1999 Durango 5.2 RWAL. Brake pedal free travel is excessive. I have brakes, but they engage too low on the pedal for comfort.

I've replaced all brake lines over the past few years, and they seem well bled. There is no "pump up" on the engagement point. Pads and shoes are <3 yrs old with low annual use. No external leaks or reservoir drop.

For several years the "ABS" and "Brake" warning lamps have come on at start, with good brakes. This has been intermittent. But I'm loosing ground on pedal travel to the point where I have to take action.

My knee jerk is to replace the master cyl. I suspect the primary piston is gone, and the secondary is failing fast.

Before I replace the master, are there any suggestions?
Thanks,
Dave

 

I'd start by making sure the rear drums are properly adjusted.

 

like said above. Probably rear brakes, self adjusters not working or put together wrong. I don't care what price point you buy or from where except for this, do not buy duralast gold from autozone. I bought a set and they measure the same O/d as the new drum I/d,adjusted all the way in, which is too big. I could spend 10 minutes explaining it but bottom line is same size to same size is a press fit, it will not work. I have only run into this with Duralast gold, just avoid them. When you do your rear brakes go to oriellys and for 24 bucks buy the full hardware kit for the brakes, 12 bucks a wheel is cheap for new cables, adjusters and springs.

 

I replaced my '99 Durango's master cylinder trying to get to the bottom of the brake pedal going nearly to the bottom. (earlier post). Even after bleeding the cylinder prior to assembly, I had plenty of air in the system. And the wife and her right foot were out of town for a few days. After viewing You Tube videos on making a garden sprayer pressure bleeder, I got the gist.

I took my old reservoir cap, laid a layer of epoxy to seal the vent, cut a air inlet hole in the gasket and fitted a tank valve. Then I snuck up on the compressor regulator until I got 12-15 psi. Good brakes. High pedal grab. Success. I'll never know if it was air all along or a worn master cylinder. And I don't care.

After I got over the afterglow of a double DIY victory, I've decided to buy Harbor Freight's venturi vacuum wheel bleeder next time.

 

The pressure bleeder works much better than the vacuum bleeder of you ask me. I find that the vacuum bleeders suck air about the bleeder threads and you never know if the bubbles you see are actually from the brake lines or not.

 

yep.. get a pressure bleeder. I have a mity vac vacuum brake bleeder and its ok but it won't fix air in the master...pressure bleeder is the best choice. motive makes a inexpensive pressure bleeder kit

 

While not the usual reason and often overlooked is wheel bearing runout. If the front wheel bearings are loose enough to allow movement it will cause the pads to be pushed back further than needed requiring a couple pumps to firm up properly. As I said, not a usual reason but should be checked.

 

Didn't think to ask, but now that you brought that up if the op hits the brakes and then lets up and hits the pedal again right away dies it go down as far in the 2nd pump as the 1st? Might help tell if that might be part of the problem, but same test could mean rear drums out of adjustment.
If the pedal is better on the 2nd pump then jack up the front wheels and grab the tire top and bottom, give it a good shake, if you feel any play, the wheel bearing is shot