Please Help!!!
I have a 1995 neon SOHC, Manual with 213 000km's. I just bought the car last september and it's been a great car up untill I started getting this intermittant stalling or die'ing. At first it only stalled when I was taking off. It would start right back up again, and drivewith no problems. Then it started doing it when I would turn left. Right hand turns were fine. I thought it was something to do with the ingition coil or wires because it first did it when it was raining and very damp out. Therefor I changed the plugs, and wires. I left the ignition coil because it would fire up and run fine, I've never heard of a coil being intermittant. Anyhow I disconnected it and tested the primary and secondary and there' all in range at cold temperature. Never tested Hot. Anyhow, the stalling stoped forawhile and then started up again. It was always when I would put it under load in forward drive. In Reverse I could drive all day.lol. So I started leaning towards fuel, so I changed the fuel filter, and that helped for a week. Then It got really bad, to the point where I couldn't drive5 feet without it stalling. Then i noticed the fuel pump wasn't priming when I turned the key on. So I thought it was the fuel pump because I've been known to drive on less than a quarter tank because of the price of gas. But I didn't want to change the pump because of the price and after the car sat for 5-10min the pump would start working again. Needless to say I ended finding a new pump for $219.00, I was gonna change it myself but It was -20 out and that's out of the question. So I paid a mechanic to do it. Well it didn't fix the problem. So I went back to my Haynes Manual and started reading about M.A.P.,O2,CAM,CRANK,COOLANT,TPS, well I tested about as much as I could from the book, and everything is fine or withing spec. Except for the O2 which I have a code when I do the ON OFF ON OFF ON...but the check engine light is not on, the code is stored from previous and asume it cleared itself. But when the check engine light does come on which it has 4 time since I've had the car and it's the same codes 12 - 21 - 55. So that nothing really...battery cycle thing which never goes away, O2 sensor, and end of codes. Right? So anyhow by asking around and getting familiarizedwith these sensors, I'm leaning towards the crank and cam sensors. I unpluged the m.a.p. sensor and tested it, it was in range. Tried starting the car with it out and it started and then stalled out in 5 seconds. It gave me a code, so i pluged it back in and started up the car. I shut the car off, disconnected battery and reconnected it. Started up the car, and light was off. Checked for codes and it was gone. But I still have that pesky O2 sensor code that I've been told will not cause the car to stall. So I checked the Coolant and TPS sensor conectors and all surprizingly clean, still have that clear jelly stuff inside the holes. So i'm i'm certain it's not these things because I'm not getting a code for them (unless someone says different). So I went ahead a found a new crank sensor for $44.00 not bad. And a Cam sensor for $27.00. I have someone who gets me dealer or close to dealer prices. I get under the car and start taking out the one bolt for the crank sensor. Wow that was easy, this is going so good...NOT!!! The dam thing would twist side to side, but would not come out. Now we all know how tight of an area this is, so i better position myself, cause by looking at the new one there's a groove at the end of the sensor which I'm thinking seeds it nice and thight insdie the block. Well the F***'ING thing broke off. Now what, I'm screwed with a car that won't run at all now. By looking at it, I think I could screw a self tapping screw into it and try pulling it out with pliers. Has anyone done this, and know of a way to get it out. I googled broken crankshaft sensor, and someone with a pontiac 6000 had the same problem and they answer to his question was to take the oil pan off and get it out that way. So my other question is since I have never seen and engine with the oil pan off. If I do this method, will I see the sensor coming through the wall easily and what should do and be careful of while getting in out. Another thing, I gather since the pan is coming off, I will have to get a new gasket for it? Wouldn't hurt I guess. My last question is If and after I successfully change the cam and crank sensors, and it doesn't fix the problem...what else could it be. Could the TPS sensor be bad and not showing a code. I've heard of Crank sensors doing this because when they are cold they work, and you have to take it completley out and test it in hot water. Because I'm not getting any codes for any of my sensors but the O2, could it all in all be the PCM.[]? I'm so tempted to buy a $500 neon and strip all the parts cause tring to fig. this out without any codes. I went back to my Ignition coil and test the spark with the car running and pulling out the wire and placing it on the valve cover and all good. I changed the spark plugs again, and checked the gap. Still don't know what else it could be, injectors and o.k...could it be the O2 playing tricks on my PCM...HMMM...I don't know what to do anymore, I have to fix this crank sensor problem first and hopefully it was the problem. Until then I dont' know. Please help if you can.

 

I'd lean towards your crank sensor. Gotta get it out first though. It is tough to pull out, but it does pull straight out.

 

Thanx bud, notice u reply alot. I'm going to tryto screw a self tapping screw into it and try pull it out. because it's not seized in there, i can turn it with the little plastic that is left on the sensor. And it comes out 1mm but I just don't have enough to grab onto to pull it out.

 

Oh ya I forgot to mention, yesterday when the car was running I notice a high pitch whine, like as if your ears are ringing. and I traced to to the PCM. Is that a bad sign? It's almost like a capacitor is whining, and stops after it's done discharging.

 

I have heard some PCM's do that, but have never experienced it myself.

 

the whinning sound is normal....its nothing at all to worry about..
after you turn the car off, you should hear the buzzing sounds for about 15-20 seconds. then it will stop..

the crank sensor is made of a real soft plastic. i have broken off many of them in the past. i just screw a regular drywall screw into whats left and then use a prybar to pull it out...works every time..

 

COOLIO, Thanx for the info, this is my first forum and I'm liking how fast I'm getting replies. It's better then calling a machanic or the dealer.lol. They just say bring it in and will screw you in the back as you watch us do absolutly not to fix the problem or findit. I'm glad I can just do what you said, cause I'm in my driveway and I didn't want to have to go through the oil pan, I have enough problems, don't need to be braking oil pan bolts.

 

Well, welcome to the boards and ask away. Read the 1st Gen FAQ's for some more info.
https://dodgeforum.com/m_530310/tm.htm

 

O.k new problems. I tried screwing a screw into the crank sensor and it went in but the plastic or whatever it's made of wouldn't hold the screw in when I tried pulling it out. So I went to a bigger screw and same thing. So i Put a lag bolt in and same thing. now it's a mess with a big hole in the sensor. So ya, i guess the next move is too take the oil pan off, but that would be too easy. In order to take the oil pan out I have to take the front engine mount off. I tried jacking the engine up to relieve pressure on the bolts holding the bracket, but they wont come loose, and I don't think I can even access them all. Anyone can help, please write back A.S.A.P. as I'm working on it as we speak.

 

Find a way to grab onto the sensor with pliers or get someone with smaller hands. It comes out just a hair then stops because the o-ring that seals it stops it. As long as you have the bolt out, it will pull straight out.