bolt tourqe specs
One mistake that's often made when changing the head gasket on these engines is not checking the flatness of the head and block. Check flatness with a straight edge and feeler gauges. There should be no more than 0.002" (0.05 mm) out-of-flat in any direction on the head or block surfaces. If the head and/or block are out of flat, one of both should be resurfaced to reduce the warpage. The head can't handle much milling because taking too much metal off the surface raises the compression ratio and alters OHC cam timing. This, in turn, may increase the risk of detonation and preignition, which will increase the risk of a repeat head gasket failure.
Also, pay close attention to the condition of the head itself. If the coolant passages are badly corroded or eroded, the head may have to be replaced, otherwise it may not seal properly against the head gasket. Also, check the combustion chambers and surfaces for cracks. A visual inspection alone is not good enough here. Use penetrating dye designed for aluminum castings. Many engine rebuilders who do these engines also pressure test the head to check for internal cracks and porosity leaks that might not show up with dye alone.
Before the head is reinstalled on the engine, make sure the head and block surfaces are clean and that all traces of the original gasket have been removed. Use a chemical gasket remover and flat scraper to clean the surfaces as needed. Although Chrysler says it's okay to use an abrasive disk to lightly buff off old gasket residue, most engine builders do not recommend this practice because it can also remove metal and create dips in the surface that can prevent the new head gasket from sealing.
Clean and inspect all the head bolt threads in the block. This engine uses torque-to-yield head bolts. Most experts recommend replacing the head bolts with new ones because the old ones stretch when they are tightened down, which increases the risk of breakage if they are reused. Lightly oil the threads on all the head bolts before they are installed. The four short head bolts go in the corners.
Use a torque wrench to tighten the headbolts in the following order:
[ol][*]Tighten all center bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft.-lbs.).[*]Tighten the four corner bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft.-lbs.).[*]Tighten all center bolts to 68 Nm (50 ft.-lbs.).[*]Tighten the four corner bolts to 47 Nm (35 ft.-lbs.).[*]Retighten all bolts a second time to the same specifications in step 4 to double-check torque.[*]Finish by tightening all bolts an additional 1/4 turn.[/ol]
Also, pay close attention to the condition of the head itself. If the coolant passages are badly corroded or eroded, the head may have to be replaced, otherwise it may not seal properly against the head gasket. Also, check the combustion chambers and surfaces for cracks. A visual inspection alone is not good enough here. Use penetrating dye designed for aluminum castings. Many engine rebuilders who do these engines also pressure test the head to check for internal cracks and porosity leaks that might not show up with dye alone.
Before the head is reinstalled on the engine, make sure the head and block surfaces are clean and that all traces of the original gasket have been removed. Use a chemical gasket remover and flat scraper to clean the surfaces as needed. Although Chrysler says it's okay to use an abrasive disk to lightly buff off old gasket residue, most engine builders do not recommend this practice because it can also remove metal and create dips in the surface that can prevent the new head gasket from sealing.
Clean and inspect all the head bolt threads in the block. This engine uses torque-to-yield head bolts. Most experts recommend replacing the head bolts with new ones because the old ones stretch when they are tightened down, which increases the risk of breakage if they are reused. Lightly oil the threads on all the head bolts before they are installed. The four short head bolts go in the corners.
Use a torque wrench to tighten the headbolts in the following order:
[ol][*]Tighten all center bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft.-lbs.).[*]Tighten the four corner bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft.-lbs.).[*]Tighten all center bolts to 68 Nm (50 ft.-lbs.).[*]Tighten the four corner bolts to 47 Nm (35 ft.-lbs.).[*]Retighten all bolts a second time to the same specifications in step 4 to double-check torque.[*]Finish by tightening all bolts an additional 1/4 turn.[/ol]
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TORQUE CHART 2.0L SOHC
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Camshaft Sensor Pick Up
Bolts 9.6 N·m (85 in. lbs.)
Camshaft Sprocket
Bolt 115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.)
Connecting Rod Cap
Bolts 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) Plus 1/4 Turn
Collar - Oil Pan to Transaxle
Step 1: Collar to Oil Pan Bolts 3 N·m (30 in. lbs.)
Step 2: Collar to Transaxle Bolts 108 N·m (80 ft. lbs.)
Step 3: Collar to Oil Pan Bolts 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap/Bedplate
M8 Bedplate Bolts 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.)
M11 Main Cap Bolts 81 N·m (60 ft. lbs.)
Crankshaft Damper
Bolt 142 N·m (105 ft. lbs.)
Cylinder Head
Bolts Refer To Cylinder Head Installation
Cylinder Head Cover
Bolts 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Drive Plate to Flywheel
Bolts 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.)
Engine Mount Bracket - Right
Bolts 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.)
Engine Mounting
Bolts Refer to Engine Mount Installation
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head
Bolts 23 N·m (200 in. lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield
Bolts 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Front Mount Torque Bracket
Bolts 33 N·m (24 ft. lbs.)
Front Powertrain Bending Strut
Long Bolts 101 N·m (75 ft. lbs.)
Short Bolt 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.)
Intake Manifold
Bolts 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Oil Filter Adapter
Fastener 80 N·m (60 ft. lbs.)
Oil Filter 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.)
Oil Pan
Bolts 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Drain Plug 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.)
Oil Pump Attaching
Bolts 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Cover Fastener 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Pick-up Tube Bolt 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Relief Valve Cap 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.)
TORQUE CHART 2.0L SOHC
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Camshaft Sensor Pick Up
Bolts 9.6 N·m (85 in. lbs.)
Camshaft Sprocket
Bolt 115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.)
Connecting Rod Cap
Bolts 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) Plus 1/4 Turn
Collar - Oil Pan to Transaxle
Step 1: Collar to Oil Pan Bolts 3 N·m (30 in. lbs.)
Step 2: Collar to Transaxle Bolts 108 N·m (80 ft. lbs.)
Step 3: Collar to Oil Pan Bolts 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap/Bedplate
M8 Bedplate Bolts 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.)
M11 Main Cap Bolts 81 N·m (60 ft. lbs.)
Crankshaft Damper
Bolt 142 N·m (105 ft. lbs.)
Cylinder Head
Bolts Refer To Cylinder Head Installation
Cylinder Head Cover
Bolts 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Drive Plate to Flywheel
Bolts 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.)
Engine Mount Bracket - Right
Bolts 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.)
Engine Mounting
Bolts Refer to Engine Mount Installation
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head
Bolts 23 N·m (200 in. lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield
Bolts 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Front Mount Torque Bracket
Bolts 33 N·m (24 ft. lbs.)
Front Powertrain Bending Strut
Long Bolts 101 N·m (75 ft. lbs.)
Short Bolt 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.)
Intake Manifold
Bolts 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Oil Filter Adapter
Fastener 80 N·m (60 ft. lbs.)
Oil Filter 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.)
Oil Pan
Bolts 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Drain Plug 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.)
Oil Pump Attaching
Bolts 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Cover Fastener 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Pick-up Tube Bolt 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Relief Valve Cap 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.)



