1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

98 Durango no spark

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 22, 2021 | 05:42 PM
  #21  
DeliriousCM's Avatar
DeliriousCM
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by that_guy
If you're getting spark to the distributor but not out of it, it's got to be a problem with the distributor. Did the parts store give you the wrong cap and rotor? Did they give you a bad cap and rotor? Look for witness marks on the button of the rotor where it's touching the distributor cap. Make sure if you hold up the rotor in the cap and that it's anywhere close to the contacts. Make sure there isn't a short or something in the cap or rotor that's grounding the spark somewhere else.
I've checked that rotor and cap so many times now, they are making contact and I don't believe there's a short anywhere else. I replaced the Distributor Pickup Coil as well. What else should I be looking at to be shorting out?
 
Reply
Old Jan 22, 2021 | 05:59 PM
  #22  
that_guy's Avatar
that_guy
Champion
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,099
Likes: 44
From: Pittsburgh, PA or Columbia, SC
Default

I'd be checking the rotor to make sure the spark isn't jumping into the distributor shaft or something. Unless the spark is just so weak that it can't jump the gap of the cap and rotor it's got to be going somewhere. That sensor in the distributor tells the pcm which half of the stoke the engine is on. I believe 180deg of the rotation of the cam the sensor is activated and the other half it isn't. That combined with knowing where the engine is via the crank sensor is enough to tell if a cylinder is on a compression or exhaust stroke.
 
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2021 | 02:27 PM
  #23  
DeliriousCM's Avatar
DeliriousCM
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by that_guy
I'd be checking the rotor to make sure the spark isn't jumping into the distributor shaft or something. Unless the spark is just so weak that it can't jump the gap of the cap and rotor it's got to be going somewhere. That sensor in the distributor tells the pcm which half of the stoke the engine is on. I believe 180deg of the rotation of the cam the sensor is activated and the other half it isn't. That combined with knowing where the engine is via the crank sensor is enough to tell if a cylinder is on a compression or exhaust stroke.
I've had time to look into it more, and it seems the Coils I've purchased (2 different ones now) have been doing NOTHING. The original coil I took off was a very weak spark but the 2 new ones do nothing. What controls the coil? I'm clueless at this point and hopeless.
 
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2021 | 02:43 PM
  #24  
that_guy's Avatar
that_guy
Champion
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,099
Likes: 44
From: Pittsburgh, PA or Columbia, SC
Default

The pcm controls the coil via the crank sensor and cam sensors. If you bought store brand coils from the parts store, return them and get a good one. The ones the parts stores sell are junk. Napa is about the only parts store that sells decent stuff anymore.
 
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2021 | 06:59 PM
  #25  
DeliriousCM's Avatar
DeliriousCM
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by that_guy
The pcm controls the coil via the crank sensor and cam sensors. If you bought store brand coils from the parts store, return them and get a good one. The ones the parts stores sell are junk. Napa is about the only parts store that sells decent stuff anymore.
What brand do you recommend? All the ones on napa look like cheap knockoffs as well
 
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2021 | 07:25 PM
  #26  
that_guy's Avatar
that_guy
Champion
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,099
Likes: 44
From: Pittsburgh, PA or Columbia, SC
Default

Originally Posted by DeliriousCM
What brand do you recommend? All the ones on napa look like cheap knockoffs as well
Factory mopar, accel, msd, ngk, etc would be good choices. Standard motor, ultra power, duralast, etc should be avoided like the plague.

I have an accel on my truck. I have some other one in the back as a spare for emergencies, but wouldnt trust it for daily use. The amount of crap aftermarket parts out there anymore is rediculous.
 
Reply
Old Apr 1, 2021 | 08:50 PM
  #27  
DeliriousCM's Avatar
DeliriousCM
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by that_guy
Factory mopar, accel, msd, ngk, etc would be good choices. Standard motor, ultra power, duralast, etc should be avoided like the plague.

I have an accel on my truck. I have some other one in the back as a spare for emergencies, but wouldnt trust it for daily use. The amount of crap aftermarket parts out there anymore is rediculous.
This saved my life. Lol NGK worked like a charm..it was the coil. Bought 1 off Rockauto (lol) and 1 from autozone neither worked. Thank you!
 
Reply
Old Apr 1, 2021 | 09:16 PM
  #28  
that_guy's Avatar
that_guy
Champion
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,099
Likes: 44
From: Pittsburgh, PA or Columbia, SC
Default

Glad that worked. Cheap electrical parts can really bite you. I've had parts store coils, throttle position sensors, crank sensors, o2 sensors, etc all be bad out of the box or die very quickly after installing. With that kind of stuff it's worth the extra money to avoid the hassle.
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:23 AM.