Well, new prob.

Went to get a new quartermile time this morning, long story short, one of the cables (side to side motion) was damaged and i didnt know it, and it didnt snap all the way but i have about 4 strands of steel holding it together now, it stretched and snapped a bunch of the strands when i shifted from 3 to 4, and instead i went to 2nd, revved to about 9300 rpm, scared the crap out of me cause i thought i was gonna suck a valve with that much vacuum

well, the car drives fine, no noises or loss of power or anything else, but the charging system light on the dash is on

i used a voltmeter at the battery, 12 volts when car is off, 12 when its on, 12 when its at 4000 rpm

however right as i blip the throttle the needle drops to 9 and then goes right back to 12, and right as i let off the throttle it drops to 9 then goes right back to 12

just wanting to make sure that this sounds a failed alternator, and not the regulator, i almost wish it was the regulator cause that would give the excuse to get a mpp computer

i just dont get why that would cause the alternator to fail, since my udp rotates the alternator at 2/3 the rate of the stock crank pulley, which means even at 9300 rpm with my udp, the alternator was only turning at the speed that it would be at 6200 rpmwith the stock crank pulley

sorry so long, but anyone have any ideas?

 

I just want to know how the hell you got your car to 9300rpm???

 

i was at 6600 rpm in third, and when the cable stretched, my hand jerked it into 2nd because it just wasnt something i expected to feel, car jumped up to 9300 before i got the clutch back in, scared the crap out of me cause ive read even the most built neon motors top out at about 8000

so what do you think, sound like the alternators out?

 

I'm not trying to be a *** but your redline is only at 6500rpm... you need ms or the mp pcm or afx pcm to go any higher... and the dohc afx race will only take a dohc to 8200... however the only way to truthfully get to 9300 rpm would be to get MS....

And yes your alternator is shot or the fuse is shot one of the two...

 

i thought it was at 6750 on a stickshift

i know i cant actually rev it to 9300 with the gas pedal, but if you downshift from 3rd when its at redline to second and let the clutch out, it will instantly jump way over the computer limited redline, because the transmission is forcing it to,computer controlled redline only works under acceleration, if the gas is off and you downshift into too low ofa gear, it will force the engine higher then what the computer will let it go while accelerating

i dont have my manual with me, but where would the fuse be, i still dont see it overcharging to the point of blowing a fuse with how far under-driven the alt is, but its worth a shot before i drop money on an alternator, i planned on pulling the alt tomorrow morning and letting pep-boys test it while im at work but a fuse would save a lot of time

alt is underdriven to the point that it really barely makes enough to run the engine and the lights at idle, when i turn on the lights you can hear the fuel pump slow down considerably

 

valve float anyone? lol

 

haha ya thats what scared the crap out of me, runs fine tho now, just not charging

took the alternator into pepboys to have it tested before i bought a new one, they said it reads fine, took it to another one and they said the same thing

the wires are all ok, and after looking at the manual, theres nothing about a fuse anywhere in the charging system, just the regulator, which is part of the computer, which is unservicable

so, it looks like a new computer, looks like i need to call modern

anyone think of anything else it could be? according to the manual its just alternator, wires, belt and regulator, and i dont want to take it to dodge just to find out for sure if the regulator is bad

 

There is another thing...

its the field switching circuit.. and its in the alternator... however there is a code for it and it would throw right away if it was bad...

 

ya, no engine codes, just the battery light

gonna pull the wire from the alt to starter and check, and if not thats the last option before a computer

 

my battery light is allways on too... but im getting 14.X volts at idle proving that it does work... I think that it may just be that the underdrive is so great that the computer thinks theres something wrong...