I am surprised that the level from the bottom of the diff to the plug is about 2 liters. I guess that is why I was having problems believing that was the fill cap as well. Its my inexperience in this area showing its head. I may pass on the pump. I got 2 liters of oil and the bottles have a one inch nipple on them. It should make filling "relitively" easy.


One last question, It was answered already I think, but I just want to clarify. I got 2 liters of oil that specifically states for limited slip (which is what I have), but I do need a friction modifier as well ?

I must thank you guys for your advice though. Even though I am on old hand when it comes to the internet I am always skeptical that I would get the support you have shown me.

 

Allen, did you get the fluid from the stealership? If so I would take it back and get some friction modifier from them and buy the mobil 1 synth 75-90. It is cheaper than the dealers fluid and far better for your differential. If you have a 4wd then you might want to do the front at the same time as well and it is a good idea to have the pump for that.

 

I am very sure you need a pump for the front dif.

You need the Friction Additive.


Thanks. We all try to help and take time out of are busy life to make time for others. Feels good to help.


That was probably caused from not having the fluid checked regularly. Not moving and bending the rubber will cause it to become brittle. I like to check my fluids[sm=alcoholic.gif]

 

I got a quick question... My durango has about 80K on it and i dont know if its had the diff fluid changed... How often shoud it be changed and i have a little wet ring around the plug about an inch or so... Not so significant but just wanting to catch a problem before it becomes a large one....

 

I got my fluid from a local Auto specialty shop. Although it is not synthetic and when I asked them about a friction modifier for the diff they gave me a blank look. Which as you might guess concerns me. I will go to the dealership and get my friction modifier.

I stopped buying things from the dealership when they quoted me $59.00 Canadian for the rear window wiper blade (not the motor .... the blade!!!!) I remember telling the counter dude that he should give me the price for the blade not the motor, I asked him if they ever sold any at that price ... I have heard of gouging the customer but that is ridiculous.

I do not drive the durango much anymore because I get 12 mpg highway and city. It needs a tune up but it never got better than 15 mpg even when it was new so I am in no hurry to spend a lot of cash to get a marginal MPG improvement. My stratus gets 25 mpg but it is not as satisfying to drive.

 

Well one thing you can also do is try giving the company that manufactures the oil a call and make sure that it will work with your diff.

 

Couple of things

Mobil 1 has a friction modifier built in. These are and have been for a number of years a synthetic oil (for all the marbles, "What were the modifiers made from BEFORE synthetic back in the '70s and early '80s?"). So Mobil 1 being synthetic with the modifier is fine. Nothing else needed. Other dino oils will generally need the additive.

On the subject of sealers. RTV has pretty much (along with the yellow death weather strip sealer) been replaced for many applications by MUCH better solutions. If you want a state of the art sealer, try some Loctite 574. This is an anaerobic sealer, so it hardens in the absence of air, resists intense heat, is not bothered by oil, and when removed in the future will be pliable. This is what the Porsche factory uses to seal engines and transmissions. Best stuff I've ever used for rebuilding these engines and trannies. This is all you use when you have no gaskets (like sealing heads to cam towers.) It's expensive, but worth it when you want something not to leak.