Hi all. I recently purchased a 1998 Neon. I'm not much of a car guy, I've always just hopped in and gone and I'm coming from a stock Ford Ranger. Now, this car has had quite a bit of work done to it.

From what I can see
[ul][*]lowered - not sure if lowering springs were installed, cut, or heated[*]body kit[*]exhaust kit - looks like a header also[*]nice set of wheels
[/ul]
When I bought it, the guy told me that the front struts are shot. Not wanting to take his word for it how would I know if they are bad? Am I going to feel something in the ride? Is this why it bottoms out on slightly bumpy roads? I'm tired of beating on the front bumper.

I believe the purchase was a good one. I would just like to see at least a 1" raise. It sits way too low for my liking. How would I do this, locate OEM springs?

What do you think it would cost to raise at all 4 wheels, and front strut repair?

 

i have the stock springs off my 96 acr

 

What is an ACR ?

 

When the Neon was introduced in 1994, Chrysler decided for some fortunate reason to make a splash in SCCA racing and autocross. The Neon ACR was developed as a race-ready (just add rollcage), low cost machine, using as few special parts as possible. So that the first production run would wind up on the track, not the street, buyers were required to hold an SCCA membership. This original '1994-1/2' batch consisted of 182 SOHC-powered ACR sedans. Chrysler also sweetened the pot with substantial contingency money for ACR racers.
The original ACR was built on the Base Sedan, and the only factory option was the rear defroster. A/C and radio were not available, nor were the rest of the luxury or convenience options. In keeping with its mission, the ACR has never been available with an automatic transmission or antilock brakes. After the initial production run, the ACR package (also known as the Competition Group) joined the regular lineup, so A/C and radio became options. Non-SCCA folks were allowed to join the fun, as well.
ACRs have several distinguishing features. Foremost is the SDK (Competition) suspension with front and rear swaybars and very stiff struts, to bring handling up to racetrack strength. The steering ratio is quicker than standard, and brakes are four-wheel disc. In early 1995, ACR construction changed to include hubs 10mm thick (compared to the stock 8mm) to accommodate road racing stresses. The manual transmission has both a lower final drive ratio and a lower fifth gear for better acceleration. All ACRs get the oversized radiator from the air conditioned car.
All ACR Sedans have the SOHC engine; all Coupes get the DOHC. These engine choices have never varied throughout the life of the ACR, to avoid reclassification for SCCA road racing use.
Most ACRs were built on the Base chassis, to take advantage of the weight savings of minimal insulation or luxury options. The ACR Coupe started production in the '95 m/y using the Highline chassis, then changed to the Base Coupe for '96 and '97 m/ys. All '98 and the few '99 m/y ACRs (Sedan and Coupe) use the Highline chassis, since the Base car was discontinued. Outside, the ACR has the Sport front fascia with empty foglight holes. Side moldings were not available from the factory, but sometimes added at the dealer. The interior was originally Base or Highline style (depending on the chassis); in the '96 m/y, the ANC option added a leather-wrapped shifter and steering wheel, as well as the Sport seats (with better lateral support) and Flash upholstery. ANC is now the standard interior since the Base car was discontinued in the '98 m/y.
The ACR designation has come to be known as "American Club Racing". However, it was originally just the sales code and has no actual significance. The same is true of the ANC interior, which is popularly held to mean "American National Champion".

 

there just stock neon springs

 

What is the stock suspension height?

 

look at any stock neon, type it in google or soemthing im not exactly sure, actually my avatar is my neon at stock height

 

What kind of sound would I hear if I'm riding on a bad strut? When I hit slightly raised patches in the asphalt, I hear a "thud" coming from the passenger front wheel side. I was thinking it was the front bumper hitting it, but the patches aren't that high. Perhaps could still be, though.

Since the car is lowered, would an OEM strut work or do I have to find an aftermarket?

 

it could be your c ar bottoming out, or a strut. and yea OEM struts would work.

 

most of the time when a shock goes out they will leak all of the oil out of the top. So buy looking at it if it's covered in oil this could be an indication of a failing shock, that and the bottoming out .

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ride1.htm

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ab_sus...278108,00.html

OEM will work, but your better off using a stiffer shock so you dont bottom out