I have 60K on my original brake system. I have 4 wheel disk brakes. Is this the norm or can I expect some $$$$ repairs soon? Has anyone done their own pad replacements? Should the disks be turned? Any aftermaket pads that are better? Is it hard to get the front disks off? Thanks, any info would be helpful.
Dan

 

On my 98 the brake calipers use Torx head bolts, I believe they're either size Torx 40 or Torx45. If you're replacing the brake pads, you should get new rotors, they run $25-$35 for OEM style replacements. Overall it's not a hard job to undertake. I used ceramic pads, which create less dust and have a little more stopping power than standard semi-metallic pads.

 

If your rotors look fine, don't replace them. You are simply wasting money. You would want to replace the rotors if you are feeling vibration when you brake. This is because the rotor has become warped due to excess heat. If they are fine, leave them, if they need to be replaced, you can do that very easily. The dakotas/durangos have what is known as a "floating"rotor system. This means that the rotors are held in place only by the brake caliper and wheel. This make replacing them very easy.Replacing the pads is also a very easy job. The entire project from start to finish should take you no longer than 40 minutes.

 

While on the subject of pads, Does anyone know of or had experience with Titanium pads? I saw a posting on E-bay for

Front and Rear Set. This is two separate purchases, but each set includes the following. 1 Pad, Brake,Front,Inboard LH
1 Pad, Brake,Front, Inboard, RH
1 Pad, Brake, Front, Outboard, LH
1 Pad, Brake, Front, Outboard, RH
1 Rotor, Brake, Front, LH
1 Rotor, Brake, Front, RH
Approx $88 for each set plus approx $30 for S/H So for about $118 for the front, same for the rear.

My question to the forum is, Am I better off getting this as a set, and taking my chances with the U.S Postal Service, and the computer inventory control system to make sure I get theright setor Use AutoZone or Advance and at least get a visual on what I am getting even though it might cost more, Of course the original question still stands about Titanium pads, do they last, how are they about wear, dust performance etc....

I have heard a lot of good stuff about Ceramic Pads, maybe get the new rotor set, and when the pads go out, replace them with Ceramics but at least get a pretty fresh set of rotors. The Front Rotors, are grooved, and I can feel the valleys/ridges on them through the wheel housing, and this confirms a earlier inspection during my alignment about front brake wear, so it is not a surprise.

Steve

 

Just remember one thing if the titanium pads are harder than your rotors you will be replacing rotors more often something has always gotta give.

 

I would stick with ceramic pads. They are truly the best banc for the buck. Not to mention anyone who is charging $30 for shipping two brake pads is doing shady business. Also, those prices seem a little high to me. Furthermore, titanium is a very strong metal, yes, however, it is a very brittle metal as well.

Just my $.02

 

Virused, the S/H includes the rotors and pads, and while this thread is open. Does anyone know a quick way to inspect and test calipers? I don't want tocrack the brake linesif not necessary, but then again, if I am already in the area for the pads/rotors, I would like to get them all at one time. I think I am back toAutoZone for the rotors and ceramic pads. I also saw a set of brake dust covers, on e-bay sort of like a shield that goes between the wheel, and rotor to help keep more dust from getting on the wheel.

 

Simply enough, if your calipers weren't working correctly, you wouldn't stop. Calipers rarely go bad, simply because they are so simple. The only problems you will run into with disc rotor brake calipers is if the vehicle has sat for several years. If this is the case, you will want to brake the caliper down the check the pistons/cylanders for rust.

Also, I have heard from many people that using the wheel dust covers leads to premature warping of the brake rotors due to heat being captured by the shields themselves. They do not offer proper ventilation of the rotors. Once again, I have not tried them so I can't speak from personal experience, but I have had knowledgeable friends tell me so.

 

Chris, Thanks for the tips, maybe I was paranoid about the Calipers, I will inspect the brakes some day when it get above 7 degrees F, which based on accu wx, does not appear to be this weekend. I need to pull the tires/wheels, I am about 90%sure of the rotors/pads needing replacement so I will start there. That should make quick and easy work of the process. I did'nt think of that little problem with the dust shields, but I guess that makes sense, you saved me a fewAbe Lincolns there, thanks again. Once the weather gets better I will update the thread with what I find on the brakes.

 

Make sure you have a big C-clamp, it makes the job go faster when you have to compress the piston on the brake caliper. You may not need one, but for some reason the caliper on the driver's side of my D was really hard to compress by hand, so the clamp really helped speed things along. If your rotors don't look terrible, don't worry about replacing them. I thought for sure one of mine was shot, but I put the new pads on and drove it a day to see if I was going to get a new rotor... I didn't notice any weird pulling or pulsing, so I just left it as it was. It's been a few months and it seems fine. I suppose the next time I need to do brakes I'll replace the rotors.