Informative thread here, not looking for answers, though feel free to post comments as you wish. I could find NO information online about the rear quarter glass on these trucks. Mine has leaked for the 5 years I've owned the truck at both windows and I've never fixed it because I didn't know what held them in.

So I finally decided to tackle it yesterday. Looked at my FSM and was pleased to find out they're not urethane glued in. Just butyl tape. FSM says to cut it with a razor blade and pop the window out, no problem right? Well that doesn't work. There are 8 studs, and the butyl tape goes around the outside of them so you can't cut it. Luckily, I've built a few sets of headlights and know that heating butyl softens it up. I left the two front and two rear nuts on but loose so the window wouldn't fall out. So I took a heat gun (be very careful if you have window tint using a heat gun) and I ran it around the front lower edge of the pinch weld and the front of the glass came out. Then I ran it around the rear/upper section of the window and it popped out. It was actually pretty easy. I cut the majority of it but that just made clean up harder, I think when I do the passenger side window (waiting on more Butyl) I'm going to use a heat gun only and see if that works.

I did not go back with Butyl Tape, I used 3M window weld ribbon sealer. 1/4". I'll update with the longevity of this but I can't see why it would give me any problems. Below will be a bunch of pictures.

NOTE: If you use a razor blade, make sure you're cutting the butyl tape. The glass has a molded rubber "frame" permanently attached to it, don't cut that frame. You want to cut in between that frame and the body pinch weld, that's where your butyl tape is.

Also, FSM says 40 inch pounds on the nuts. I would do a criss cross pattern multiple times to the 40 inch pounds. I don't have a torque wrench that small so I just guessed


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