1997 dodge intrepid fuel pump problems
Fuel pump went out. Dealer said it would cost $800 to replace ($400 part/$400 labor). Not sure I want to lay down that much cash.
I am somewhat mechanically inclined but I am not sure if I should attempt this.
Anyone ever done this? If so, do you have instructions?
Can anyone recommend a fuel pump to buy?
Thanks in advance
I am somewhat mechanically inclined but I am not sure if I should attempt this.
Anyone ever done this? If so, do you have instructions?
Can anyone recommend a fuel pump to buy?
Thanks in advance
Yes, I had to replace mine in 2000.
I'd suggest you pull the ground lead off the battery to kill any electrical in the vehicle. Use a battery flash light for light if you need. During the daylight hours there should be plenty of light. Beware of gasoline vapors too as the trunk of the car is an enclosure and could be a hazard.
Just empty everything out of your trunk including your spare tire and jack. You can squat down into the wheel well.
Pull the carpet down and back to you from the front of the trunk to see if you can get at that 10" diameter plate that's just forward of the wheel well. Remove the nuts and lift it up to remove it and you'll be looking at the fuel lines connecting to the top of the pump. It's secured like most fuel tank pumps so just tap the clamp loose. Pinch clips hold the fuel lines to the pump.
The pump will depend on what you have, my 3.3 Eagle Vision looked like a small plastic bucket just small enough to fit through the hole. I had to twist and tilt mine to the right some to get it to come up and out of the tank. The actual pump is only about 2 1/2 diameter X 5 inches long and is placed in this bucket baffle device. I figure it keeps the warmer returned fuel from the engine isolated from the cooler fuel in the pump tank. This assembly has the fuel gauge & float lever, the pump, and the bucket as a unit.
When removing the pump, the bucket will be rather full of fuel as you lift it up and out so be careful not to spill fuel into the trunk compartment. It will depend on how much fuel is in the tank to start with. I'd strongly suggest looking at a new replacement pump at a parts store before you try to remove the old one. That way you'll know what you are dealing with.
I purchased my new pump assembly at NAPA. It was about $130 then.
I understand some guys just buy the metal pump for like $80 dollars and
replace the old metal pump in the plastic bucket to restore it. But it depends on how mechanically inclined you are.
It doesn't take much in the line of tools and in about an hour and a half the first time.
But for less than $150 bucks you can probably do it yourself.
Good luck
I'd suggest you pull the ground lead off the battery to kill any electrical in the vehicle. Use a battery flash light for light if you need. During the daylight hours there should be plenty of light. Beware of gasoline vapors too as the trunk of the car is an enclosure and could be a hazard.
Just empty everything out of your trunk including your spare tire and jack. You can squat down into the wheel well.
Pull the carpet down and back to you from the front of the trunk to see if you can get at that 10" diameter plate that's just forward of the wheel well. Remove the nuts and lift it up to remove it and you'll be looking at the fuel lines connecting to the top of the pump. It's secured like most fuel tank pumps so just tap the clamp loose. Pinch clips hold the fuel lines to the pump.
The pump will depend on what you have, my 3.3 Eagle Vision looked like a small plastic bucket just small enough to fit through the hole. I had to twist and tilt mine to the right some to get it to come up and out of the tank. The actual pump is only about 2 1/2 diameter X 5 inches long and is placed in this bucket baffle device. I figure it keeps the warmer returned fuel from the engine isolated from the cooler fuel in the pump tank. This assembly has the fuel gauge & float lever, the pump, and the bucket as a unit.
When removing the pump, the bucket will be rather full of fuel as you lift it up and out so be careful not to spill fuel into the trunk compartment. It will depend on how much fuel is in the tank to start with. I'd strongly suggest looking at a new replacement pump at a parts store before you try to remove the old one. That way you'll know what you are dealing with.
I purchased my new pump assembly at NAPA. It was about $130 then.
I understand some guys just buy the metal pump for like $80 dollars and
replace the old metal pump in the plastic bucket to restore it. But it depends on how mechanically inclined you are.
It doesn't take much in the line of tools and in about an hour and a half the first time.
But for less than $150 bucks you can probably do it yourself.
Good luck
LOL I know so many guys who think it's the mark of a master mechanic to just jump into a repair. It may have been different working on a 1963 Chevy V8 in 63 but things have changed considerably here in 2009.
Today with so many older Computers & Lap Tops floating around for cheap
any work shop or garage can have one to use on site. What so many guys don't know yet is that their local Public Library System now pays the Publishers of Chiltons, Mitchells, Motors etc for access to their online manuals such that any guy with a Library Card can go to the Library web site, click to the online manuals, enter his pass code on the Library Card and choose from the manuals that cover autos, trucks, motorcycles, outboard motors, lawn & garden equipment, major appliances, etc so Tech Info & spec's are at their fingertips.
If you have to go out into the boondocks ? The Cell companies now offer
3G internet service so you're good just about anywhere you go wirelessly.
If this is news to you, just call the Reference Dept at your Main Library and ask about accessing the online manuals they have available in their system or state wide. You'll need to have a library card though.
It may keep you from tearing the undercarriage out of her to get at a fuel pump that already had an EZ hatch in the trunk.
Today with so many older Computers & Lap Tops floating around for cheap
any work shop or garage can have one to use on site. What so many guys don't know yet is that their local Public Library System now pays the Publishers of Chiltons, Mitchells, Motors etc for access to their online manuals such that any guy with a Library Card can go to the Library web site, click to the online manuals, enter his pass code on the Library Card and choose from the manuals that cover autos, trucks, motorcycles, outboard motors, lawn & garden equipment, major appliances, etc so Tech Info & spec's are at their fingertips.
If you have to go out into the boondocks ? The Cell companies now offer
3G internet service so you're good just about anywhere you go wirelessly.
If this is news to you, just call the Reference Dept at your Main Library and ask about accessing the online manuals they have available in their system or state wide. You'll need to have a library card though.
It may keep you from tearing the undercarriage out of her to get at a fuel pump that already had an EZ hatch in the trunk.
Thanks guys! Got the fuel pump in and the car is working great!
It took a little longer than I thought it would because the new fuel pump (bought at OReilly's for $190 + tax) did not include the rollover valve. It said to use the old rollover valve, which for me took a bit of time (and choice words) to remove it from the old fuel pump.
Anyways, all is well and I saved a bit of money. I think I will have a beer. Thanks guys and God Bless.
It took a little longer than I thought it would because the new fuel pump (bought at OReilly's for $190 + tax) did not include the rollover valve. It said to use the old rollover valve, which for me took a bit of time (and choice words) to remove it from the old fuel pump.
Anyways, all is well and I saved a bit of money. I think I will have a beer. Thanks guys and God Bless.




