check engine light
#11
04-27-2008, 09:50 PM
RE: check engine light
My '01 Durango has had the check engine light problem for the past few weeks. I replaced the gas cap (did that 1 year ago also and fixed problem), reset, and lasted two days...today light is back on so guess will have to investigate further. However, does anyone have an opinion about whether this is an urgent need or not? I have drive to Kentucky this week....should it be a problem?
#12
04-28-2008, 02:15 PM
Rookie
RE: check engine light
While I may be completely wrong... 
(disclaimer)
If it's just a P0456 (minor leak in fuel vapor recovery) you could likely drive it forever and the only possible thing you might notice is minimal, if any impact on fuel economy, and likely from the computer trying to compensate by running other systems more - if it even does.
I suspect it would be zero problems - I've had the code going on for a couple days and haven't noticed a thing.
Although, if that's a long trip for you, it might do well, just for peace of mind, to go get another gas cap and see if it goes away. And maybe take a peek at the vacumn lines you can see to be sure they are tight and not torn anywhere.
You could try calling a dealer and asking them too - just to see what they say, of course - if they try to make it dire sounding, you may want a second opinion.
I'm thinking - since I have a P0456 showing, I may well just go get a new gas cap, new vacumn lines and charcoal canister and replace the whole lot. If it's like most other vehicles, I doubt it would even cost 50 bucks total.
(disclaimer)If it's just a P0456 (minor leak in fuel vapor recovery) you could likely drive it forever and the only possible thing you might notice is minimal, if any impact on fuel economy, and likely from the computer trying to compensate by running other systems more - if it even does.
I suspect it would be zero problems - I've had the code going on for a couple days and haven't noticed a thing.
Although, if that's a long trip for you, it might do well, just for peace of mind, to go get another gas cap and see if it goes away. And maybe take a peek at the vacumn lines you can see to be sure they are tight and not torn anywhere.
You could try calling a dealer and asking them too - just to see what they say, of course - if they try to make it dire sounding, you may want a second opinion.
I'm thinking - since I have a P0456 showing, I may well just go get a new gas cap, new vacumn lines and charcoal canister and replace the whole lot. If it's like most other vehicles, I doubt it would even cost 50 bucks total.
#13
04-29-2008, 03:25 PM
RE: check engine light
Before I'd spend money something I didn't know was bad. This is what I'd do.
1. replace the gas cap, they are cheap and they will eventually go bad just from use. for good measure put a thin film of vasaline on the seal to keep it from drying out and cracking, check the sealing surface on the fuel filler neck for dents or dings from ramming a fuel filler nozzel in there at the gas station.
2. check the hoses at the charcoal canister, if in doubt replace them, make sure you check all the way back to the rollover valve at the top of the fuel tank. One of the hoses is a dealer item in my part of the world because it isdifferent sizes at each end and parts stores don't stock it, so I made my own from 2 different size hoses and a hose barb between them. for good measure I put small stainless hose clamps on everything that didn't have a clamp on it. Doesn't make sense to me that because of the location of the canister on the vehicle and the fact that it only takes a pin hole leak to cause a P0456 code that they didn't think that they needed clamps.
I did these things and I can leave my D sit for a week then go take the cap off and hear the woosh from the pressure being released. no leaks.
Rarely does a componet part of the evap system go bad, it is usually a bad seal or a bad hose that causes a leak.
As for leaving it alone and driving it that way, I would not. They put evap systems on vehicles for a reason. normaly the only vapor your going to lose is when you take off the cap and fill your tank, if you leave that way all your going to do is pump fuel vapor to the atmosphere reducing your mpg's (gasoline loves to evaporate) and causing more pollution. These vehicles don't get goodmpg's to begin with and at the price we are paying today I want to burn it not breatheit. If your check engin light is on all the time from an evap leak how ya going to know when something else goes bad?
1. replace the gas cap, they are cheap and they will eventually go bad just from use. for good measure put a thin film of vasaline on the seal to keep it from drying out and cracking, check the sealing surface on the fuel filler neck for dents or dings from ramming a fuel filler nozzel in there at the gas station.
