Ok guys listen I got the most compleat 2.4 swap how to on the internet in the following post. IT IS IN NO WAY COMPLEAT YET JUST NEED TO SPACE EVERYTHING CORRECTLY SEENING I WROTE IT IN MICROSOFT WORD. SO PLEASE CHILL OUT. I NEED TO DO THIS TO MAKE IT LOOK GOOD ON THE FORUM AND NOT BE SPACED OUT ALL WEIRD.

IT WILL BE DONE WHEN I SAY IT'S DONE. IT WILL BE STICKYIED. BUT FOR NOW CHILL OUT.

IF YOU SEE ANY OBVIOUS ERRORS LET ME KNOW. IF YOU SEE SPELLING ERRORS LET ME KNOW. I DID MOST OF THIS LAST NIGHT BETWEEN MIDNIGHT AND 5AM.

FOR THE MOST RECENT REVISION OF THE HOW TO CLICK ON FOLLOWING LINK... https://dodgeforum.com/m_1289520/tm.htm

 

Disclaimer: I will not be held responsible for any and all injury, death, break down, problem, or any action that may have caused engine failure due to following these steps.

First off I would like to say that this swap can be as easy or hard as you make it. Lets get real, pulling a motor is not fun, I recruited a friend to stand around just so I could cuss at him. If you do not have the tools to do the job don’t even think about it there are a few tools that you will need that most people do not have. Also if you do not have a torque wrench, have no clue what a torque wrench is, or do not know how to use one. DO NOT DO THIS SWAP. Expect for this swap to take anywhere from 6 hours for the elite to 15+ hours for someone that has never done a swap before. The swap took Josh and I about 20 hours. Expect to run into some problems, remember this motor was never designed to go into a Neon. Also expect to have some extra cash on hand if any problems do arise.

This is close to a step by step How to as I can make and is a work in process, I have pulled information from personal experience and many other sources on the internet including but not limited to the org, 1gn. com and most of all Russ AKA PurpleNeon on the org, he is a weath of info and knows more about the 2.4 swap then anyone I know including info that you dont want to know. In all attempts I have tried to use my own words when describing something I have researched on. If for any reason a part is unclear or does not make sense please PM me and I will try to explain it and try to add it orword it in the how to.

With that said the How To: directly explains how to swap a Chrysler 2.4 N/A motor into a 95-99 Dodge/Plymouth Neon. Also please use fsm, chiltons, or other service manual for proper torqueing patterns and torque requirements.

I will include information and pricing sections at the bottom further explaining things like using SRT-4 internals and turboing a 2.4. At a later date.

PARTS LIST

1. 2.4 liter DOHC from a 1995 – 2002 Chrysler made vehicle.
The list of vehicles that this motor is found in is:
[*]1995 – 2000 Stratus, Breeze or cirrus
[*]1996 – 2000 Voyager and Caravan
[*]2001 + PT Cruiser, Stratus and Sebring.

Please note: All 2.4 motors that were made 2001+ have a different manifold mounting set up, port design on the head, different oiling system and different oil filter locations. This how to: embraces 1995-2000 2.4 motors. If you choose to use a 2001+ motor you will be on your own.

You can find 2.4 motors in various places for various prices. Some have claimed to be able to get a 2.4 for 50 bucks from certain junkyards that do specials on the weekends if you can carry it over 10 feet. You can find them in most junkyards for 300 to 1000 bucks. You can also find them on e-bay from various vendors; some will even come with warranties.

2.2.0 Transmission from a Neon.
You can use any of the three common Neon transmissions.
[*]The 3.55 will give you better gas mileage, and will help you off the line a bit better.
[*]The 3.94 will allow you to stay in gear a bit longer and make better use of the increase in tq.
[*]The 3 speed automatic found in Neon’s will work just fine, it seems to crave the extra tq.

