hey hydra- the only P code that showeded up during this whole deal was P0172 or whatever one that says it is too rich on bank 1 so would that need the 02 sensor on bank 1 and which one would be bank one- thanks hammer

 

i just changed my bumper and nothing to it if you have someone with small hands to get into small areas. but other than the small bolts holding the steel piece and plastic pc together and stripping those little heads it is not bad. i bought new screws and those slide-on things that are threaded just to save time and money. the total cost for those things were under 3 dollars..
thanks
hammer

 

Hammer start a new thread on the bumper......Thanks

Actually we should all start a new thread because this one is on the TPS and nothing else......

Anyway, bank 1 is the drivers side, and too lean tells me it is the pre-cat sensor like I said which again sounds like your problem. It sounds like you are burning rich on the drivers side and that unburned fuel is collecting on you CAT as it is supposed to. Problem is there is too much and it ignites and back fires out the exhaust.

 

So I am planning on changing the TPS tomorrow thanks to you guys and this forum. I see that I have to disconnect the battery while doing this and then before i connect it back, turn the key to start for 60 secs and then plug the battery back in? What is the purpose of that? Just wondering.

thanks

 

Ok, so it is 8:55am and I already changed the TPS on my 01 Durango R/T. All I can say is you guys and this forum is freakin awesome! I took it on a drive and not one hesitation. First thing I noticed was the idle, so much smoother. Then driving was like driving in a cloud! I did a full tune up with Thundervolt 8.2mm and OEM copper plugs gaped at .044 like I believe hydroshocker had suggested and man does thing thing run like a dream! New breaks, rotors, and tires too. All I need to do now is replace the front bearing hubs and I am golden! Yeah, the driver side is bad, so I figure if I'm gonna do it, do it all the way. Just the way I do things.

Thanks again for everything. Still not sure why the turning of the key for 60secs while battery is unplugged, but I really don't care at this point. It worked!!!!

 

Turning the key,I believe stepping on the brake pedal is another method...these things discharge capacitors in the pcm and other modules,for you it's the pcm to clear codes.Some thing you should do,(along with a 2-5 minute wait time) before any dash or sterring wheel service so you don't trip the air bags....

 

spark plug gap is .040 not .044, you should pull and regap the plugs as it DOES make a difference.

 

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-ignition.html

Check out that link above from a thread where Hydra said that the gap I mentioned, .044 actually seemed to run better without fouling.

 

Just to update, I did just drive about 150 miles with the new plugs gaped .044, new wires (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-84276/), new distributor cap and rotor, new TPS and it ran amazing. Mostly highway, but some back roads and got 14.8 mpg. WAY better than before, which was 10.5 at best! Next is the air filter. Getting a HP as soon as I get back home on Thursday!

 

Thanks for that info laz.