a non SKIM CTM installed an no immobilizer it should start.

Apparently the donor durango had SKIM and mine does not, after pulling the covers off my steering column i see no SKIM module and the plug is there for it, not all had SKIM enabled.

I took a trip to the local Chrysler stealership today to see if they could flash my PCM/CTM he told me yes, for $59! but the service guy just worked behind the desk so it may turn out to be a hefty price for my situation. He walked me in the shop to talk to a tech they had, and i explained the issue the tech knew about SKIM but he wasnt the guy that did that, and told me he wasnt there and told me to come back tomorrow when he would be. So i will be going back there tomorrow to see what we can do about programming the PCM and hopefully the CTM so i dont have to try and find another, you cant look at it and tell if its SKIM enabled or not.



Sorry for the long post, just trying to add some helpful information for this situation.

 

Update, i went back to the dealership to talk to the shop foreman, and explained everything and he knew what the deal was i was talking about off gate. I had two ideas originally, Take the SKIM, key, and ign switch from the donor and put it in mine or try to find a non SKIM CTM and have my PCM flashed for no SKIM which they both are alot of work considering the donor is 2 hours away and i hate ign switches.

The foreman told me to just put the donor SKIM in mine with the PCM and CTM that went with it, and either A. take the key from the donor if they still have it and just tape it to your key so you can start it and we can make new keys, or B. if they dont have the key, tow it here and get new keys for your cylinder that are programmed to that SKIM. So im going to pickup the SKIM here soon from the donor, as well as the key if its still there, then get them to program some new keys and hopefully all is well.

Will keep posted!

 

You just need a donor SKIM, BUT....you need the VIN from the donor to get the correct SKIM number. OR, just buy a new one and make up a PIN number. You can use any 4 digits you like. I would use the year model. The dealer can use the PCM REPLACED on the DRB and make it work. It will also change the VIN in the PCM.

 

If i got another random SKIM, i dont think id need the donor VIN i would just need it programmed to the PCM/CTM with my vehicles VIN (as long as the VIN matches shouldnt matter what VIN it is, unless req for inspection). The VIN should just need to match in all three devices, then once the PCM has been set with the SKIM CLEAR option, as long as the SKIM is unhooked before i hook the PCM, the SKIM should reprogram to it once thats plugged back in afterwards from my understanding, or either that will be ready to be programmed aswell, im still learning please correct if wrong.


I think this way is easier though because i still have access to my donor, so i can get that SKIM and call it a day getting it to atleast run (hopefully), if he doesnt have the key ill just have to tow it to get new ones cut, and then can change the VIN in all the devices if they need to, i dont think its required for inspection for the VIN in those devices to match here, not sure.

 

The Pin number used for the handshake needs to be from the SKIM vin that you are using. The PCM is the one getting forced into a change. There is no DRB option to go the other way because the menu is in the SKIM. I do tons of these "frankencars" for used dealers here in TN. They can get away with selling rebuilt JUNK to the general public and not have to disclose. You wouldn't believe some of the crap they try.

 

I could believe it haha! so far the only issue with my franken truck is the P1686

 

Well i went down to visit the donor durango the other day, i pulled the SKIM and luckily the key was still with the truck!!! So i grabbed it (grey key) and headed own home to try it out. After about a 2 hour and 15 minute drive i arrive, plug it in, tape that key to my key backwards so it would be close and started it and VOILA! it ran longer than 2-3 seconds and the only codes i have are for both O2 sensors which i dont even have so that explains that and i just need new keys made!!!!!

Unfortunately i had already had issues with my shift linkage not working properly with the 46RE, i cant get all the gears nor get it into park, im assuming the cables are different between the 45RFE and 46RE transmissions... i thought it was just the mounting bracket for it on the trans not the cable so i only grabbed the bracket off the donor and all that does is move the cable down because the levers are different heights in the 98-00 durangos than in the 01-03's iirc. So ill have to spend over $100 on a new cable or make a 2+ hour drive to get that one But im just happy my frankenrango runs!!!

With my column covers off i have the cable eyelet unhooked from the shifter handle so i can move it out of the "lock" position when i put the key in, once i move it down i push the cable on the eyelet and can go into R,N,D, and thats it. I can shift the tranny by hand and i have already adjusted the cable in the column so i know it has to be the cable, The one off my old 98 is different, but if i do it by hand i can still drive it i just have to mess with the cable behind the steering wheel every time i wanna park/drive/rev/take the key out until i get a new cable.

 

I am having the exact same issue, I have an 01 with a 360 ("5.9") and my computer went bad. I had it rebuilt and it lasted a very short time and I started having the same issues with other cylinders (injector driver circuit)
So I did a search online and found another out of another 01 with the same engine (the junkyards are loaded with 4.7 equipped rigs) I had this computer shipped and installed it, and same thing... start and quit. start and quit. so I just sent both computers out (the original and the junkyard replacement) to see if I can get 1 good one back that will run my truck. The original one has a life time warranty, I am hoping to get both my original back in working order and the junkyard one after having been reprogrammed for my SKIM and CTM. We will see....

I talked to a dealer mechanic buddy the night I put the junkyard one in there and he told me a story of a 01 Gr Cherokee that he recently worked on at work, that computer is NLA from mopar so they sourced one online that was advertised as plug and play, pre programmed to the required VIN, etc. It took them 4x of shipping back and forth, each time it came back it had a different issue than the previous time. IDK what outfit they used, he did say it was the cheapest one they found in an online search......
He also said that if '99-older you can get one from a like year and model at the yard, and it is plug n play....