3. 2.0 DOHC intake manifold.
You will need to use the 2.0 intake manifold due to clearance issues with the 2.4 intake manifold. The 2.0 intake manifold will also give you a bit more of high end due to the 2.4 intake manifold being made for low end torque to get the mid-sized cars like the Stratus up and going.

4. 2.0 DOHC Exhaust Manifold.
The stock 2.0 DOHC manifold will work fine however if you want to use an aftermarket manifold its up to you, longer is better.

5. 2.0 DOHC Coolant hard lines.
You will need to use these due to the 2.4 and SOHC will rub on the bottom of the intake manifold and cause a leak eventually.

6. 2.0 DOHC PCM
You must use a PCM from a Neon!!! You must use the correct PCM for your transmission. You may also use any of the aftermarket PCM’s, like the Mopar Performance or AFX.

7. 2.0 DOHC wiring harness.
You should use a wiring harness from the same year as your car.
[*]If you own a 95 you must use a 95
[*]If you own a 96 you must use a 96
[*]If you own a 97-99 you must use a 97-99
[*]If you own an automatic transmission you must use a wiring harness from your year and transmission type.

You can use a SOHC wiring harness however you will have to you need to change the cam positioning sensor plug, and extend the coolant temp sensor plug, it needs to be long enough to reach passenger front side of the head.

8. 2.0 Underdrive pulley.
Some 2.4’s are able to use the stock 2.0 crankshaft pulleys however most will hit the passenger side frame rail. So just get an underdrive pulley and reap the extra benefits.

9. PT Cruiser water outlet neck. And o-ring.
The PT water neck will better position the lower radiator hose so it does not pinch the hose. It also better positions the coolant hardlines.

Part numbers for these are:
PT Cruiser water outlet neck 4884291AA
PT cruiser water outlet neck O-Ring 6503180

10. PT cruiser alternator brackets.
Part numbers 4668445AA, 4891533-AA
This will allow you to mount your 2.0 alternator to the 2.4 block. You must use the 2.0 alternator.

11. 2.4 Stratus motor mount.
This is the passenger side motor mount from a Stratus.



12. 2.0 to 2.4 side motor mount adapter.
Since the 2.4 is an inch taller then the 2.0 and the 2.4 bracket will not hook up to the Neon side mount you will need an adapter. You can find them at modernperformance.com and a few other guys on the internet that make custom adapters.



13. 24lbs injectors OR Second gen neon, 58psi fuel pressure regulator.
You will have to use one or the other, not both. It is easier to use 24lb injectors and more advisable.
You can use Accell 24lb injectors from modernperformance.com or you can also use 05+ ford mustangGTinjectors witch will run you about 40 bucks.

14. DOHC hood.
If you are swapping from a SOHC to a 2.4 your hood will not fit. You must use a stock DOHC hood or DOHCstock style made of fiberglass or carbon fiber. You can alsouse a CNNP Racing Cowl Hood. You may also have to cut the bracing out of the bottom of the DOHC hood for clearance in certain installs.

15. EGR block off kit.
The 2.4 EGR system will work with some modification however, it will just be easier to get an EGR block off kit. You will have a cleaner engine that way. You may throw a CEL light by doing this. Neongoodies.com sells an EGR block off kit that comes with a resister that will prevent the CEL light from coming on. Lorenzo also sells the resisters.

OTHER THINGS YOU MAY WANT TO PICK UP.
New clutch
New thermostat
New timing belt
New timing belt tentioner and tentioner pulley
New oil pump. You can use the srt-4 pump witch flows more oil but you will also need the oil pan and oil pickup tube.
New water pump
Booger bushings
Motor mount inserts
Semi-solid – solid bobble strut
2001 - 2002 PT Cruiser Power Steering bracket.
2.0 DOHC cams. The 2.4 cams along with the intake manifold were designed for low end torque to get the mid-sized cars up and going easier. 2.0 cams will edge out 2.4 cams for power. However if you plan on turboing your 2.4 leave the 2.4 cams. If you do plan on replacing the cams don’t forget the cam bearings.

