Misfire #5....any advice?
#11
RE: Misfire #5....any advice?
Yes I changed the accel 9000 wires out for OEM's and got the same results so I returned the OEM's. They had 20 times the resistance than the Accel[:-]
I wish my problem was just the wires - ended up being a blown head gasket.
The whole process convinced me to build a supercharged 360 stroked to 400 for summer.
I wish my problem was just the wires - ended up being a blown head gasket.
The whole process convinced me to build a supercharged 360 stroked to 400 for summer.
#13
RE: Misfire #5....any advice?
I have a similar problem but it got compunded real quick... #4 and #6 mis fire because the check engine light came on and it was so rough at idle it would rock the whole vehicle. So new sparkplugs and wires right? installed them light still on but to be expected, howver the violent rocking at idle was gone and it purred smoothly. Went up the road about 4 miles to get gas nothing wrong it's still running just fine. turn it off get gas start heading down 19 and it's a whopping 28 degrees outside so I turn on the heater.... No heat... It worked on the way up there, and out of no where temp goes from around 180 through 260 things are flashing and pinging pull over hit the hazards shut it down. Some how, for mysterious reasons I cannot explain the coolant was gone. I limp it back to a McDonalds about 400 yards at a time over the course of 45 minutes. Reinspect my wiring job wires and plugs are good. Think it might be a thermostat? Or did the people who repaired below screw up my cooling system? Never seena drop of coolant come out of that vehicle oil although needing a change, is normal.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y22...C/HPIM1159.jpg
after.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y22...C/HPIM1169.jpg
I still can hear a noise like somthing is hitting the black box to the right of the radiator as I have been told cools transmission fluid. The day after I got it back from the shop the trans temp light came on and the engine was over heating, took it back they put more antifreeze in didn't have a problem until this last one and they want me to take it to a dealership to have it inspected before they'll touch it. I'm a Marine and a full time student I ain't got it to spare. Any Suggestions?
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y22...C/HPIM1159.jpg
after.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y22...C/HPIM1169.jpg
I still can hear a noise like somthing is hitting the black box to the right of the radiator as I have been told cools transmission fluid. The day after I got it back from the shop the trans temp light came on and the engine was over heating, took it back they put more antifreeze in didn't have a problem until this last one and they want me to take it to a dealership to have it inspected before they'll touch it. I'm a Marine and a full time student I ain't got it to spare. Any Suggestions?
#14
RE: Misfire #5....any advice?
ORIGINAL: 1 bad durango
i could suggest a great blower cam and heads if u do decide to go 408 stroker
i could suggest a great blower cam and heads if u do decide to go 408 stroker
By all means any info would be great. I'm looking for primarily more power across the board but still need good idle and drivability.
The powerdyne SC is what I'm considering currently so I'm talking only 6 lbs boost. I would just bolt one on my 360 but judging by my elevated compression readings I must have some carbon build up which needs to be attended to so a complete clean up and rebuild is in order anyway. That being the case it's worthwhile building the stroker on the side and keeping the D on the road with the 360 while doing so.
#15
RE: Misfire #5....any advice?
ORIGINAL: Durango_USMC
I have a similar problem but it got compunded real quick... #4 and #6 mis fire because the check engine light came on and it was so rough at idle it would rock the whole vehicle. So new sparkplugs and wires right? installed them light still on but to be expected, howver the violent rocking at idle was gone and it purred smoothly. Went up the road about 4 miles to get gas nothing wrong it's still running just fine. turn it off get gas start heading down 19 and it's a whopping 28 degrees outside so I turn on the heater.... No heat... It worked on the way up there, and out of no where temp goes from around 180 through 260 things are flashing and pinging pull over hit the hazards shut it down. Some how, for mysterious reasons I cannot explain the coolant was gone. I limp it back to a McDonalds about 400 yards at a time over the course of 45 minutes. Reinspect my wiring job wires and plugs are good. Think it might be a thermostat? Or did the people who repaired below screw up my cooling system? Never seena drop of coolant come out of that vehicle oil although needing a change, is normal.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y22...C/HPIM1159.jpg
after.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y22...C/HPIM1169.jpg
I still can hear a noise like somthing is hitting the black box to the right of the radiator as I have been told cools transmission fluid. The day after I got it back from the shop the trans temp light came on and the engine was over heating, took it back they put more antifreeze in didn't have a problem until this last one and they want me to take it to a dealership to have it inspected before they'll touch it. I'm a Marine and a full time student I ain't got it to spare. Any Suggestions?
I have a similar problem but it got compunded real quick... #4 and #6 mis fire because the check engine light came on and it was so rough at idle it would rock the whole vehicle. So new sparkplugs and wires right? installed them light still on but to be expected, howver the violent rocking at idle was gone and it purred smoothly. Went up the road about 4 miles to get gas nothing wrong it's still running just fine. turn it off get gas start heading down 19 and it's a whopping 28 degrees outside so I turn on the heater.... No heat... It worked on the way up there, and out of no where temp goes from around 180 through 260 things are flashing and pinging pull over hit the hazards shut it down. Some how, for mysterious reasons I cannot explain the coolant was gone. I limp it back to a McDonalds about 400 yards at a time over the course of 45 minutes. Reinspect my wiring job wires and plugs are good. Think it might be a thermostat? Or did the people who repaired below screw up my cooling system? Never seena drop of coolant come out of that vehicle oil although needing a change, is normal.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y22...C/HPIM1159.jpg
after.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y22...C/HPIM1169.jpg
I still can hear a noise like somthing is hitting the black box to the right of the radiator as I have been told cools transmission fluid. The day after I got it back from the shop the trans temp light came on and the engine was over heating, took it back they put more antifreeze in didn't have a problem until this last one and they want me to take it to a dealership to have it inspected before they'll touch it. I'm a Marine and a full time student I ain't got it to spare. Any Suggestions?
