ok i have a 95 sohc engine. and the problem that i have is...i can drive it 600 miles or more and nothing happens..it runs fine....but then...randomly my engine shuts off and completely dies...sometimes i can turn it off and crank it right back up...but most of the time..it wont start until i have it towed back to my house and it sits for a day or so...but i replaced the cam and crank sensor, the coil pack...and there just seems to be no logical reason for it to shut off...it does it just randomly going down the road....theres no pattern to when it does it like i said it can be 600 miles...or five...so if anyone knows anything about this please...help me out.....its driving me crazy

 

do u have any engine codes,,and i had a similar problem and it was my top o2 sensor,,when it would get hot,,it would die on me,,and i replaced it and it was fine,,!!!

 

well when it died and i got it home...it threw 4 codes and all i can remember are the numbers and they are 11, 14, 42, 44 but when i did my engine swap the o2 sensor wires got cut and i spliced them

 

11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop working entirely with no limp-home mode.

14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V

42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted

[ul][*]44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR[*]44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR[*]44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!) [/ul] If you weren't able to translate the codes.

 

see thats whats driving me insane...i just replaced the crank and cam sensor

 

What about the wiring to those two sensors? Maybe faulty. Also are you sure your belt didn't jump a tooth?

 

yeah the wiring is good....and the car is running way too good...when it runs....for the timing to be off one tooth

 

Have you reset the PCM after you changed out the sensors as some of these codes could be leftover that are no longer valid. Read the codes the next time it happens.
Double check the wiringrepair on the O2to make sure the colors match although I doubt that’s the problem.
Try replacing or swapping the ASD relay the contacts may be burnt or dirty and preventing proper connection. Another option may be a bad fuel pump or pump relay.

 

i replaced the fuel pump and relay about 2 months ago and there arent any codes when it happens the check engine light isnt even on...but when it does happen.....it just seems like theres no spark....there is fuel pressure in the rail

 

Check this out

http://www.techknowman.com/Dodge%20N...dge%20Neon.htm





Is your neon cutting out and just dying with no trouble code or check engine light?

Well in my case it was the PCM. The big multi-pin plug is soldered to the main circuit board. the main "Ground" points on the plug where it soldered to the circuit board had fatigued and broke loose. I also found 1 place near the back of the board. I dug out the potting goo and repaired the board.

This was effectively like doing brain Surgery on yourself with a steak knife and spoon. The Red circles are where I found bad solder connections

1. You must know how to solder well.
2. You can't be faint of heart to dig in to it. CAREFULLY! you screw up and
you buy a new PCM!
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