2. check the hoses at the charcoal canister, if in doubt replace them, make sure you check all the way back to the rollover valve at the top of the fuel tank. One of the hoses is a dealer item in my part of the world because it isdifferent sizes at each end and parts stores don't stock it, so I made my own from 2 different size hoses and a hose barb between them. for good measure I put small stainless hose clamps on everything that didn't have a clamp on it. Doesn't make sense to me that because of the location of the canister on the vehicle and the fact that it only takes a pin hole leak to cause a P0456 code that they didn't think that they needed clamps.
I did these things and I can leave my D sit for a week then go take the cap off and hear the woosh from the pressure being released. no leaks.
Rarely does a componet part of the evap system go bad, it is usually a bad seal or a bad hose that causes a leak.
As for leaving it alone and driving it that way, I would not. They put evap systems on vehicles for a reason. normaly the only vapor your going to lose is when you take off the cap and fill your tank, if you leave that way all your going to do is pump fuel vapor to the atmosphere reducing your mpg's (gasoline loves to evaporate) and causing more pollution. These vehicles don't get goodmpg's to begin with and at the price we are paying today I want to burn it not breatheit. If your check engin light is on all the time from an evap leak how ya going to know when something else goes bad?
#14
07-01-2008, 03:37 AM
All Star
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: MINNEAPOLIS, MN
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: check engine light
The below posting is a reprint of a post from earlierthis winter, the post is old but the info is the same, good luck!!!!
FYI: Update to this post. AUTOZONE, does not clear codes anymore. They will read, and print but not clear. depending on what the code prints out, you might have to do a electrical reset, which involves of course removing the negative cable of the battery for approx 30 seconds, that of course involves resetting your radio but a minor inconvenience and sure beats dealer cost. I am not sure about Advance but seems to be a common trend, towards forcing you to take to a dealer. The self service auto parts repair stores are getting less and less service oriented but that is another thread
Good Morning, I just went through this last summer, now be patient part of this is experimentation. In no particular order, first part is some inspection of parts, again this is what eventually cleared mine, but it took a few tries. Do not panic, the code is basically a vacuum leak message, now where it is, might take some time. With that said, here is where to start inspecting. These codes could affect fuel mileage in the short term, but I made mine from Clearwater, FL to Indy approx 1050 miles no skipping, just a slightdrop in fuel economy.
1. Charcoal canister, inside frame rail, forward of fuel tank, driver side, approx between drivers seat and Left Rear passengers seat. check all vacuum lines carefully, mine was pretty obvious, it was dry rotted at the fitting, and a nice split. Now if it is that, here is the problem, the hose on that is a flared fitting, so the opening on one side is larger than the other, one 7/16th the other 3/8th. In my case I got two separate pieces of hose and got a coupler and hose clamped them together along with clamping them to the charcoal canister. Only one line was cracked, but while you are there might as well replace them both prevent yourself a light later. The length is small, so I was able to get some scrap pieces from AutoZone to make it work, and all I had to pay for was the couplers and hose clamps.
2. Vacuum line, it is the line that runs from the PCV valve behind and to the intake manifold, it is a combination of plastic tubing and hoses, so inspect carefully. I am not sure what to call it, but it is pretty cheap even for a dealer, but I believe it was somewhere around $10-15. If it hasent been done in a year, might as well replace the PCV valve while you are at it. FYI, it may not be a in stock item, so be prepared to hold a few days unless you live near a warehouse or a high volume dealership, multiple dealers in the area, or a combination of the above. Mine came from Milwaukee and took about two business days. Also make a note of the routing, on the manifold side, it is a blind corner for the connection, and the reason it is blind is the firewall and the aft part of the engine, it is alsoa 90 degree elbow, be patient and get small hands.
3. Fuel cap, I replaced mine, I hate to recommend dealerships, but in this case I will, mine was about $10 and a fairly common in stock item.