The sound your hearing usually occurs when your system is over pressure and is venting coolant or steam as it may be in an overheated motor to your coolant resevoir. You'll hear the same sound if you slowly loosen your rad cap (carefully with gloves on) just after running the engine to operating temp. This doesn't normally happen in a properly filled system at operating temps and rad cap sealed but I imagine if you were very low on coolant the remaining coolant would boil and be forced out of the system into the resevoir as steam making the noise you heard.
Sounds like you may be losing your coolant not to the oil but to your combustion chamber as I was. My leak was quite small and very little coolant loss was associated with it but enough was blown into the #5 cylinder to cause a missfire and give the exhaust a faint sweet smell at idle. As operating temp is reached a small crack can be closed by expansion and the missing can get less noticable as mine did.
One way to find out if your problem is a head gasket or general block/head cooling leak is to put some "Bars leaks" in your cooling system and see if the missing and overheating goes away. This is only a temporary fix but it will tell you where to start looking. I changed every ignition component on mine without needing to (except coil was needed) and wasted a lot of money when it turned out the head gasket was to blame. If you do find out that the bar's leaks works for you you should either replace the head gasket or cracked block/head (god forbid), or consider trying one of the sodium silicate "block sealer" products.
Also if your not a do it youselfer you will want to get a shop to do a compression leak down test and cooling system pressure test to pinpoint the problem. This could save you a lot of hunting around but will cost you a few bucks. A regular compression test probably will not tell the whole story but if two adjecent cylinders show low compression it is usually a head gasket problem as it was in my case.
Or I could be totally wrong....this is just how things went with my D.
#16
RE: Misfire #5....any advice?
Actually you were pretty close they got it in today, thermostat is fried shut, replaced it same problem still exists. but when they were taking it off the hauler the manager found coolant leaking out the exhaust. Prognosis is blown head (or many) or head gasket. So in conclusion due to this problem amongst nearly a hundred others and dwindling funds. I'm sad to say I'm going to have to sell it.
Just a note about it sat for 2 days and still had enough to blow the coolant we put in there all over the mechanic (it was cold luckily),
Just a note about it sat for 2 days and still had enough to blow the coolant we put in there all over the mechanic (it was cold luckily),
#17
RE: Misfire #5....any advice?
Before you sell it, consider if you can come up with the cash in the future and get by for now with just a temporary fix using a sodium silicate treatment. Whatever the repair is going to cost you're going to lose in resale value left unfixed anyway.
One product to cosider is something called steel seal.
They make big claims and even if it allows you to operate untill you get some cash it's worth it.
http://www.steelseal.com/eng/home.html
For @ $100 plus new coolant you're likely good to go for a while.
Just a thought.
BTW replacing the head gaskets isn't a huge deal. Get a quote.
Also if you can get a reputable shop to do a cylinder leak down test to pinpoint the problem.
In the meantime, try a $4 bottle of Bar's leaks sealer. It worked for me for a week or so and confirmed that it was a cooling breach in the system.
One product to cosider is something called steel seal.
They make big claims and even if it allows you to operate untill you get some cash it's worth it.
http://www.steelseal.com/eng/home.html
For @ $100 plus new coolant you're likely good to go for a while.
Just a thought.
BTW replacing the head gaskets isn't a huge deal. Get a quote.
Also if you can get a reputable shop to do a cylinder leak down test to pinpoint the problem.
In the meantime, try a $4 bottle of Bar's leaks sealer. It worked for me for a week or so and confirmed that it was a cooling breach in the system.
#18
RE: Misfire #5....any advice?
if you decide on a blower check out ati procharger,they come with a intercooler,remember that for every 1 lb of boost you increase the charge temp(air going in the motor)by about 20-30 degrees above outside temp so roughly 6 lbs will be 120-180 above the outside temp and nothing kills hp more than heat. but with the intercooler from ati 8 lbs of boost will only raise the charge temp by 30 degrees. as for a cam krcperformance makes a blower cam 210b is the number,on my dodge with 2.02 ported and polished heads and that cam(plus m1 intake manifold,1.6 roller rockers,nascar pushrods,mallory digital ignition box)i do 331.7 hp and 368.9 lbs on the dyno,if i put on a 8lb ati procharger it will increase to 480-500 hp at the wheels and you dont have to retard timing.
#19
#20
RE: Misfire #5....any advice?
I'd love to keep it but I can't stand to drop a thousand every three months on it as it's been. ball joints and hug assemblies, brakes and tires I cna understand but because it's a 99 I got screwed by chrysler in the recalls. I've already had to have a rebuilt 5.9 put in it... 2 months after I got it cause of a crack in the intake manifold or something. I've Just had it with the 99 dodge durango when it works it works beautifully and I love it but the operative words in there is when it works. I just can't stand, afford, or use a vehicle that is not going to be reliable for me anymore and still needs thousands more in work done to it. still needs lower ball joints, idler arm, pitman arm, tie rods, shocks, rotors.... the list goes on. I have nothing against dodge and I really love the company and the vehicles they produce and I know I just got stiffed with this one. I would like to replace this with another Dodge preferably Durango, Ram, or Dakota Not necessrily in that order). I have about 10k to spend on something reliable and coverd in recalls. Any suggestions would be great I'm still researching it though.