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ive torn the center out of steel rims,or the lug nuts tear through..cut some up and weld a double center together for the RF at least.
aluminums only break when you hit the wall hard

i have 4 or 5 steel rims i barely ever use, your kinda far away though, just a thought GM steel rims (beretta, cavaleir, corsica..grand am,..etc.) will fit right on a neon, toyota (80's celica)5 lugs will fit if you grind the center hole a little bigger.
im not sure 100% on making a SOHC run strong but i know if you can get away with "cheating" with a header it makes gobs of torque.
do whatever you can to get more air to that motor,
irun a 2 1/2" exhaust and let it come out right in front of the LR wheel. pretty much just cut the stock stuff off right there and run it. 2 1/4 stock pipe isnt bad to run, helps for torque, im stepping mine down i think

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Thanks for the advice on rims, gonna run to a local junkyard/tire place this weekend and do some swapping. No wall around our 1/4 mile, so no worries on hitting it.
Also, doesn't pay to setup to run left turns only, because a lot of the time they will run a race in both directions to prevent that.
What about removing the EGR on the sohc? Any gains there? What's the best way to plug it off?
On your exhaust, did you cutout your cat? Mine exits just forward of left rear also, but mufflers are mandatory,so I welded in a cherry bomb, but even that seems a bit restrictive. I suppose I could open it up and remove it's insides. It's still a muffler right!?!?
Got a few ideas on getting more air into it. The rules are a little vague for this area, so to me that means open to interpretation! My car was missing the emissions canister and vacuum lines. I'm thinking of a way to incorporate that vacuum from the throttle body to help draw air into the tb, but for now it's just capped off.

$350 for a feature! That is huge! We have a points fund and you can get $100 for tenth up to $700 for first at the end of the season. The rest of the year is just trophies.
The dominating car at I96 is a Probe. The other cars in the field are escorts and some beaters you can't tell what they were!

 

No gains there at all.

 

i left mine hooked up, it lowers combustion temps up to 600 degrees at part throttle, i know your never at part throttle long, but every little bit helps.
run a 160 stat that brings a couple HP, i cut the center out of one and put the ring back in as a restrictor & i still get to 200 degrees if its hot out, but when its running 140-150 on a cool night it flies.
i dont have a cat, or a muffler,2nd 02 sensor can be taken off.they say were required to havemufflers but nobody does. 4 cyls really arent loud at all compared to the super late models & sprints
i use the stock airbox with a K&N then cut the whole front of the box open. its still the stock airbox
sinceyour running dirt, buy two air filters, one for hot laps / heat races, change it before the feature.unless your out front then your filter stays clean.
the one hose from your canister thats runs up in the RF fender well needs to be open, thats your fuel tank vent, if you dont vent it, youll lose fuel once it draws a vaccum in the tank
stick a filter on the end and call it good.

 

Thanks dude!
I'll leave the egr alone then. Have to check out what stat is in there. I think I may have removed it.
Which O2 sensor is the 2nd one? Good idea on the airbox, but would you get cooler air if you cut out the back (firewall side) of the box? Maybe, I should just cut out the muff all together. You right in that they aren't that loud anyway.
Fuel tank vent hose is open. I'll tape some foam rubber or something around it for a filter.

I haven't checked the downshift linkage yet, but I'm sure from the ways it's acting that has to be it.

I was hoping for a track debut this weekend. They were going to run the World of Outlaws Late Models and the regular schedule too, but the whole event has been cancelled now and they are going to run motorcycles. Oh well, gives me a little more time to get things in order!

Thanks again for all your advice!!

Mathias

 

if you cut the back side open your bypassing the air filter, i guess it depends which airbox you have. if you have the one with the little snorkel that comes up the side then just cut both bottom sides open and pitch the snorkel tube, or leave it there so it looks more stock and hack the whole bottom open, make a good heat sheild between theehxuat manifold & airbox too, really helps to keep the intake air temps down. wrap the manifold with header wrap if you got time, i hate that stuff i wont touch it.
i run my oil 1/2 quart over full because i had starvation issues in the corner somtimes.
use mobil1 10w40 or straight 40 & it should hold together all season.
try to find an aluminum oil pan off a 97+ neon, those help cool the oil some., or buy the oil cooler kit from summit. then you gotta go a quart over full to make up for the cooler.
the o2 sensor behind the cat isnt needed, it will cause the CEL to come on but doesnt change how it runs.

were gonna be fill time (hopefully) for sprint speedweek here
world of outlaw show was canceled, imagine that.
toe your front wheels out 1/4 to 1/2 inch to help you pull around the corner.

i spray bomb evrything uner the hood flat blackprimer, hose it with WD40 so it collects dust &looks nasty and they dont think anything of it. if its all nice & pretty under the hood they suspect it ws apart and you get checked twice as bad. make it look like a heap of **** uner there


[IMG]local://upfiles/37714/511C77134EFC4C76A71DCA45817D2F81.jpg[/IMG]

 

"if you have the one with the little snorkel that comes up the side then just cut both bottom sides open and pitch the snorkel tube, or leave it there so it looks more stock and hack the whole bottom open,"

Yep, that's the one. I think I can safely pitch the snokel without much attention. Beside's its a pain in the butt to hook and unhook that thing!

Good idea on the spray bomb wd-40 trick. Course now, someone will track me to this forum and point it out someday! LOL

I hope I never see that photo played out in my garage!!! What happened!?!?!?

 

thats what happens when your motor gets to about 300 degrees and you dont stop racing because your out front. they dont take the heat so well.

you might want to find an airbox from a newer neon and cut the front open, i found better power out of those, but not much difference with the cut up 95 style., just try to sheild as much heat from the exhaust as you can. the cut up DOHC one runs just as strong as a warm air intake with a cone filter.

does that motor look rebuilt?
you cant imagine how hard it is keeping the dirt on the outside & clean inside.
keeps the tech inspectors head out out of there though.
thats got one season on it, but dont look much different after goin through it again.
is it a 2.0 or 2.4, can you tell?

[IMG]local://upfiles/37714/BDD9BFB5F0C4471093F0A3490305124C.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/37714/84F7D3535FE141AEA1DFBAC11F7EE80E.jpg[/IMG]

 

Wow! No, I can't tell if it's 2.0 or 2.4. Looks bigger than my 2.0 but a dohc does have that wider profile.

I took the snokel off tonight and disconnected the throttle pressure cable. I assume that cable is attached to the downshift linkage, cause when I move the shifter through the gears it pulls up all the slack to the throttle until your in first and the cable is so tight against the throttle that you can't move it. Long sentence to confirm your answer to my original post!
Anyhow, I started it up and got a lot more pull out of it, plus I could now shift in first and second and she really liked that.
I'll try some of your other tips here pretty soon too.
Thanks!
Mathias