gotcha - so we'll stick with 10.5:1 or standard. im cleaning out my intake manifold now. then im gonna take a dremel to a few spots. im a little worried about some deterioration between my valves on the head. ill try to get pics up. i cant find my camera[8D]

 

would it be cheaper to deck the block? the car runs on 93 octane and i only get gas from bp's that use ammaco fuels. im really particular about gas. my best friend used to work in a machine shop - he doesnt anymore. im gonna try this place

http://www.cresapmachine.com/index.htm

and see how their prices are. hopefully i can get this thing cleaned up. no if only i can figure out how to get my block out w/out a lift.

 

if you have a garage and it has good support beams on the cieling you should be able to drill a hole threw it (i use 1 1/2 inch) and loop a chain threw it throw a good bolt threw the chain so it makes a circle... then I bought my chain lift from checker auto parts for 20 bucks... just clip the chain lift to the chain you mounted to the ceiling, and have another lenth of chain bolted to the block... clip the chain lift to the motor chain you attached and pull the chain on the chain lift... its really easy doesetn requier any effort other then to lightly pull the chain...

If you would like to see a pic of how i set up my chain lift let me know ill run out and set it up really fast and snap a few shoots... it would only take me 5 mins so dont hessitate to ask...

 

yeah, your going to need to use a ridge reamer before you install the new pistons and rings, it says to use it before so its easyer to remove the pistons.

this link shows a similar situation
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t.../photo_15.html

 

$10 per cylinder - honing
$22.50 per cylinder - overbore

or "per hole" as the man so elegantly put it.

might as well go .020 over right?

 

have them check the clearances first... no need to pay more when your stock bore is still good... and thats peanuting expensive...

oh and back to the whole decking the block insead of the head...
you may need to do both... however it would be wiser to deck the head... the head is aluminum and is a softer metal then the block so there for its easyer to warp... catch my drift...

 

yeah, its def. more than $4 that u pay. theyre one of the only shops around tho - probably why its so much. unfortunately im workin on my car in a gravel/grassy parking lot in town across from my house. so i still have to figure out what do to get the block out, then transporting it. if i cant figure it out i guess ill get a cylinder hone and just usea power drill. that would put the cross hatch back in the block if i got stuck in a tight spot wouldnt it? im smoothing out my intake manifold a little bit now, then im gonna coat it with black engine enamel. i was looking at vitors spacers. $100 w/ tb spacer looks like the cheapest intake manifold mod ive seen.

hopefully i can get my block sorted out. im starting to get mad that i cant find my camera so i can post pics.

 

anyone know where i can get the big hard vacuum line that goes from my manifold to my brake booster? mine looks pretty corroded.

 

just follow the FSM on that, it says something like a 50 - 60 degree cross hatch (page 9-3)

 

right on the money - 50 to 60 degrees - any reccomendations on what fluid to use while i do this?