Thread Starter
okay, well let me just start off by saying the car is a completley stock 95 dodge neon highline coupe 5 spd. I got this car as a hand-me-down from my sister, and is currently taking the place of my honda. I've done quite a few engine swaps, turbo installs, suspension and brake work, but all i've really worked on is hondas. So now that theres a problem with my neon, i'm clueless as to what it is.
so on to the problems...
the car drove fine and acted normal for about 2 weeks, then after i turned it off one day, the fan was still on. i didnt think much of it... not knowing much about my new car, i figured it was a normal thing on a hot day (it was august...) so i come back out and the car is dead. good thing i parked on a hill...
so from then on, every time i turn the car off, and the fan stays on, i have to mess around with the fan relay until it turns off so it doesnt kill my battery. how do i fix this? replace the relay? replace the temp sensor?
so if that wasnt enough about a week later, the car started overheating while sitting in traffic. i turned the heat on, and made it home ok. i checked the coolant level... that was fine, the waterpump was spinning, the thermostat was opening, so its the fan not turning on...
the fan stays on after the car is off, and doesnt come on when the car is on... perfect
ok so the straw that broke the camels back was this morning. i go out to my car, and put the key in and turn it to run, everything turns on, seems normal, so i turn the key to start it and i hear the starter give a click and everything cuts off. all the dash lights, the gauge cluster, the headunit, everything. and it stays off. i try to start it again and i get nothing, so once again i push it up my driveway and bump start it. so after i get out of class, i come out to my car and the same thing happens. Now when i turn it to run the "service engine soon" light is on.
how do i go about checking the codes? how do i read them? and if someone has a list of the codes i would be most appreciative
so i guess my questions are: how do i get my fan to turn off when i turn the car off, and to turn on when it needs to? how do i get my car back to doing that whole... starting... thing... again? how do i go about checking the ecu codes? how do i read them? and if someone has a list of the codes i would be most appreciative
so on to the problems...
the car drove fine and acted normal for about 2 weeks, then after i turned it off one day, the fan was still on. i didnt think much of it... not knowing much about my new car, i figured it was a normal thing on a hot day (it was august...) so i come back out and the car is dead. good thing i parked on a hill...
so from then on, every time i turn the car off, and the fan stays on, i have to mess around with the fan relay until it turns off so it doesnt kill my battery. how do i fix this? replace the relay? replace the temp sensor?so if that wasnt enough about a week later, the car started overheating while sitting in traffic. i turned the heat on, and made it home ok. i checked the coolant level... that was fine, the waterpump was spinning, the thermostat was opening, so its the fan not turning on...
the fan stays on after the car is off, and doesnt come on when the car is on... perfect
ok so the straw that broke the camels back was this morning. i go out to my car, and put the key in and turn it to run, everything turns on, seems normal, so i turn the key to start it and i hear the starter give a click and everything cuts off. all the dash lights, the gauge cluster, the headunit, everything. and it stays off. i try to start it again and i get nothing, so once again i push it up my driveway and bump start it. so after i get out of class, i come out to my car and the same thing happens. Now when i turn it to run the "service engine soon" light is on.
how do i go about checking the codes? how do i read them? and if someone has a list of the codes i would be most appreciative
so i guess my questions are: how do i get my fan to turn off when i turn the car off, and to turn on when it needs to? how do i get my car back to doing that whole... starting... thing... again? how do i go about checking the ecu codes? how do i read them? and if someone has a list of the codes i would be most appreciative
First things first, check the codes. It'll be much much easier to get help with codes in hand. Because with what you've given in information it can be any number of things. So, once you have those codes in hand we can then narrow down what it isn't and help you much easier.
Second, welcome to DF and the good guys. You won't miss that Honduh once you get the bugs worked out of the Neon.
Quote:
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.
2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.
A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition for a neon.
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure
When you get the codes post 'em up and then we can see what possible fixes are.ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.
2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.
A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition for a neon.
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure
Second, welcome to DF and the good guys. You won't miss that Honduh once you get the bugs worked out of the Neon.
Thread Starter
ok well i just went and checked it out, and its code 12. so the power to the pcm... whatever that is... i assume its the computer? i guess if power wasnt getting to the interior and accessories, then it cut it to the computer and other stuff too. if it gets power all the way up until i turn the key to start then why does it suddenly cut off?
and as for missing my honda... if things go as planned, i'll be able to breathe life into the old heap again [sm=smiley2.gif]
and as for missing my honda... if things go as planned, i'll be able to breathe life into the old heap again [sm=smiley2.gif]
Code 12 is nothing to worry about. Its something that's about always there. It could be the battery but doubtful. Try charging or changing it. Especially if its the original battery.
No, you've got something else wrong with the car. I can guarantee that you've got more wrong than a code 12. Wait for it to finish. It'll flash 55.
No, you've got something else wrong with the car. I can guarantee that you've got more wrong than a code 12. Wait for it to finish. It'll flash 55.
Thread Starter
oh 12 was the only one it flashed... it flashed that and 55. i'm stumped. is there a common problem like this with other neons? or am i just special? for once i hope i'm not special and someone has had this problem and can shed some light
I think you are special.
I'd start with the fan relay. I've actually heard of this before. But it was an isolated incident, or so I thought. Change the fan relay out odds are its going bad.
As for it over heating change the coolant temp sensor, its on the back of the engine on the passenger side, under the exhaust manifold. Its kind of a pita to get to so you are going to have to get to it from under tha car.
As for the clicking sound. I'd look at the starter, it may be bad. Or it could be the battery.
I'd start with the fan relay. I've actually heard of this before. But it was an isolated incident, or so I thought. Change the fan relay out odds are its going bad.
As for it over heating change the coolant temp sensor, its on the back of the engine on the passenger side, under the exhaust manifold. Its kind of a pita to get to so you are going to have to get to it from under tha car.
As for the clicking sound. I'd look at the starter, it may be bad. Or it could be the battery.
Thread Starter
so i was driving today, and the CEL came on... its code 25. but even the idle air controll valve wouldnt make my car not start. it was raining REALLY hard today though... i'm thinkin it might have thrown it off, but the whole vacum leak thing wouldnt suprise me since it IS 9 years old. this thing is really starting to **** me off. lol anyone wanna buy a neon?
Actually, a code 25 will cause the car not to start. Not right away it takes a few days buit eventually it won't start.
I'd change the gasket that goes between the TB and intake manifold, the IAC o-ring and the TPS o-ring. I'd also replace all the hoses fromt eh TB to the purge canister the hoses to the brake booster, teh PCV valve hoses.
Then disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 minutes to an hour.
I'd change the gasket that goes between the TB and intake manifold, the IAC o-ring and the TPS o-ring. I'd also replace all the hoses fromt eh TB to the purge canister the hoses to the brake booster, teh PCV valve hoses.
Then disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 minutes to an hour.
my check engine light is on and im getting codes 12, 21, 43. i just bought this car a month ago and i would like to fix these problems myself. any ideas on what the problems could be?
Thread Starter
the o2 sensor needs to be replaced... and depending on what year your car is, you could have one sensor, or 2. if its 96+ then you have 2 and you gotta figure out which one it is. or just replace both of them. and the misfiring thing can be fixed with a tuneup. replace your distributer cap and rotor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs, and you should be golden. i did this to my neon and it made a world of difference in how it ran/idled