oh no i do understand you cant hear it or smell it and i do not have the creative writing skills to explain that correct lol. i am very happy with the help i am getting. just funny ran fine she got to a stop light and it died. for some reason needed to be boosted but that isnt the problem at all it seems. if the altenator crapped out the car would still run fine off the battery for a while at least. you can smell fuel thats for sure but that is almost as always if its sputtering its not burning it , if the timing jumped it shouldnt rev to 2000ish and kinf of miss then when taken back to idle it idles fin for a while then shuts off. will restart right away. put new fuel pump in and fuel filter was planing to do that anyway. tried crank sensor. if it was a broken wire to crank sesor it would act the same as if the crank sensor was unhooked not? basicly i am only left with timing but i dont see how it could act like that with timing could it? cam sensor if was dead the car wouldnt start at all i thought. i thank you guys for the help it is great to get ideas of things from other people i would buy you all a beer if we were closer!

 

it wouldn't run with the crank sensors unplugged?

 

Ok First of all not all wire problems are an open wire. They very comonly short to ground Such as when the jacket melts off and then the wire while intact touches to the ground. But I still think you need to try a cam sensor. I'd try easy first.

 

Ok 2nd not all wire problems are an open wire or shorted to ground. There's also unwanted resistance (aka corrosion) and there's also short across wires (aka crossfiring plug wires)

 

no if i unpluged the cranks sensor it just turns over no fireing at all. same with if i unhooked thecam sensor. i was hoping if i unhooked the sensor and it did the same thing i then be easy to think there was a broken wire but it is getting some type of reading from that sensor. yet as you say maybe still a issue with the wires. i will try a cam sensor today and see what happens. will let you know what all i try today. thanks again guys.

 

so if you unplug either sensor no start. and if you plug in the sensor it starts. seems like a sensor problem is not what you have. and i really doubt you have a wire problem cuz you just proved the computer sees and recognizes the sensors. but heck if you feel better putting a new sensor in the car, go for it.

 

also this car is a 97 code 11 is the same on all years? i checked by doing the key on and off thing got 12 to start then 11 then 55 at end

 

pretty much. but you'd still be way better off actually getting the real P--- code.

 

I changed the cam sensor and it runs and drives only sometimes it miss's now and at higher rpm underload mostly. still give code 11 when it finnaly happens. when checking it i noticed the themostate doesnt work either so changed it lol. when i disconected the tps it shut off and gave me code 24 and 27 is it normal to give and injector code at same time? and yea i gotta buy a real scaneer soon. basicly the miss only happens under heavey accelerating now.

 

Now on a real scanner I get 1391 as the code. After I changed cam senor you can drive car idles rough. Will stumble under load. Heavy load and a good amout of accelerating it will make the engine light come on. I tried to run the car off just the altenator all the lights would dim and flash. When this car first cam the driver power window switch rolled itself down on its own and would not come back up I changed switch and it worked now it did the same thing today is this all an power issue? Could weak battery conections cause any of this?