If you still get the M.I.L. after that, you might need a smoke test, basically they put a smoke die, and run it through the system wherever it leaks is the source. A long way to go, but if it is a small pin hole leak, and not obvious that might be your only hope. I believetests areapprox $40-50 for the Indianapolis area, plus whatever the leak finds and labor.
I hope this is a good start, obviously check all parts of the system, but these seem to be pretty common areas and dryrot of the hose should not be overlooked. If in doubt I would replace it, especially with it being an 02, if they have not been replaced before. A.Z. helped a lot with reading and clearing the codes, just time consuming and could be frustrating but welcometo the world of computer vehicles.
Good luck!!! get a good trouble light and run over the hoses carefully.
Steve.
_____________________________
2003 DURANGO SLT 4X4 4.7 3RD ROW.
LEATHER SONY XM STEREO [align=right]
[/align]
FYI: Update to this post. AUTOZONE, does not clear codes anymore. They will read, and print but not clear. depending on what the code prints out, you might have to do a electrical reset, which involves of course removing the negative cable of the battery for approx 30 seconds, that of course involves resetting your radio but a minor inconvenience and sure beats dealer cost. I am not sure about Advance but seems to be a common trend, towards forcing you to take to a dealer. The self service auto parts repair stores are getting less and less service oriented but that is another thread
Good Morning, I just went through this last summer, now be patient part of this is experimentation. In no particular order, first part is some inspection of parts, again this is what eventually cleared mine, but it took a few tries. Do not panic, the code is basically a vacuum leak message, now where it is, might take some time. With that said, here is where to start inspecting. These codes could affect fuel mileage in the short term, but I made mine from Clearwater, FL to Indy approx 1050 miles no skipping, just a slightdrop in fuel economy.
1. Charcoal canister, inside frame rail, forward of fuel tank, driver side, approx between drivers seat and Left Rear passengers seat. check all vacuum lines carefully, mine was pretty obvious, it was dry rotted at the fitting, and a nice split. Now if it is that, here is the problem, the hose on that is a flared fitting, so the opening on one side is larger than the other, one 7/16th the other 3/8th. In my case I got two separate pieces of hose and got a coupler and hose clamped them together along with clamping them to the charcoal canister. Only one line was cracked, but while you are there might as well replace them both prevent yourself a light later. The length is small, so I was able to get some scrap pieces from AutoZone to make it work, and all I had to pay for was the couplers and hose clamps.
2. Vacuum line, it is the line that runs from the PCV valve behind and to the intake manifold, it is a combination of plastic tubing and hoses, so inspect carefully. I am not sure what to call it, but it is pretty cheap even for a dealer, but I believe it was somewhere around $10-15. If it hasent been done in a year, might as well replace the PCV valve while you are at it. FYI, it may not be a in stock item, so be prepared to hold a few days unless you live near a warehouse or a high volume dealership, multiple dealers in the area, or a combination of the above. Mine came from Milwaukee and took about two business days. Also make a note of the routing, on the manifold side, it is a blind corner for the connection, and the reason it is blind is the firewall and the aft part of the engine, it is alsoa 90 degree elbow, be patient and get small hands.
3. Fuel cap, I replaced mine, I hate to recommend dealerships, but in this case I will, mine was about $10 and a fairly common in stock item.
If you still get the M.I.L. after that, you might need a smoke test, basically they put a smoke die, and run it through the system wherever it leaks is the source. A long way to go, but if it is a small pin hole leak, and not obvious that might be your only hope. I believetests areapprox $40-50 for the Indianapolis area, plus whatever the leak finds and labor.
I hope this is a good start, obviously check all parts of the system, but these seem to be pretty common areas and dryrot of the hose should not be overlooked. If in doubt I would replace it, especially with it being an 02, if they have not been replaced before. A.Z. helped a lot with reading and clearing the codes, just time consuming and could be frustrating but welcometo the world of computer vehicles.
Good luck!!! get a good trouble light and run over the hoses carefully.
Steve.
_____________________________
2003 DURANGO SLT 4X4 4.7 3RD ROW.
LEATHER SONY XM STEREO [align=right]
[/align]
#15
08-22-2008, 08:13 PM
check engine light
