Is it an Intake Manifold Gasket a Blown Head Gasket or a Cracked Cylinder Head?
#11
#12
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Cm3geese (10-03-2020)
#14
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Got it!
Pressure tested again at 15lbs with UV Dye twice and let it bleed down for 4 hours. Came back and hit it with a UV light and bingo. Not any of the thought issues. I came to be a minor issue. The overflow line where it goes into the over flow tank has a leak. Off to the parts store in the a.m. for a replacement hose. What a relief. No other leaks detected.
Thank You to everyone! I will let you know if this is not the end to this issue.
Pressure tested again at 15lbs with UV Dye twice and let it bleed down for 4 hours. Came back and hit it with a UV light and bingo. Not any of the thought issues. I came to be a minor issue. The overflow line where it goes into the over flow tank has a leak. Off to the parts store in the a.m. for a replacement hose. What a relief. No other leaks detected.
Thank You to everyone! I will let you know if this is not the end to this issue.
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#15
#16
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Leaks are gone the Durango is now over heating at speeds lower than 30 MPH and when idling with AC on?
Any Ideas
I am thinking of flushing the system not sure if I want to do the full system regular flow flush through the entire system or to back flush the heater cores it has two. For some reason I am getting no heat to the drivers feet. Not sure what to think of this? Heater cores need flushed? The blend door is broken? Any ideas?
Any Ideas
I am thinking of flushing the system not sure if I want to do the full system regular flow flush through the entire system or to back flush the heater cores it has two. For some reason I am getting no heat to the drivers feet. Not sure what to think of this? Heater cores need flushed? The blend door is broken? Any ideas?
#17
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Did you bleed the cooling system? Raise the front end and run with radiator cap off, topping off as you go along. Also check to see if your fan is working.
Another thing. Glad you found it, but you didn't find that overflow leak by pressure testing. A pressure tester's cap replaces the radiator cap and has no path to the overflow, else it wouldn't build pressure. The overflow is never pressurized anyway. Last time I checked, coolant glows under UV light without the need for dye. At least the green stuff does.
Another thing. Glad you found it, but you didn't find that overflow leak by pressure testing. A pressure tester's cap replaces the radiator cap and has no path to the overflow, else it wouldn't build pressure. The overflow is never pressurized anyway. Last time I checked, coolant glows under UV light without the need for dye. At least the green stuff does.
Last edited by Dodgevity; 10-05-2020 at 09:28 AM.
#18
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Did you bleed the cooling system? Raise the front end and run with radiator cap off, topping off as you go along. Also check to see if your fan is working.
Another thing. Glad you found it, but you didn't find that overflow leak by pressure testing. A pressure tester's cap replaces the radiator cap and has no path to the overflow, else it wouldn't build pressure. The overflow is never pressurized anyway. Last time I checked, coolant glows under UV light without the need for dye. At least the green stuff does.
Another thing. Glad you found it, but you didn't find that overflow leak by pressure testing. A pressure tester's cap replaces the radiator cap and has no path to the overflow, else it wouldn't build pressure. The overflow is never pressurized anyway. Last time I checked, coolant glows under UV light without the need for dye. At least the green stuff does.
I am going to flush the system and burp it again as well hoping this takes care of it.
#19
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Just make sure the front end is higher than the rear when you burp it. Turn temp dial all the way hot. (Might not matter as I don't think you have a valve, but it doesn't hurt)