Thats pretty much what I was thinking, Imight be over thinking this, but when I get my brakes ready for the inspection, I want to have all the parts ready, and on hand. I hate doing the job twice. I will definitely have ceramic for the front brake pads though. You all have made the ceramics a good sell, for the reduction in dust alone. Thank you gentleman!!!!

 

Thanks Steve.

I am a westsider (Brownsburg actually.) I've been to Champion once but since they changed hands a few times I was leary. Nevertheless, they cant be any worse than Westgate. Yuck.

Thanks,

IndyD

 

Indy, I will keep that in mind about Westgate. I have been in there a few times when I was looking, they seemed kind of pushy. So far my experience with Champion has been pretty positive, I took my 98 Cherokee there the end of Sept when the Drivers window regulator//cable snapped. Took it in there, was expecting approx $300 but they got it down to $225 had part in stock, and used actual time instead of Mitchells scheduled. Took it in on late Friday morning, I wasn't expecting it to get done then but was well surprised. I asked them to just shim the window in the up position, but they said negative, something about liability if the window was'nt able to open in the event of an emergency, like going off into a lake something like that. (JUST KIDDING) Part was in stock and they had it ready for me to be home before rush hour started. Yes I will admit to using them because they are close to my home but so far good luck. If I get in the B-Brg area I will have to check out your Durango.

 

Here could be the culprate. I had a problem with my rear brakes and this is what I found.

"Quote"
I tried everything and finally found the most stupidest thing. The rear automatic adjusters were bad causing the front to do all the work. The rear shoes where not adjusting out to cover the wear of the shoes. Replaced the auto adjusters and problem solved. The problem is the dowel on the shoe where the adjusters pivot is too big and allows for side to side movement which causes the tooth on the auto adjusters to wear off and not grab the adjustment screw. Looked like a manufactures flaw. Bought the full set from NAPA for $15 bucks a side. Remember to change out the dowel. You will see the difference in the openings.

You have to grind the back of the dowel off and drill the hole a small bit bigger and hammer the new dowel in. Make sure you look at the touching surface between the adjusters and the adjusting screw very carefully. The adjuster is not supposed to come out towards you that far. The new ones pivot perfectly.

 

Hydra,

Thanks for the info, the only problem with that theory is my rears are DISC not DRUMS. Unless there is something I am missing, are'nt the basic components of disc brakes 1. Rotors, 2. Calipers, 3. Pads, and bushings/mounting hardware?

Steve

 

****. I forgot yours are disk! There is a proportioning valve that is inline with the braking system that makes sure the right amount of pressure is going to the front and back. This might be your problem.

 

Proportioning valve, huh? That sounds fairly logical and reasonable, I am still thinking of replacing the calipers/rotors/pads, anyhow just for peace of mind but I can look up that step. Would changing this valve require bleeding? If so Then I will probably do it with the calipers and only have to bleed once Is the P.V ina reasonably accessabele location, or is it on each wheel, or is it the valve that is under the master cylinder the you see all the brake lines feeding into? I am a little nervous about high level brake repairs, I have bled brakes before, but bene a while. I guess I am overthinking this, I just don't want to screw up anything with the ABS system and wind up with worse problems. It sounds pretty straight forward, I will review the procedure in my Haynes manual.

Steve

 

I just reviewed the procedure in Haynes, They mention a combination valve this is a reprint from that section.

THECOMBINATION VALVE, LOCATED ON THE FROMT OF THE MASTER CYLINDER, PERFORMS SEVERAL FUNCTIONS: A METERING VALVE LIMITS PRESSURE TO THE FRONT BRAKES UNTIL A PREDETERMINED FRONT-BRAKE PRESSURE IS REACHED AND THE REAR BRAKES HAVE BEEN ACTIVATED.

A FIXED-RATE PROPORTIONING VALVE METERS OUTLET PRESSURE TO THE REAR BRAKES ONCE A PRE-DETERMINED REAR INPUT PRESSURE HAS BEEN REACHED, PREVENTING PREMATURE REAR-WHEEL LOCK-UP DURING HEAVY BRAKING.

THE COMBINATION VALVE IS ALSO DESIGNED TO ENSURE FULL PRESSURE TO ONE CIRCUIT SHOULD THE OTHER CIRCUIT FAIL. A BRAKE PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH CONTINOUSLY COMPARES THE FRONT AND REAR BRAKE PRESSURES. IF A FAILURE OCCURS SOMEWHERE IN THE SYSTEM, A RED WARNING LIGHT ON THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER COMES ON. ONCE A FAILURE HAS OCCURED, THE WARNING LIGHT REMAINS ON UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN REPAIRED.

In the reading back of that section, it appears that the following exists. 1. I have to try to avoidbeing putin a situation of extreme braking until I can get further inspection. 2. Differential switch appears to be working, and no failures on that part, based on no warning lights from either primary brake system or ABS system. 3. Combination valve could be primary suspect. I will try with the simplest items first, pads, rotors, calipers and work inward towards combo valve.

Thanks for the input, brakes work, but I will definitely be looking into further.

Steve