So I have been working on a 2003 5.9 R/T that has AWD. I have two issues and they may or may not be related. Truck has been up on stands for 6 months while I worked on it. ABS light is on and now I just saw that the brake light is on.

The brake light is back on. Originally, I believe it was caused because the foot brake cable to the back was just not being used and had gotten rusted. I sprayed the cable in the rear and it went away. Since I have the car up on stands, I put it into drive and reverse. Looks like my front driver caliper is stuck now. I was able to loosen it like the others, but when put it into drive and reverse it just doesn't move unlike the other 3 wheels. Will a stuck caliper cause the brake light to remain "on"? Before putting it up on stands the brake light was not on. It hasn't been driven in 6 months and wheels haven't been moved.

Second issue is the ABS lights is on. Codes were pulled with a wi-tech. ABS code 41 42 45 46 51 52:
Code detail below:
41 = Right Front Isolation Solenoid Open
42 = Right Front Dump Solenoid Open
45 = Left Front Isolation Solenoid Open
46 = Left Front Dump Solenoid Open
51 = Rear Isolation Solenoid Open
52 = Rear Dump Solenoid Open

The chassis diagnosis manual is pretty useless, it just says to check for power and ground at the cab, if they are present to change the module. The truck is AWD. I am still waiting for a break in the weather before checking for power and ground. Fuses on the inside checked out.

 

That's essentially ever solenoid in there.... I find it hard to believe they all failed at once. Verify your abs fuses are good, I do believe there are some under the hood as well, and maybe a relay.

 

Just an update checked both the 10amp mini fuse at the box and the 40amp in the PDC. Both are fine. Disconnected the connector that leads in the ABS CAB and double checked the power wires and the ground wires. Checked the ground wires near the battery and the one by the driver side frame near the upper ball joints all good.

 

That's just weird. All three of them failing at the same time is extremely unlikely.... I would suspect an internal problem..... but, no idea how to test for that.

 

@HeyYou yup I agree with you very strange.

Since its been months since I worked on this, I decided to connect my witech (running DRB III emulator) and start fresh. I can't recall if I did this last time or just used my regular autel scanner (which can get abs codes). Good thing I did because either something changed or I didn't use the witech originally.

Pulled 2 different codes and got rid of one. Went into the software and I was able to cycle the abs actuators (similar sound to when your anti-locks kick on) I tested all and they all cycled and made noise. (Screen shot below)

The new ones are for the front left sensor and the rear sensor. So I am going to see if I can test signal and ground from those tomorrow. Ircc the side of the sensor is when you are sitting

• Code 26 - No signal from left front sensor
• Code 36 - No signal from rear sensor
• Code 41 - Right Front Isolation Solenoid Open
• Code 51 - Rear Isolation Solenoid Open
• Code 52 - Rear Dump Solenoid Open

So first thing I am going to check on is the left front (believe that's driver side) for an ACC signal. There is a positive and negative sine signal that goes to the CAB.

Actuator Tested (all made sounds):

• 
  
  

 

That just adds to the mystery.

Let us know what ya find.

 

Ok another update. So I pulled the abs cab module. lucky I had a spare with the same model number. I did notice in the witech that the vin wasn't matched correctly. I got the same error though. So that eliminated the cab. Tested all the wires going into the cab for power and ground. Tested both the front wires for breaks as well. Everything had continuity.

Put the old cab back in. At this point I was like let me run the car for a bit since I had it up on stands. The front drivers rotor was stuck because it wouldn't spin. So while doing that test, the ABS and brake light went off. Not sure how or why at this point. I rebuilt the caliper and got the drivers side piston working again. No codes so far on that front.

I bled the brake using the witech command which was successful.