I have seen some shops recommend replacing the Upper and lower control arms rather then replacing the Bushings and Ball joints. The reason is new ones come with new bushings and ball joints already installed.
I am curious as to the forums opinion regarding this, I have never replaced the bushings before so no idea how complicated this task is But I was wanting to install the Red (My mind went blank as to the bushing material) Instead of using the OEM Rubber style bushings
is it a pain to press in those bushings I do not have a Shop press only a small Manual operated Arbor Press I think it is called.
Just curious as to your opinions, I am correct in thinking the aftermarket red bushings are a better option then the OEM rubber ones ? as well as I should probably replace the ones on the Rears (Leaf springs) and while I am at it replace the F&R Sway arm bushings just so I have all basis covered as far as bushings go
Again thanks in advance for the help

 

Polyurethane.

They are stiffer than rubber, so, you might get a slightly harsher ride, but, more accurate steering. They make black ones as well, that are graphite impregnated.... Are they 'better'? Don't have an answer for that.... but, I suspect they would allow the suspension to move a bit easier.

Having a real press is pretty much a requirement for removing/installing control arm bushings..... It is doable without one, but, it is significantly more work.....

 

You know that was something that has puzzled me for some time now is the way the control arms are dang near impossible to move by hand once installed, I would think having the arms and bushings pivot nice smooth and easily would in turn allow better suspension feel and stability.
The Grey ones are the only Graphite impregnated ones? Polyurethane iones are greasable correct? (Funny my 1970 D20 Motorhome has Grease fittings on every single thing that even remotely thinks it may pivot or rotate, Tie ends, King Pins, U joints, Brake lever, every single Leaf bushing
We hit a Gnarly Pot Crater (About 6" or more in depth and about same in width) and I swear I hear something sounding different when we hoi smaller ones now, Good Old Oregon just letting Craters appear no matter what street you are on.
Plus I believe the entire front end Control; arms and all bushings are original so 25 years old probably good idea to get them replaced.
I may have to find a way to get my hands on a decent Press then. I do have a friend who is in a car club with a kid whos dad owns a tires shop/ auto repair shop so I may be able to use that one.

 

That's why you don't tighten control arm bolts unless the vehicle is sitting on the suspension.

An old Jaguar I had, had tapered bearings (greaseable) on the suspension parts. And that was a 77....... That was a surprise. Of course, the car was a rustbucket, and only good for parts. Sat in a field too long. Unibody, and there was very little structure left to it. It was totally UNsafe to drive.

 

Just a follow up with a statement you made here, you said do not tighten the control arm bolts until the vehicle is sitting on the suspension? Do you mean all 4 of them(Per side) 2 lower bolts and 2 upper bolts (not the 2 caster camber adjustment bolts just the actual bolts that hold the bushings? I guess actually it is bolts on the bottom and nuts on each end of the upper control arm pivot shafts?

Interesting as the Energy suspension instructions say to torque those down then install arm into suspension assembly
I got myself a Ball Joint/U-Joint/Bushing 24 Pc Master press kit that has more cups and sleeves then I will ever use and so far has worked fantastic on the rear Leaf Bushings.

I wish i had a way to position or hold my phone or camera so I could record the work be cool to share what i come across as long as I can find a way to beep out my occasional vocal opinion

Ha I just figured it out i can zip ty tt to my large camera tripod that should work

 

so this is just ridiculous and why I think techs/mechanics and the engineers or designers have such a friendship
So the front rear leaf spring bolt on the Drivers side hits the fuel tank about 1//2 or so out of hanger so you cannot drop leaf's ( I found a way past that via brute force butt kicking AIR HAMMER TIME. I win this one but the kicker is the factory installed tow hitch thing is mounted to the frame in such a way I cannot remove the shackle to frame bolt without removing the hitch thing
Looks like oh id say 8-8 pr more bolts that I can clearly see have never moved an inch since 2000. so I can just not replace the shackle bushing ( YA no that's doing a job half A**.
and I hate laying in the same place where the gutters drain into the street on my back.
Good thing I have a Air compressor, Air chisels, die grinders, burrs, cutoff wheels, huge *** hammers bottles of B Blaster bolt manipulator fluid but i di not have a torch so that kind of may be detrimental not sure got tired of being rained on so called it a afternoon/eve

ill hit is as soon as I can legally make a crap ton of noise and see what happens.