2.0 REMOVAL

1. Remove Battery, and battery tray. Should always be done first. Set PDC up and out of the way.

2. Jack car up and place on jack stands, does not have to be too high just high enough to get wheels off the ground. Remember to chuck rear wheels, and set e-brake.

3. Drain all fluids. IE… Oil, Coolant, and transmission oil. Remember to replace drain plugs and close drain **** on radiator. Please recycle used oil and fluids appropriately…

4. If your car is equipped with a bobble strut unbolt it from the K-Frame while you’re still under the car.

5. While fluids are draining, remove front wheels.

6. Remove cotter pin, along with nut cover, spring washer. (DO NOT reuse cotter pin.)

7. Have a buddy get into car and hold brakes while you use a 32mm Axel nut socket to remove the axel nut… This will have to be done with air tools or a breaker bar…

8. Remove clevis bolt from knuckle. This is annoying because one side is 15mm and the other is 18mm. Check for wear, if it shows any wear get rid of it.

9. Unbolt end of Tie-Rod from steering knuckle.

10. Insert long pry rod into k-frame and push down on the lower control arm until ball joint pops out of the steering knuckle. This may take some bouncing on the pry bar, just be careful.

11. At this point you should be able to move the knuckle around until you can get the axel out of the steering knuckle, have a friend hold the one and do not allow axel end to hit anything or hang.

12. Slide under car and pop axel out of transmission using a large flat blade screwdriver or other prying device. Do not allow this end to hang or knock into anything or get contaminated with dirt or grease. I would suggest wrapping a t-shirt around the axel stubs. Set axels aside as you will not be needing them for a while.

13. If you would like, you can now pop the ball joint back into the steering knuckle and loosely put the clevis bolt back in and put tires back on vehicle. This comes in handy if you are using a chain lift or will need to move car while the motor is out. Completely up to you. It will also allow you to drop the car back down and if you are short like me will be easier to reach things in the engine bay.

14. Remove hood. 4 bolts, 10mm

15. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses. If your car is equipped with an auto transmission also disconnect the two coolant lines that lead to radiator.

16. Remove radiator fans.

17. Remove radiator. Set somewhere safe (Josh and I learned this the hard way, twice.)

18. Disconnect wires from starter.

19. Remove PCM. Set somewhere safe and away from immediate work area.

20. Follow PCM harness, you will fine two plugs a white and black one. One will lead to the motor the other to the front clip wiring harness, disconnect both at this time.

21. Disconnect transmission cables from transmission. Use two flat blade screwdrivers to carefully pry upward using equal amount of force on both sides. (DO NOT damage the bushings if you do not plan on replacing with either $140 dollar shifter cables or booger bushings)

22. Disconnect heater hoses. Some coolant will still remain.

23. Disconnect throttle body linkage. If you own an ATX then disconnect the auto-kick down cable at this time as well, along with the cruise control cable and servo.

24. Disconnect clutch cable if you own a manual transmission.

25. Disconnect vacuum hard-line from Throttle body that goes in between intake manifold and leads to evap purge solenoid. Remove evap purge solenoid as well at this time it is mounted on the passenger side motor mount. No need to remove hard-line now if you plan on reusing it, it may snap.

26. Remove hose leading from thermostat housing to over flow bottle.

27. Properly bleed fuel system, by removing gas cap and using a nail or screwdriver to push in shroder valve on fuel rail. Caution may squirt fuel, use towel or eye protection.

28. Remove fuel line from fuel rail and upper hard fuel line located on the firewall. Push in on white parts of clips and slide off.

29. Disconnect power steering reservoir from back of head.

30. Disconnect power steering pump from front of motor. Both the pump and reservoir can now be moved to back corner of engine bay hanging over passenger fender.

31. Disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust at the collector/doughnut. If you own an aftermarket header any longer then the pacesetter you will want to remove it from the back of the head at this time.

32. Bolt chain to back of block.

33. Remove front motor mount and motor mount bracket from motor and radiator support for clearance.

34. If your car is equipped with A/C unbolt it and use a metal hanger to hang it from the lower radiator support. DO NOT let A/C pump hang from hoses.

35. Loop other side of motor chain threw middle two intake manifold runners and stick bolt threw chain.

36. Connect hoist to engine chain and slightly tighten.

37. Unbolt passenger side and transmission motor mount bolts. The motor is now free, so be careful.

38. Carefully remove motor you will need to lower motor to clear the transmission mount bracket. Removing the transmission mount bracket from transmission will further help getting the motor out. Twist and tilt motor so that the transmission is facing down a bit to get it completely out.

39. Lower motor to the ground, allowing it to stand on the oil pan.

PARTS NEEDED FROM 2.0

Now that we have the motor out and sitting on the ground, we need a few parts off of it.

If you just pulled a 2.0 DOHC you will need to remove the:
1. Intake manifold
2. Exhaust manifold
3. Starter
4. Coolant hard lines
5. Wiring harness
6. Alternator
7. Thermostat housing
8. Knock sensor

If you just pulled a 2.0 SOHC you will need to remove the starter and alternator. (You can use the wiring harness but you will have to do further wiring mods to make it work.) Even if you do not plan on using the SOHC wiring harness I would suggest removing it, you may need the wiring plugs later in the swap.


REMOVAL OF TRANSMISSION FROM 2.0

Now that you have all the parts off the 2.0 that you will need It’s time to crack the transmission. Below is a list of how to remove the 3 different types of transmissions and what you will need from each.

REMEMBER YOU SHOULD ALWAYS USE A NEW CLUTCH WITH THIS SWAP DUE TO DIFFERENT POWER LEVELS IN THE TWO MOTORS.

MODULAR CLUTCH
If you have a modular clutch you will have to remove the inspection plate on the transmission to gain access to the 4 clutch to drive plate bolts (DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT LOSE THESE BOLTS) after removing all 4 remove all bolts holding the transmission to the motor and separate motor from transmission. You will further need the drive plate and drive plate bolts, and transmission shield, that is bolted to the block with one 10mm bolt.

NON-MODULAR CLUTCH
If you have the non-modular clutch just remove all the bolts holding the transmission to the block and separate. You then will have to remove the flexplate, clutch then the flywheel to gain access to the transmission shield.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSON
If you own an automatic transmission you will have to once again remove the inspection plate from the bottom of the transmission and remove the 4 torque converter to drive plate bolts. (DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT LOSE THESE BOLTS) After that remove the bolts that hold the transmission to the block and separate transmission from block. You will further need the drive plate and transmission shield.

Now would be the best time to get the 2.4 block on a motor stand.
Also it would be a good time to completely strip the 2.4 down to the bear block.

YOU MUST ALSO REMOVE THE 2.4 HARMONIC BALANCER USING THE CORRECT 3 JAW PULLER.

REMOVING THE 2.4 BALANCE SHAFTS



let’s talk about the 2.4 balance shafts.

As with the Chrysler 2.0 the 2.4 is internally balanced meaning there is no need for a harmonic balancer or any other type of balancer. However Chrysler being the intorvators they are decided to put what they called balance shafts in the 2.4. I’m telling you now YOU DO NOT NEED THEM, and there robbing power from your new motor, due to parasitic loss. It’s your choice weather to remove them or not, however most that are serious and want some decent power remove them.

So you ask how I remove the 2.4’s balance shafts.

1. If you have the motor on a motor stand flip it around, oil pan up. If you do not have a motor stand you can get creative with the engine hoist. And do it from below.

2. Remove oil pan.

3. Remove oil pick up. DO NOT LOSE THE O-RING.

4. Start off buy cutting the chain, using what ever you have handy, I used a Dremal tool with a cut off wheel.

Now you have 2 options at this point. You can leave it how it is and you will regain the power lost by the chain slowing the crank down or if you’re serious about power you can do a few more steps and completely remove the balance shafts and lose some weight. HOWEVER YOU WILL HAVE TO SPEND 25 MORE CENTS AT ACE’S IF YOU DO DECIDE TO REMOVE THEM COMPLETELY. If you just want to regain the power and not remove them completely stop here.

5. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the balance shafts in place there long, so just keep cranking they will come out. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REPLACE THESE BOLTS AND ARE TO LONG IF YOU TRY.

6. Go to the hardware store and get a 1/4-20 set screw I used a 3/8 inch length.

7. See picture: where the red circle is use Allen wrench to slowly insert set screw.

NOTE: THIS HOLE IS NOT TAPPED, THE SET SCREW IS THE PERFECT SIZE TO TAP THIS HOLE. IT WILL TAKE SOME TIME AND A STEADY HAND. GO VERY SLOWLY AND IF IT SEEMS LIKE YOU CANT GET ANY FURTHER BACK OUT A HAIR AND TRY AGAIN, I HAD TO USE A LONG 6MM SOCKET TO HELP TURN THE ALLEN WRENCH TO KEEP IT GOING.



8. After getting setscrew in place remove and use pipe cleaner to reach up and remove any metal filings that may have came off.

9. Use plenty of red loc-tight to ensure set screw stays in place.

10. Replace oil pick up tube (don’t forget that o-ring)

11. Install new oil pan gasket or reuse if it looks good.

12. Re-install oil pan using correct torqeing procedure.

13. Flip motor back around. (Make sure you lock your stand in place if using a motor stand.

You have now removed the balance shafts have a beer.


INSTALLING CAMS, WATER PUMP, OIL PUMP, TIMING BELT AND TENTIONERS

You should at the very least install a new water pump, timing belt and timing belt tensioner. Remember to properly torque all bolts to there proper tension.

1. Start off by removing the timing belt cover.

2. IMPORTANT: ROTATE MOTOR TILL MOTOR IS IN TIME AND BOTH CRANK AND CAM TIMING MARKS LINE UP.

3. Take off timing belt by loosening tensioner wheel.

4. Remove idler pulley.

5. Remove cam pulleys.

6. Take back timing belt cover off.

7. Remove water pump and replace with new pump.

8. Remove timing belt tensioner and replace with new one.

9. Remove oil pump and replace with new.

Ok while the timing belt is off you will now have to choose between 2.0 cams and the stock 2.4 cams.
2.4 cams are designed for low end torque... as are their intakes. The 2.0 cams edge out the 2.4 cams for power. If you have 2.0 cams, run them. They were only profiled like this to get the heavier mid-sized family cars like the stratus going. If you plan on swapping to 2.0 cams or any after market cams follow these instructions.

1. Take off valve cover. Go hose it off with degreaser if you like.

2. Useyour service manualto properly remove cam caps. REMOVING THEM IN ANYOTHER ORDER COULD WARP CAMS AND CAM JOURNALS. TAKE NOTE OF ARROWS ON CAM CAPS AND LAY THEM ON A TOWEL IN ORDER AND FACING SAME DIRECTION THAT YOU TOOK THEM OUT TO INDEX HOW THEY GO BACK IN THE HEAD.

3. CAREFULLY LIFT CAMS STRAIGHT UP AND OUT OF THE HEAD.

4. Clean and inspect 2.0 cams use brake clean, and lint free cloth.

5. Using plenty of new motor oil lube all cam journals and lobes.

6. Install new cam bearings on to 2.0 cams.

7. Lower cams into place. BE VERY CAREFUL AND GENTAL. MAKE SURE TIMING HOLES FACE UP, THEY ARE ABOUT 6 INCHES AFTER THE CAM GEARS PAST THE FIRST SET OF LOBES.

8. Replace cam caps in proper direction and toruqeing sequence as you removed them.

9. Using black perminete marker, draw a line on from the top of the cam magnet the whole width of the cam magnet and then a bit on to the cam. This will be your reference point when you turn the cam magnet 90 degrees.

10. Remove the cam magnet.

11. Using a dremel with a cut off wheel, completely cut off the two locating nipples on the back of the cam magnet.

12. Put blue loc-tight on the cam magnet bolt.

13. Re-aline cam magnet using the lines that you drew in step 9.

14. Rotate cam magnet 90 degrees in a clockwise direction.

15. Tighten cam magnet bolt. Remember you are tightening plastic to metal. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, IT WILL SNAP THE MAGNET. Get it hand tight then another little turn to get it snug.

16. Re-install valve cover, preferably using new gasket.

IF YOU DID NOT USE THE 2.0 DOHC CAMS RESUME INSTRUTIONS HERE…

17. Re-install back timing belt cover.

18. Re-install cam gears.

19. Re-install new timing belt idler pulley.

20. Re-install timing belt. Follow these instructions.

INSTALLING 2.4 INTO CAR


POWER STEERING[*]Use the PT power steering bracket; witch will bolt to the 2.4 just fine however the power steering pump will sit 1/2 inch in. You will have to make a spacer that will move the pump 1/2 inch, some people use washers some get spacers machined. Now the PT bracket will not allow for adjustment so you will have to slot the two mounting holes so you will have adjustment.

2001-2002 PT Crusier power steering bracket 4668468AA $7.09

Heres what it looks like after it has been slotted. And then pump installed to bracket.
[align=left]Note that the bottom pic is of a slotted srt-4 bracket with a power steering pump attached. The above pic is of a 01-02 PT bracket witch allows more room for adjustment. But you get the idea.[/align]

[align=left][/align][*]Buy a kit from SuperD, which is custom made to work, however his kit is 150 bucks. But it comes with a custom side motor mount adapter, power steering bracket, ac bracket that has been modified, and a pre-cut front motor mount.
[align=left][/align][*]ModernPerformance is also in the development stages of making a power steering bracket.[*]Some people make custom brackets like seen below.


[align=left]
After figuring out how you’re going to mount the pump, re-install the reservoir to the back of the head.

31. Install accessory belts.[/align][align=left]
32. Install battery tray. And snap PDC back onto the battery tray.[/align][*][align=left][/align][*][align=left]FINISHING UP[/align][*][align=left][/align][*][align=left][font=calibri][size=3]Ok now that the motor is all wired and complete its time to re-install the axels. Depending on whether or not you decided to put the car back down on its wheels, installing the axels will be a bit different. How ever I will assume if you were able to get the car back together and sat it on its wheels, you will be able to get it back. Don’t forget to swap out the axel seals while you are at it. Also do not forget to use a new cotter pin. Once the axels are in and you have the wheels back on the car, you will need to refill the transmission. If you own a man

 

whats a torque wrench? heh heh Jk but thats a hell of a lot of reading and its very good.

 

rev. 1 compleate...

thanks garrett I want it to be as comprehensive as possable.

 

ok just testing...

blah blah blah

 

wow thats great may help me in the future....but why no 2.4L srt4 motor on the parts list?

 

I will include more at the bottom concerning the srt-4 swap and also the 2.4 with srt-internals witch is a better choice then the stright srt swap... thanks... going to revise even more just give me a couple days to fully compleate.

 

ok 99 neon theres some srt-4 info...lol its on the bottom.

revision 1.3 done
added some underlining and coloring and spaced some things out
added srt-4 info at bottom.
fixed hood info.
added a bit here and there.

 

dam bro you are hardcore...good job

 

thanks this page is just my safe copy due to the webpage not likeing huge huge post's. sometimes when i go to copy tons of info from microsoft word it does odd things...

so to see the most updated revision of this how to go to link below...
https://dodgeforum.com/m_1289520/tm.htm